well it should be easier with each connector thats broken
um yeah the tranny cooler lines were a b*tch. Best to separate the motor and drop it down and inch and come forward as much as you can before lifting it out.
they are at the very back of pick #3 at the bellhousing/firewall
up and out...... that was easy; but then again I learned the first half of a rebuild is the easy part on my 2F project (and that didnt have 37 miles of wiring harness )
The torque converter did try to follow the motor out even after unbolted. After separating the motor use caution and before going too far look down and make sure it wont fall out. I was able to stick a pry bar in there and realign it on the input shaft (?) of the transmission
NOTE: if you are going to be doing the tear down yourself make sure to break loose the crank nut while its in the vehicle
We were struggling removing the flexplate but admittedly are way underpowered on the air side
anyone know what this metallic flake material is or would indicate in pic 2?
there is about a teaspoon of it inside what would be the equivalant of the pilot bearing in a manual, recessed machined hole in center of flexplate behind my finger in picture.
All of the cylinders look this good or better, very even wear and crosshatching is apparent in all cylinder walls. That is not staining on the right of the cylinder pic, its a reflection of an orange/yellow shirt.
haha no kidding. I know of one but he has been complaining about a bum knee for a while and really falling behind on his duties!
You learn as you go for sure, but i have realized that I probably should have left some of the motor together and pulled it as one unit.
QUESTION: regarding the flywheel, i'm having a hard time getting the bolts loose to remove the fly wheel. It will not fit on my stand with the flywheel in place. I'm leaning towards taking the block with the flywheel, oil pans, bottom end, cylinders and all still in place as one unit and just having them do it all. Good idea or not? Should i go ahead and tear it completely down and take them just the block, or leave it assembled and take them everything?
OK, yea i don't think i have enough air to the impact gun. We don't have a big air compressor. Plus, i started to round some of the bolts a little yesterday as they just would not budge.
Is a 12 point better for grabbing and not rounding than a regular i guess 6 point socket?
OK, i will pull the flywheel and pans, then take it to them.
intakes..... since they are aluminum, can i fill a tub of water and degreaser like simple green and let them soak a while then scrub them with a brush/toothbrush? They are aluminum so they shouldn't rust?
you might take a block of wood and cut it so it will fit into the access hole you used to remove the bolts from the torque converter. The rotate the flex plate so you can then lag into that piece of wood through one of the bolt holes. This should hold the crank in place so you can loosen those bolts without damaging anything critical. And you want to use a 6 point socket without any extension if possible to get the best leverage.
And placing the intakes in SGF won't hurt anything as long and the sensors and such are removed.
intakes..... since they are aluminum, can i fill a tub of water and degreaser like simple green and let them soak a while then scrub them with a brush/toothbrush? They are aluminum so they shouldn't rust?
Yep, this worked on my intake. I let soak in almost 100% SG for a week or so, the longer the better, but it all evenyually came out using a combo of a stiff wire brush on the 'difficult' spots and a pressure washer.
well as always it wouldn't be a cruiser if it always was smooth... One damn flywheel bolt decided it just would not come out. Now it's rounding and i am having to step away so i can rethink and keep my composure.