Mounting Front Driving Lights - Stock Bumper

[KilaCruiser]

I have an appointment in mid November to get a pair of BD LP6 Pro's mounted on my stock front bumper via some simple tabs through the grill. Should flank the radar and camera as above...Provided it works out as planned, glad to put anyone interested in contact with the shop. Looked at everything from a steel bumper to brush bars

 

[bloc]

I have an appointment in mid November to get a pair of BD LP6 Pro's mounted on my stock front bumper via some simple tabs through the grill. Should flank the radar and camera as above...Provided it works out as planned, glad to put anyone interested in contact with the shop. Looked at everything from a steel bumper to brush bars

Mention to them this could be an easy to reproduce product that quite a few people would order if they look good. I’m not sure of the differences in grille over the years but that could pose some small challenges for specific fitment...

 

[Moby]

Those are going to be awesome. I looked at mounting to the sheet metal brace right behind the grill. It is formed and stiff enough for these needs. So it would work with a couple of small bolts. However it will either take a tight double bend or a boxed spacer with an extension plate welded to the top or a box cut down. I don't have the capacity to make a double bend that tight (~2" between bends is about as tight as I can go) and didn't want to get into trying to find a box or rectangular tube of exactly the right height given the very small gaps in the grill. So I went down to the crash bar and hit dead center between the lower slats.

 

[KilaCruiser]

@Moby - You're way ahead of me with that knowledge, I dont have the capacity to weld and my electrical experience was really pushed using a mirrotap for the radar or wiring aux lights on a Wrangler. Super helpful though and I'll share that knowledge with the team in two wks. Thank you.

@bloc - Conveniently, I'm running a '13 as well so that's simple. If the process ends up on the easier side, I'm confident they'll be happy to share the wealth. Owner's a good human!

 

[EGR GUY]

Here are a couple of photos from the 200-series Facebook group. A member there posted some photos of his 200 with a set of homemade mounts for two circular driving lamps. It’s a great look for sure:

View attachment 2484525View attachment 2484526

Tagging @sleeoffroad to see if the team there might be interested in offering a solution

Agreed - This looks perfect!

 

[dubaicruiser]

Did this.
For the lights, I ordered Harley headlights with housing!

 

[KilaCruiser]

Did this.
For the lights, I ordered Harley headlights with housing!

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Looks great!

 

[dubaicruiser]

Looks great!

Thankyou.

Considering doing the chrome delete for the grill next, thinking it'll go great with the black housing of the lights and overall look.

 

[Moby]

I finished my brackets over the weekend and promptly decided I didn't like them They are beefier than the mounts above and they would probably be fine but I am leaning towards BD LP9s to avoid potential camera and radar interference (as opposed to a bar that would stick out directly below). To test them I put them in my vice and put a 7lbs weight on them. I didn't like the rigidity. But at least I knocked some of rust off of my TIG skills. I'll never be an Instragram TIG star, but I forgot how much I enjoy the process of working to control the puddle and feed the rod, and how good it feels when you break the arc and see a nice, consistent bead...

Anyway today I should having arriving some 1"x1.5" 1/8" box tubing and some 3"x3/16" plate. 3" will better accommodate the 3 bolt mounting pattern of the LP9s (1.9" diameter from the center bolt, so with the 2" mounts I would not be able to use the side bolts). The bottom with be 2"x1/8" plate with 3 bolts (one on each side and one in front). Again mounted to the crash bar.

 

[KilaCruiser]

@Moby - Did you go with Clear or Yellow on your BD's? My shop talked me into yellow, but that forced my hand down to the LP6's

 

[Moby]

Haven't bought yet. Trying to get through to BD to talk pattern. I'm thinking spot because these will only be used in conjunction with the stock high beams. Power will run from the high beam fuse to a dash switch to the relay. If high beams && switch, aux lights on. That way I can use the stock high beam to control both. The aux lights on my GX worked the same and it was perfect for night driving on lesser travelled highways. If I ever don't want the aux lights just turn off the aux lights dash switch and only the high beams will come on. But the BD spot pattern is narrower than the Rigids I ran on the GX so want to check.

Why did they recommend amber?

 

[KilaCruiser]

Makes sense and pretty slick. Went combo because it was relayed to me that they're great in practice - wide beam with great reach. Functional replacement for all other forward light outside of factory. I like a little contrast with rain and snow and saw an amber set live.... not sure I'm equipped to share a science or experienced based answer on them just yet I will say, they are way larger and more impressive than I expected. The 9's must be huge!

 

[Moby]

Sounds great! Yeah, the 9s are huge. Little worried about the amount of airflow they will block. I may downsize the the 6s as well. Mounts will be built to accommodate either, and one of their 20" bars as well.

 

[Moby]

I ordered the 9s, they will be here tomorrow. In the combo as well. I figured with the larger size there will still be plenty of light down the road and I won't have to modify the fog light circuit to get good side road coverage when the high beams are on.

I finished welding up the new mounts this morning as well. Top is 3"x3/16". It's long right now. I'll trim it back once I get the lights. Uprights are 1"x1.5"x1/16". Feet are 2"x1/8". These are much stiffer than the first set I made.

Tomorrow I'll pull the bumper and drill and tap the crash bar. I already have a switch for the stock dash blanks to the left of the steering wheel. I put Deutsch connectors on it (I use Deutsch for all my auto wiring, inside and out). I'll cut the switch off the harness for the 9s and connect to my switch.

How about pictures? The pieces cut to size and cleaned up. Belt/disc grinder on a pedestal mount makes clean up and getting things square easy.

Getting the tacks squared up:

I'll never be featured on #weldporn but TIG welds are getting a little better again. Solid and controlled if not pretty. There are 2 I'd like to have back but overall happy enough.

Finished:

 

[Tommy Dwyer]

I ordered the 9s, they will be here tomorrow. In the combo as well. I figured with the larger size there will still be plenty of light down the road and I won't have to modify the fog light circuit to get good side road coverage when the high beams are on.

I finished welding up the new mounts this morning as well. Top is 3"x3/16". It's long right now. I'll trim it back once I get the lights. Uprights are 1"x1.5"x1/16". Feet are 2"x1/8". These are much stiffer than the first set I made.

Tomorrow I'll pull the bumper and drill and tap the crash bar. I already have a switch for the stock dash blanks to the left of the steering wheel. I put Deutsch connectors on it (I use Deutsch for all my auto wiring, inside and out). I'll cut the switch off the harness for the 9s and connect to my switch.

How about pictures? The pieces cut to size and cleaned up. Belt/disc grinder on a pedestal mount makes clean up and getting things square easy.

View attachment 2495413

Getting the tacks squared up:

View attachment 2495417

I'll never be featured on #weldporn but TIG welds are getting a little better again. Solid and controlled if not pretty. There are 2 I'd like to have back but overall happy enough.
View attachment 2495418


Finished:
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Nice work! I’d buy a pair of those in a heartbeat

 

[Moby]

Nice work! I’d buy a pair of those in a heartbeat

Thanks!

 

[bloc]

I ordered the 9s, they will be here tomorrow. In the combo as well. I figured with the larger size there will still be plenty of light down the road and I won't have to modify the fog light circuit to get good side road coverage when the high beams are on.

I finished welding up the new mounts this morning as well. Top is 3"x3/16". It's long right now. I'll trim it back once I get the lights. Uprights are 1"x1.5"x1/16". Feet are 2"x1/8". These are much stiffer than the first set I made.

Tomorrow I'll pull the bumper and drill and tap the crash bar. I already have a switch for the stock dash blanks to the left of the steering wheel. I put Deutsch connectors on it (I use Deutsch for all my auto wiring, inside and out). I'll cut the switch off the harness for the 9s and connect to my switch.

How about pictures? The pieces cut to size and cleaned up. Belt/disc grinder on a pedestal mount makes clean up and getting things square easy.

View attachment 2495413

Getting the tacks squared up:

View attachment 2495417

I'll never be featured on #weldporn but TIG welds are getting a little better again. Solid and controlled if not pretty. There are 2 I'd like to have back but overall happy enough.
View attachment 2495418


Finished:
View attachment 2495421

View attachment 2495432

I guess I might need to wait for them to be installed, but in your opinion no need for front/rear stabilization from the sheet metal bumper support?

 

[Moby]

I don't think so. The top is 3"x3/16" and unlike the first set I made with the vertical piece being a rectangle the top piece has more structured support. The lights only weigh 6.5lbs per. I'll go out to the shop later, put them in the vice and put 10lbs on it like the first ones to test for deflection. If it does deflect or I don't like the stress on the foot I'll just add a little 90° piece with a nut-cert in the brace.

 

[Moby]

I put it in the vice with 10lbs on the very end (probably a couple of inches past where the lights will actually mount). I got maybe 1/4-1/2 degree deflection. Just using a cheap magnetic dial angle finder so not super precise. I think that will work good enough for me The only other concern that I have is the threads in the al crash bar. I just did one centered in the front, but if I get it mounted and am worried I can add two more to the front. I'm using 8mmx1.25 bolts.

 

[bloc]

I put it in the vice with 10lbs on the very end (probably a couple of inches past where the lights will actually mount). I got maybe 1/4-1/2 degree deflection. Just using a cheap magnetic dial angle finder so not super precise. I think that will work good enough for me The only other concern that I have is the threads in the al crash bar. I just did one centered in the front, but if I get it mounted and am worried I can add two more to the front. I'm using 8mmx1.25 bolts.

Nice.

Nut-serts are always an option if your holes go through a flat part of the bar. Not great for a structural repair or anything but possibly way stronger than a bolt into 3/16” of aluminum.