Opinions wanted: LED offroad driving lights

[elkeye]

Before I do the bumper install on my 2013 LC, was thinking about offroad lights. I find them incredibly helpful in the desert, especially after a long day with a long drive back to pavement.

I've been mounting an ancient set of Cibie Oscars on various trucks for the past 40 years, and they still work, but, I think for this install I'm to upgrade to something newer and LED. The Cibie's are huge, which I love, but dated in function.

So, I've looked at Baja Designs, and ARB, I'm a fan of the flood/spot approach, and I'm not sure who else I should look at, and what models to choose. Even with Baja and ARB, there are quite a few models. Obviously, I'm not racing, and I'm not using these on the street, just want a bit extra coverage in the pitch black desert at night.

Thoughts and suggestions welcome. I did search for relevant threads, but found that if there is info on here, it's spread across hundreds of random threads.

Feel free to shut this down if there's an existing thread that I missed. Thanks!

Check out a pair of these:

Type-X ™ PRO LED Driving Lights (Pair)

The STEDI™ Type-X™ Pro LED Driving Light features up to 1.15KM beam throw due to a combination of spot & flood reflectors that allow the Type-X™ maximum output.

www.stediusa.com

 

[elkeye]

Before I do the bumper install on my 2013 LC, was thinking about offroad lights. I find them incredibly helpful in the desert, especially after a long day with a long drive back to pavement.

I've been mounting an ancient set of Cibie Oscars on various trucks for the past 40 years, and they still work, but, I think for this install I'm to upgrade to something newer and LED. The Cibie's are huge, which I love, but dated in function.

So, I've looked at Baja Designs, and ARB, I'm a fan of the flood/spot approach, and I'm not sure who else I should look at, and what models to choose. Even with Baja and ARB, there are quite a few models. Obviously, I'm not racing, and I'm not using these on the street, just want a bit extra coverage in the pitch black desert at night.

Thoughts and suggestions welcome. I did search for relevant threads, but found that if there is info on here, it's spread across hundreds of random threads.

Feel free to shut this down if there's an existing thread that I missed. Thanks!

If you are installing an ARB bumper, check out the Slee Off-Road – ARB LED Light Brackets and install a pair of Rigid D-series Pro (driving, flood and/or spot) lights.

SLEE - Foglight Light Surround Replacements for ARB Bumpers - Slee Off Road

Fits all ARB Bumpers with small size foglight insert. Print template and verify fitment prior to ordering. Not a direct replacement, does require drilling into bumper Check bumper compatibility if not sure. Can be fitted to large size foglight insert with a different install procedure. Contact...

sleeoffroad.com

D-Series Pro Compact LED Lights

Learn about Rigid Industries' D-Series LED lights. With a variety of mounting options, these LED lights are one of the most versatile on the market.

www.rigidindustries.com

 

[gasman4u]

I have a set of Baja LP9's nice but very pricy and I never use the Dual mode function, it's Full on or off....
I am buying a set of Stedi Lights (AUS Company but made in China I presume, like the rest) for about 1/2 the cost.. quality is great and anyway nice lights for what I need.
LIghtforce, and VisionX make very nice lights as well... IDK pick your price point I guess is my advice and buy the set you think has the best quality - I have had the cheap ones die after less than a year for what it's worth.

My old rig had a great VisionX light bar with a SPDT switch. I loved that setup and wired it myself. I was proud of the end result, just not the wiring job I did to get there (looked terrible imo), but was functional whenever I needed it. With that said, I am a big Rigid guy too and have a few of their light bars used on other things.

TLDR: VisionX is good kit along with Rigid.

 

[ryanCA]

 

[themanwithnoname]

Well, I ended up buying a set of the Lightforce HTX2. I went down the rabbit hole and somehow decided that they sounded like the right lights to replace my ancient Cibies. Now I just have to wait for them to arrive so I can drill holes correctly in the Rival bumper, then, finally, get the bumper powdercoated to match my 200! I guess I'm going to skip wiring them into the highbeam circuit, I don't really want to get into splicing factory wiring. It's the rule of "do no additional harm".

 

[100kiwi]

Well, I ended up buying a set of the Lightforce HTX2. I went down the rabbit hole and somehow decided that they sounded like the right lights to replace my ancient Cibies. Now I just have to wait for them to arrive so I can drill holes correctly in the Rival bumper, then, finally, get the bumper powdercoated to match my 200! I guess I'm going to skip wiring them into the highbeam circuit, I don't really want to get into splicing factory wiring. It's the rule of "do no additional harm".

You can use a fuse tap to get a high beam signal, no additional harm to the factory wire harness

 

[ryanCA]

Well, I ended up buying a set of the Lightforce HTX2. I went down the rabbit hole and somehow decided that they sounded like the right lights to replace my ancient Cibies. Now I just have to wait for them to arrive so I can drill holes correctly in the Rival bumper, then, finally, get the bumper powdercoated to match my 200! I guess I'm going to skip wiring them into the highbeam circuit, I don't really want to get into splicing factory wiring. It's the rule of "do no additional harm".

looking forward to seeing it

 

[gasman4u]

You can use a fuse tap to get a high beam signal, no additional harm to the factory wire harness

Could you use this signal wire and toss it to a switch to operate the light bar either with or without the high beams? Think single pole dual throw switch. Thanks

 

[grinchy]

Two of the older model spot version Ironman 7”. Got a variety of color covers (clear, orange, black). Lights are completely functional 2 years in. Bright as all get out.

(Edit - these appear to be discontinued. They are likely mass made 7” generics. They are doing great as far as paint fade and Waterproofing)

 

[themanwithnoname]

You can use a fuse tap to get a high beam signal, no additional harm to the factory wire harness

Thanks for the heads up. I'll look into doing this.

 

[100kiwi]

Could you use this signal wire and toss it to a switch to operate the light bar either with or without the high beams? Think single pole dual throw switch. Thanks

The signal (12v) is only on when the high beams are on.
You can use that signal to close a relay when the high beams are on, or like I do it goes to an ARB Linx. The linx can do what you are asking, turning the lights on independently of the high beams.

 

[gasman4u]

The signal (12v) is only on when the high beams are on.
You can use that signal to close a relay when the high beams are on, or like I do it goes to an ARB Linx. The linx can do what you are asking, turning the lights on independently of the high beams.

Gotcha. Does the Linx work better (or similar) than the switchpro brand?

 

[100kiwi]

Gotcha. Does the Linx work better (or similar) than the switchpro brand?

I went with Linx for it's airbag control and pressure control.
Vs the others i can't really comment as I haven't owned them.
But I will say the 6 circuits Linx controls need a relay to carry the load, it only puts out small amps to close or open a relay.
Also the android POS that comes with the Linx goes straight in the garbage, I had nothing but issues with crashing/freezing of the phone. Once I was able to put it on a phone of my choice the problems stopped.

 

[Boston Mangler]

for our dessert offfroading seeing distance and bright os key for my usage

i dont need them on street or use them so dot compliance is of no use

any suggestions for me ?

That @BenCC fella that makes those really nice 3D printed squadron pro dual mounts for the 100 series is allegedly working on something for us Pre-2013 poors with the odd OEM foglight shape

I’ll order a set the day he first has them available

Build - Ben3DBuild

About to do a 7.1 install (rear console USB outlet.) Got two wires coming from the 12 volt - one black and one black/white stripped. Any way to tell which is positive? As Ayune said, yes, the black is the power +12V.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[ryanCA]

That @BenCC fella that makes those really nice 3D printed squadron pro dual mounts for the 100 series is allegedly working on something for us Pre-2013 poors with the odd OEM foglight shape

I’ll order a set the day he first has them available

Build - Ben3DBuild

About to do a 7.1 install (rear console USB outlet.) Got two wires coming from the 12 volt - one black and one black/white stripped. Any way to tell which is positive? As Ayune said, yes, the black is the power +12V.

forum.ih8mud.com

please keep me posted

as president of the Poors Club with lifetime AARP membership - my eye sight needs all the help it can get not to wreck my 200

unless a head gasket or my motor goes kaput and takes out my 200 before i do any damage

 

[TeCKis300]

Couple other factors to picking and setting up auxiliary lights.

- Consider CRI (Color Rendering Index) when picking lights. This is a big deal for more usable light off-road as they have broader light spectrum outputs. Meaning you'll actually see contrasts and colors better to allow picking out details and animals for example. Just as the sun can illuminate with a rich spectrum of colors, a high quality CRI light source will paint the scene with more contrast. Versus Ebay specials that are high lumen "one note" of color and will paint everything in a cool blue. The better brands and models will have published CRI specs.

- The front facade of the cars bumper and grill float and need to flex against the inner structure. The skin, grill, and upper body moves independently from the frame and crash bar. This is important to mounting things as over time, especially on high corrugation roads, the flex can start cracking mounts or damage the tupperwear and grill. So for a light bar mounted to the crash bar, leave some room around it and the grill so they have room to move and do their business.

 

[spazzyfry123]

Whatever you choose, always choose to not use them on the damn road "just because." My goodness. I leave early in the morning most days and always find myself head-on with a Tacoma or 4Runner Bro with their yellow fog light lasers.

WE GET IT. YOU OVERLAND.

 

[OregonLC]

You can use a fuse tap to get a high beam signal, no additional harm to the factory wire harness

Could you use this signal wire and toss it to a switch to operate the light bar either with or without the high beams? Think single pole dual throw switch. Thanks

On my 200 I have an aftermarket switch that 'arms' the offroad lights. They are then controlled by the high beam selector on the stalk. The best high beams are the ones you have on when you need them and fiddling for a secondary switch when running on the highway isn't efficient. There's never a time when I'd want the offroad lights to run but have the high beams off. This allows me to utilize the full power of lights on rural highways with the ease of dimming for oncoming quickly by the stalk, or automatically via the sensor.

The only consideration for this is to wire fogs (particularly aftermarket fogs) to either a dedicated switch or use a similar 'arming' strategy where, when armed, they come on passively with ignition. This way you don't lose them with the high beams.

 

[ryanCA]

Whatever you choose, always choose to not use them on the damn road "just because." My goodness. I leave early in the morning most days and always find myself head-on with a Tacoma or 4Runner Bro with their yellow fog light lasers.

WE GET IT. YOU OVERLAND.

250/taco/4 runner bros do things that us 200 owners would never do....

 

[spazzyfry123]

250/taco/4 runner bros do things that us 200 owners would never do....

Tell that to the 200 guy I see with his three amber DOT lights in the grille.