ah, that screw driver trick was a mistake unless you are planning on pulling the timing cover.
Why is that?
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ah, that screw driver trick was a mistake unless you are planning on pulling the timing cover.
now that's not even funny...
the responses to the screw drive comment is correct. You need to keep the cam sprocket in place to maintain timing. But since this is a full tear down it doesn't matter.
Beno, I thought that Toyota sold oversized rings and HG? I did not know it would be a cometic HG. Yes, i do plan on using the ARP fasteners. I also know that two need to be ground.
... the oil pump bushing? I thought it was unavailable? That is one thing i am worried about. Even if i remove it before i send the block off, what if it needs replacing?
I would not remove it, the chance of it going back in and having the same dimensions, concentric to how it was broken in are slim. I would just pressure wash the block then make the shop well aware of the bushing and it's unobtainium status.
Bjowett made it look fairly simple in removing it "just in case". Never knew there was a "seating" or break in process on the bushing.
can I reuse my 'old' std OEM HG bolts that I pulled out ? I checked them per the FSM and they seem in spec. Does Cometic recemmend a different manufacturer/bolt ?
Back to my original thought: if the bolts check out, why does everyone use ARP or something else ?
Personally I re-used my original head bolts when I did a preventative HG replacement on my old 80 @ 175K miles that was turbo'd and never had any issues, nor does the current owner to my knowledge. I think a lot of people more familiar with engine building than me like the torque-to-yield "stretchy" head bolts Toyota uses. But with boost, especially if you intend to go over 8 psi, I'd just not want to take any chances and do what most "tuner" folks do that are boosting Supra's to crazy levels - use ARP head studs. I think I might have just gone with the Supra set from ARP than worry about the hassle associated with the Opel set that requires trimming the front two. The Opel set has the shaft section that is "under-cut" so it is a smaller diameter than the threaded portion. The stock Toyota bolts are the opposite, the shaft is the thickest part and the threads machined down from that. Now does that matter? I don't know. I can say the ARP studs are very tough metal to cut through - I took ~3/8" off the front two with a diamond cut-off wheel dremel and that took much longer than I anticipated.
also, I edited my post above re: Cometic to include the contact info.