Mounting Front Driving Lights - Stock Bumper (2 Viewers)

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Driverwish Led Light Bar Mounting Bracket Front License Plate Frame Bracket License Plate Mounting Bracket Holder for Off-Road Lights LED Work Lamps Lighting Bars (ZJ01-Black) Amazon product ASIN B07X9B48V8

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Bumping this to see if anyone has come up with anything else...
A few people have put the rigid light bar style behind the lower grille.. but I was just thinking about this the other day. I'd like to run some round driving lights and don't plan on a bumper, and haven't seen a bolt-on light bar style that I like.

As for the replacement grille.. won't work with my 13 and the radar cruise, unfortunately.
 
Hi all.

I use the capabilites of the LC200 on dirt roads in winter conditions that turn into muck roads, but do not run any trails. Although all the replacement bumpers look way cool, I don't think I will be going that far with any mods as at the end of the day, this is the family transport rig in the fleet.

But, I would like to mount some big round auxilliary driving lights on the front as some of the roads we are on in the dead of a winter night are super dark.

Has anyone figured out how to mount auxilliary lights on the LC200 without going through the step of a new front bumper or bull bar?

Pics and/or instructions would be greatly appreciated.
Not on but in the bumper.
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Hi all.

I use the capabilites of the LC200 on dirt roads in winter conditions that turn into muck roads, but do not run any trails. Although all the replacement bumpers look way cool, I don't think I will be going that far with any mods as at the end of the day, this is the family transport rig in the fleet.

But, I would like to mount some big round auxilliary driving lights on the front as some of the roads we are on in the dead of a winter night are super dark.

Has anyone figured out how to mount auxilliary lights on the LC200 without going through the step of a new front bumper or bull bar?

Pics and/or instructions would be greatly appreciated.
This is a nice solution
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Cross posting perhaps relevant info here.

One thing that can improve off-road lighting is to hack the stock fog-light / high beam logic. Stock only allows max 2-pairs of lights on at any point per DOT requirements. Hacking the logic allows full 3-pairs of lights so headlight, fog, and highbeam can be on simultaneously. This does wonders in my car.


I also added a pair of aftermarket spot lights to my vehicle as I find that to be the missing focus element. Stock has headlights (driving), fogs (flood), and high beam (spot). All are obviously SAE spec so are allowed limited output (upgrading these with high lumen LEDS can be make a good difference). Complementing these with a high power aftermarket spot throw works great to round out front lighting.

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Just had a look at the front of my cruiser. The bolts that mount the crash bar are in the perfect spot to build a rig somewhat like 87warrior did but the supports could protrude through the lower grille. I think the challenge would be getting the lights up closer to upper grille level while making it look acceptable. Also avoid drilling/hacking the bumper cover, if possible.

Personally I wanted to run some large or medium format round lights, so the mounting would need to be fairly solid to keep them from moving around at freeway speeds and bumps.
 
I’m still very interested in doing this. I got a single row bar install on my rack this week and it has phenomenal output, but I really do like having more lighting at below eye level, seems to really improve visibility (particularly in inclement weather).

would be curious how many others would be interested, I’m sure it would be easier to convince my local shop to spend the day on it if I were willing to buy half dozen or dozen pairs of mounting brackets...
 
Just had a look at the front of my cruiser. The bolts that mount the crash bar are in the perfect spot to build a rig somewhat like 87warrior did but the supports could protrude through the lower grille. I think the challenge would be getting the lights up closer to upper grille level while making it look acceptable. Also avoid drilling/hacking the bumper cover, if possible.

Personally I wanted to run some large or medium format round lights, so the mounting would need to be fairly solid to keep them from moving around at freeway speeds and bumps.
I’m still very interested in doing this. I got a single row bar install on my rack this week and it has phenomenal output, but I really do like having more lighting at below eye level, seems to really improve visibility (particularly in inclement weather).

would be curious how many others would be interested, I’m sure it would be easier to convince my local shop to spend the day on it if I were willing to buy half dozen or dozen pairs of mounting brackets...

I agree that there is certainly a demand for a 200-specific driving light bracket that would securely place a set of circular driving lights in the center of the grill, opposite each side of the center Toyota grill emblem. It’s a classic look that compliments the front of 200 very well.

I messaged ARB Tech Support a couple of years ago about the test vehicle in an OME suspension demo video on YouTube (screen cap below). The tech I spoke with confirmed that ARB does not make any sort of driving light mount for the 200, even in non-US markets. Bummer.

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Link to the video:
 
I agree that there is certainly a demand for a 200-specific driving light bracket that would securely place a set of circular driving lights in the center of the grill, opposite each side of the center Toyota grill emblem. It’s a classic look that compliments the front of 200 very well.

I messaged ARB Tech Support a couple of years ago about the test vehicle in an OME suspension demo video on YouTube (screen cap below). The tech I spoke with confirmed that ARB does not make any sort of driving light mount for the 200, even in non-US markets. Bummer.

View attachment 2437579

Link to the video:


This is literally exactly what I am looking for, nothing super complicated admittedly but I would have thought there was a company in the aftermarket willing to make brackets for this purpose... I will keep looking I guess!
 
I agree that there is certainly a demand for a 200-specific driving light bracket that would securely place a set of circular driving lights in the center of the grill, opposite each side of the center Toyota grill emblem. It’s a classic look that compliments the front of 200 very well.

I messaged ARB Tech Support a couple of years ago about the test vehicle in an OME suspension demo video on YouTube (screen cap below). The tech I spoke with confirmed that ARB does not make any sort of driving light mount for the 200, even in non-US markets. Bummer.

View attachment 2437579

That is absolutely PERFECT. From the shadows it seems the mounts come through the lower slat of the grille? If they were short an adequately thick chunk of flat-bar steel could work great and be supported behind the plastic.

If it helps your detective work that is a Russian license plate.. maybe worth checking that market for something.

For those of us with a radar antenna behind the sombrero.. does anyone know how much room is needed between the lights to keep them from interfering with that function?

Should be easy. What do you guys need, a single mounting hole on the bottom for each light?

What size light - 6 or 9”?
I think it depends on how flush the lights can be. If someone were willing to hack up the grille to flush-mount lights they'd need to be 6".. but if we could have them in front of the grille with enough room for airflow to go around the option to mount either would be great.

TBH the grille itself is probably solid enough to support a light, with it fully supported on three sides and a few screws on the fourth. But because of the plastic construction we'd have to find a way to distribute the load around.
 
bloc, it doesn't take much to interfere with the millimeter wave radar sensor. I don't know how to quantify it, but in my various messing around with grilles, I've found that even too many steel fender washers can mess it up. I've also read that the metal Toyota emblems from earlier LCs can mess it up too. I think two large lights in front of the grille have a pretty high probably of causing interference.
 
bloc, it doesn't take much to interfere with the millimeter wave radar sensor. I don't know how to quantify it, but in my various messing around with grilles, I've found that even too many steel fender washers can mess it up. I've also read that the metal Toyota emblems from earlier LCs can mess it up too. I think two large lights in front of the grille have a pretty high probably of causing interference.
Yeah I’m assuming ANY metal in the way is bad, but also it seems the radar should only need a pretty narrow angle of clean air to do what it needs to do.. so I’m wondering if since they are close to the grille driving lights with 12” between them would be enough.

Without documentation showing what the radar cone looks like this may end up being a trial & error situation.
 
Should be easy. What do you guys need, a single mounting hole on the bottom for each light?

What size light - 6 or 9”?

I think one hole per side would be ideal. I’m not sure what bolt size ARB/IPF uses for their driving lamps, but that would be a good start. Maybe someone with a set of Intensity or IPF lights could chime in.

To mimic the ARB test vehicle above, the goal would be to roughly center the lights on either side of the grill, between the Toyota emblem and the headlamps (as even vertically to the headlamps as possible). It’s been awhile since I looked that area of the grill over, but when I last checked, I think it would be possible to pass the mounting tabs (maybe 1/4” in thickness) through the horizontal gaps in the grill. I think most of us would be willing to discreetly notch a portion of the grill to open up the tolerances a bit.

My vote would be for something in the 7” range. The ARB Intensity 21s or IPF SuperRally 950s would look sharp. The 950s would mimic the aesthetics of the low beam headlamp lens and look really OEM. I believe both of those housings are around the 7” diameter range. I’ll need to check the specs online when I have a bit more time this evening.


bloc, it doesn't take much to interfere with the millimeter wave radar sensor. I don't know how to quantify it, but in my various messing around with grilles, I've found that even too many steel fender washers can mess it up. I've also read that the metal Toyota emblems from earlier LCs can mess it up too. I think two large lights in front of the grille have a pretty high probably of causing interference.

Yeah I’m assuming ANY metal in the way is bad, but also it seems the radar should only need a pretty narrow angle of clean air to do what it needs to do.. so I’m wondering if since they are close to the grille driving lights with 12” between them would be enough.

Without documentation showing what the radar cone looks like this may end up being a trial & error situation.

I think we’ll be fine with the proposed location. Plenty of late model LC200s have full bullbars with aux driving lights and even winch control boxes mounted in front of the grill. I’ve talked to a few members on here about Dynamic Cruise functionality after a bullbar + driving light configuration, and they report no issues. I swear I’ve seen a diagram of the radar cruise’s cone on here before. IIRC, it was in a thread discussing how to calibrate the system. I’ll do some searching. However, I think the BLUF is a driving light mount that places the lights tucked up close to the grill and to the sides of the emitter will be fine.
 
I think one hole per side would be ideal. I’m not sure what bolt size ARB/IPF uses for their driving lamps, but that would be a good start. Maybe someone with a set of Intensity or IPF lights could chime in.

To mimic the ARB test vehicle above, the goal would be to roughly center the lights on either side of the grill, between the Toyota emblem and the headlamps (as even vertically to the headlamps as possible). It’s been awhile since I looked that area of the grill over, but when I last checked, I think it would be possible to pass the mounting tabs (maybe 1/4” in thickness) through the horizontal gaps in the grill. I think most of us would be willing to discreetly notch a portion of the grill to open up the tolerances a bit.

My vote would be for something in the 7” range. The ARB Intensity 21s or IPF SuperRally 950s would look sharp. The 950s would mimic the aesthetics of the low beam headlamp lens and look really OEM. I believe both of those housings are around the 7” diameter range. I’ll need to check the specs online when I have a bit more time this evening.






I think we’ll be fine with the proposed location. Plenty of late model LC200s have full bullbars with aux driving lights and even winch control boxes mounted in front of the grill. I’ve talked to a few members on here about Dynamic Cruise functionality after a bullbar + driving light configuration, and they report no issues. I swear I’ve seen a diagram of the radar cruise’s cone on here before. IIRC, it was in a thread discussing how to calibrate the system. I’ll do some searching. However, I think the BLUF is a driving light mount that places the lights tucked up close to the grill and to the sides of the emitter will be fine.
I had a quick look at my grille last night and there is a ton of room to pass some flat bar through to mount the lights. There are small vertical struts between the horizontal bars that we might have to work around or trim, and my 13-15 grille is likely different than years before or after, but I think this is a good option.
Personally I’m less worried about exact placement and aesthetics than function with regard to the light placement and avoiding issues with the radar. That’s a great point about the bull bars and winches though.
I’ll remove my radiator cover and have a good look at mine today for a strategy.. directly below the grille is only sheet metal but below the lower grille is the crash bar. Building some L shaped brackets that anchor there, stabilize off the sheet metal, then turn forward through the grille to support the lights might be a good strategy. Will post more details and pics later today.
 
Not trying to hijack, but 10" two row light bars fit nicely into the bumper openings. They don't have the same aesthetic, but the definitely don't interfere with the radar.
 
Not trying to hijack, but 10" two row light bars fit nicely into the bumper openings. They don't have the same aesthetic, but the definitely don't interfere with the radar.
Living where it routinely gets over 100 degrees I’m personally not comfortable with what that does to obstruct a major grille opening. And I spent some time looking into this.. I think any attempt to move the light bar backwards will impact beam pattern. I like the idea of lights mounted in front where the fan can take over and pull air through both openings if ambient airflow isn’t enough to get the job done.
 
I had a quick look at my grille last night and there is a ton of room to pass some flat bar through to mount the lights. There are small vertical struts between the horizontal bars that we might have to work around or trim, and my 13-15 grille is likely different than years before or after, but I think this is a good option.
Personally I’m less worried about exact placement and aesthetics than function with regard to the light placement and avoiding issues with the radar. That’s a great point about the bull bars and winches though.
I’ll remove my radiator cover and have a good look at mine today for a strategy.. directly below the grille is only sheet metal but below the lower grille is the crash bar. Building some L shaped brackets that anchor there, stabilize off the sheet metal, then turn forward through the grille to support the lights might be a good strategy. Will post more details and pics later today.

Agreed. The crash bar is stout and could certainly support the bulk of the weight from the lights themselves. The radiator support structure has enough real estate for some additional bracing to reduce deflection from road vibration - there are enough existing bolts there to make it happen without a lot drilling.

I think all in all, a solid mounting bracket could certainly be made. It’s going to require a few strategic bends and be a bit more complex than your average light mount, but doable.
 

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