- Thread starter
- #21
I already have one.
They're also online: http://www.warn.com/truck/winches/src/images/59/38292D3.pdf
Unfortunately, they didn't think to address my ideas.
Mounting a 8274 backwards...? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter amaurer
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I already have one.
They're also online: http://www.warn.com/truck/winches/src/images/59/38292D3.pdf
Unfortunately, they didn't think to address my ideas.
Is that a fact?
Had you read through your manual you would have found that it clearly addresses your question:
Page three of your PDF link provided, under Installation Safety
Always spool the wire rope onto the drum in the direction specified by the drum rotation label on the winch and/or documentation. This is required for the automatic brake to function properly.
I guess when I went to Airframe and Power Plant mechanics school, I was instructed to have the book for reference material and to read the book....
- Thread starter
- #23
Is that a fact?
Had you read through your manual you would have found that it clearly addresses your question:
Page three of your PDF link provided, under Installation Safety
Always spool the wire rope onto the drum in the direction specified by the drum rotation label on the winch and/or documentation. This is required for the automatic brake to function properly.
I guess when I went to Airframe and Power Plant mechanics school, I was instructed to have the book for reference material and to read the book....
I'm with you 100% which is why, if you read this very thread, you'll see that I'm not changing the direction of the windings. If you face the winch towards the rear of the truck and keep the cable wound in the correct way, it will come off the top of the drum pointing forward and the brake will still function.
As I think about it, I won't even need to rewire the solenoids like I thought I might - in will still be in, and out will still be out. The only difference is the way the winch faces.
Dude, if you do this and it works could you take a picture and post it up here? I can't wait to see this.....
Sure, you are not mounting it differently than how it is specified in the manual; ok, I get it. 
I sure hope you do not end up getting yourself or someone else hurt with this.
Simply because one can think well at home does not have any direct relation to one’s ability to fabricate something that is safe while there.
I sure hope you do not end up getting yourself or someone else hurt with this.
Simply because one can think well at home does not have any direct relation to one’s ability to fabricate something that is safe while there.
Direction of rotation stays the same for in and out so really the only question should be how to modify the gearbox housing so there are no tension loads on the attaching bolts. I think though that the cable would still have to be between the upper and lower sets of mounting bolts to prevent the bottom bolts from being under tension when the spool is almost full.
Personally, I prefer to keep the cable pulling from as low a point on the vehicle as is practical, it will tend to help lift the vehicle over the obstacle rather than pulling it down into it.
If you don't want to mount the fairlead in the bumper have a look at dropping it even more and putting the fairlead under the bumper as jagota suggested.
Personally, I prefer to keep the cable pulling from as low a point on the vehicle as is practical, it will tend to help lift the vehicle over the obstacle rather than pulling it down into it.
If you don't want to mount the fairlead in the bumper have a look at dropping it even more and putting the fairlead under the bumper as jagota suggested.
- Thread starter
- #27
Well, I took a look at the housing when I got home and I think, in the end, Poser is right and this is a bad idea. A large part of the structural ribbing extends only from the drum opening to the mounting feet - there is much less reinforcement on the other side.
Oh well.
Oh well.
seems like alot of work when this set up works perfect on my 82(as it came that way from the dealer, I did change it for a -50)
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This its the way that the PO mount the warn 8274.
1) its have a plate welded to the frame and the roller on the same plate,so you can use any factory bumper
2) the bad..the only way that you can add a Power Steering ( if you dont have Saginaw box already) its using the 84-85 mini truck...fj60 box or scout box and using the factory system.
3) few member will point on the air flow toward the radiator cos the winch will be '' high'' to block the cold air
4) about your idea on using the winch other than the way that was design for use..i really don't like it
5) maybe i don't know too much to bring more ideas..just my x 2
Eshu, How does that thing get any air to the radiator or is that just the angle of the photo?
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This would be a pretty good option since you stated in the origianl post that is was strictly aesthetic.
That is a great idea......
and I'm a little late on this one but it did seem that the idea of pulling from the top of the winch vs. the front would only work well if you could pull yourself straight up. If you attached to a low point you'd only succeed in pulling your front end down I would think.
Just reinforce it with some mighty putty, you should be good.
Updates?
Updates?
Amaurer, I see you are not the first person to come up with this idea. Here is a link to a guy mounting a Toyota factory Aisin-1000 winch backwards. I guess he had the opposite problem as the Aisin winch spools off of the top in normal operation
project-tinfoilstep7
