Motor tear-down and rebuild... Tear Down.

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OK, packing up the injectors now to send to witchunter! I'm pumped!

Any suggestions on any PM i should do with the radiator since it's out? Never had a heating issue. So far i've just stuck the hose down each opening and flushed it. A little bit of that greenish-grey came out but not much. Mostly just clean water.
 
Wonder what a shop in your area would charge to professionally clean it and put a new O ring between the top tank and core? Unless it's newer, of course (you didn't mention its age/condition). I was quoted $80 with it dropped at the shop and I provided the Toyota O ring from American Toyota.

Speaking of cooling systems. That large diameter aluminum pipe atop the water pump. Be sure to pull it out (it will rock back and forth with pliers/rag) and replace the O ring on its other end. You can see the one on the upper end but there's another on the bottom I'm talking about. Hard to believe that was once an O ring, eh? Anyhow, don't miss that little gem 'cause it's way easier to pull now without the head in the way. The American Toyota kit comes with it and I was reassembling once and scratched my head about the "extra O ring". Nope, caught it before it would have been a pain to change.

DougM
 
Thanks Doug for the good advice.

Yea, i believe the radiator is original and the truck is a 95'. With that said, it seems to be in great condition. No cracks, no leaks, the fins are even in great shape! I was wondering if there is a cleaner that perhaps i can plug the bottom and let some cleaner sit in it for a few days and then hose it out? Maybe CLR?

O'ring.. hmmmm.... i'll have to have a look at that. I do plan on replacing the water pump gasket.
 
I"m really starting to second guess boring the block to a 4.6. It looks amazing and actually still shows some cross-hatching on the cylinder walls. I will have to purchase new pistons, rings if i decide to bore it. If not, i just need new rings.

I am not aware of anyone other than bjowett and robbie that have bored the block over. Is that extra little bit worth it? Especially if i plan on putting forced induction on it anyways.
 
concretejungle said:
I"m really starting to second guess boring the block to a 4.6. It looks amazing and actually still shows some cross-hatching on the cylinder walls. I will have to purchase new pistons, rings if i decide to bore it. If not, i just need new rings.

I am not aware of anyone other than bjowett and robbie that have bored the block over. Is that extra little bit worth it? Especially if i plan on putting forced induction on it anyways.
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My block is currently at the machine shop being bored over to the max 1mm over. Yes, I did need new pistons and the rings from Beno. I didn't have any cross-hatching left on the cylinders so I figured a motor with something like 225K on it needed the 'complete' rebuild.

A 'little' more money but I'll sleep better at night. I'm also expecting another 300K or so on this motor so I gotta go 'all the way' !

Rgds..
 
i admit this is a stupid question for some. And i also admit that this is my first total motor rebuild, so i am learning as i go. I have had great success on other wrenching projects on the 80 like installing the aussie locker, lift kits, replacing bushings, starter replacement, valve cover replacement, adding armor, ect....

The question is now that the head is off, where in the heck do you hook the picker onto the block to remove it? The "hooks" were bolted to the head. Should i have left the head in place to remove the block? Do i wrap a huge chain around the block and pull it? I have a motor stand ready so i can rebuild the bottom end and other items, but i got to figure out how to pull the block?

i purchased a pretty cheap camera since mine is broken so hopefully soon i can add some more pictures to this thread.
 
here are two iphone pics. :hillbilly:
block 001.webp
block 002.webp
 
That might be what i will do. Still have not decided on boring it over as two friends have said "why? you can still see the cross hatch on the cylinder wall, why spend the extra money?" I do plan on using ARP studs and a cometic HG, so might as well put the old head bolts to work again.

thanks!
 
separating motor from transmission

OK, next question. Step 7 in the FSM says remove 6 torque converter clutch mounting bolts... that looks pretty self explanatory... just remove the plastic cover, turn the crank until you see each (6 of them) bolt and remove.

But step 8 is where i'm having a problem. It says separate engine and transmission by removing the 10 bolts. Well, i can get 7 of them easy, but what about these two S.O.B. bolts?! how am i supposed to get a wrench on them? There's no room! :bang:
impossible bolts 001.webp
impossible bolts 002.webp
 
2ft breaker bar with a 17mm swivel socket on the end with the tranny cross-member removed so the rear hangs down.

The engine will likely get caught on the tranny cooling lines over by the starter when you start to remove it. They come up over the edge of the block and are a real PITA. There is a clamp of sorts that secures them down on the bell housing with a single bolt in the center. You will want to remove that to give yourself some more room to wiggle it out.
 
OK, a little patience and some thinking and i beleive i got it!! :bounce: I ended up standing on the motor and using a 17 MM 12 point box end wrench. Also almost gave myself a hernia trying to loosen it. I did finally!


Looks like i just need to remove the starter, engine wire from transmission, and a few other clamped lines.

REMINDER! When you try to remove the 6 torque converter clutch mounting bolts, your timing chain/gear will turn when you turn the crank. Be careful not to just crank on it because you will jam your timing chain. This is something i used an extra set of hands to do while i laid under the truck and said "keep turning, slow... OK stop!" removed a bolt and then repeated until i had all 6.

Thanks again Landtank for responding to my questions! :cheers:
impossible bolts-possible.webp
 
Motor is out. Those two hard lines that run on the DS if you are facing the rear of the truck, these two lines run over the bell housing and are a total Bi&# in the way. You kind of have to wiggle the but end of the block so they will come around the lines.
 
concretejungle said:
Motor is out. Those two hard lines that run on the DS if you are facing the rear of the truck, these two lines run over the bell housing and are a total Bi&# in the way. You kind of have to wiggle the but end of the block so they will come around the lines.
Click to expand...

Ya, they blow! I went out and bought the open end wrenches that fit the connections at the tranny and am going to try and remove them prior to separating the engine from the tranny.
 
concretejungle said:
. Also almost gave myself a hernia trying to loosen it. I did finally! :cheers:
Click to expand...

Concrete, you are a funny guy:grinpimp: Keep up the good work, you are doing great. Please post pics of :wrench:removal, rebuilt, and re-installation of that engine. I have to rebuild mine and I'm sure your write up may help me and others too. Thanks.
 
4x4CPOSEADOG said:
Concrete, you are a funny guy:grinpimp: Keep up the good work, you are doing great. Please post pics of :wrench:removal, rebuilt, and re-installation of that engine. I have to rebuild mine and I'm sure your write up may help me and others too. Thanks.
Click to expand...

I had planned on documenting with photos, but the camera i purchased still has not arrived :bang:

BTW, i didn't get a hernia, but i did get the bolt out! :hillbilly:

jfz80 took some pics, so maybe he'll post up. I really hope the camera gets here so i can take a lot of pictures. I have a feeling i will have a lot of questions when i go to put it back together!
 
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