- Thread starter
- #81
That just may be what has to be done by now. I've tried almost everything from hammering a 13mm (it's actually a 14mm) 12point onto it and trying that but it just will not get enough bite.
Motor tear-down and rebuild... Tear Down.
- Thread starter concretejungle
- Start date
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That just may be what has to be done by now. I've tried almost everything from hammering a 13mm (it's actually a 14mm) 12point onto it and trying that but it just will not get enough bite.
Try this...
Have a few ideas:-
What about a propane torch & PB Blaster and a combo of heating and cooling trying to break it loose.
How about an impact driver with the correct size socket ?
How about cutting a slot into the head with a cutting wheel/thin grinding wheel and getting in a large slot or philips screwdriver/impact driver ?
Good luck...
Have a few ideas:-
What about a propane torch & PB Blaster and a combo of heating and cooling trying to break it loose.
How about an impact driver with the correct size socket ?
How about cutting a slot into the head with a cutting wheel/thin grinding wheel and getting in a large slot or philips screwdriver/impact driver ?
Good luck...
- Thread starter
- #83
Tried all but the last option.
take a cold chisel to the side of it and drive it around. Get a nice deep dig in it and don't take no for an answer.
funny, i had the same prob on mine. i just went at it with a cutting/grinding disc. onec i cut the head of and grinding the little pieces of the head holding it in the flywheel came off and the got the bolt out by hand.
Just go to Sears and get a rounded bolt extractor. The extractor plus a mallet should work pretty well. I just got a kit and it was $19.95 - a pretty good deal considering the headaches it has prevented. Just my .02.
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- #87
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #88
Also, just got my cheapo camera in the mail today so i can start snapping more pics 
This also came in the mail!
This also came in the mail!
I just finished trying that. BUt i called uncle maybe too early!
let the gimp take a shot at it.
- Thread starter
- #90
- Thread starter
- #91
learn as you go is an understatement. This is a nice find! 
I guess a new plug is in order. Isn't this the coolant temp sensor?
I guess a new plug is in order. Isn't this the coolant temp sensor?
knock sensor
- Thread starter
- #93
Make sure you do things in order
I almost made a stupid mistake! I was getting ahead of myself. At first i was just going to take the block to the machine shop with the flywheel, crank pully, timing cover, oil pump, and oil pans still on.
Then after some advice i decided to remove all that but leave the crank, pistons in.
I started to remove the flywheel and was having a heck of a time (as shown above) getting one of the flywheel nuts off when i realized that there's probably no way to get the crank nut off with nothing to hold the crank in place. I could probably put a block of wood on the crankshaft somewhere, but figured keeping the flywheel on and using a piece of wood jamed in it to keep it from spinning is the right choice.
I guess more of this post is make sure you don't get ahead of yourself as you get excited when things start moving along.
I almost made a stupid mistake! I was getting ahead of myself. At first i was just going to take the block to the machine shop with the flywheel, crank pully, timing cover, oil pump, and oil pans still on.
Then after some advice i decided to remove all that but leave the crank, pistons in.
I started to remove the flywheel and was having a heck of a time (as shown above) getting one of the flywheel nuts off when i realized that there's probably no way to get the crank nut off with nothing to hold the crank in place. I could probably put a block of wood on the crankshaft somewhere, but figured keeping the flywheel on and using a piece of wood jamed in it to keep it from spinning is the right choice.
I guess more of this post is make sure you don't get ahead of yourself as you get excited when things start moving along.
good compressor, good impact, and sockets make things go smoother. (I just remembered that I think I buggered one or two while removing them as well.) Most of the tension of that bolt is under the head. grind/cut or pop it off and you can remove the remaining stud with your fingers.
That rear knock sensor is $130, I broke the same one while replacing a head gasket. If you can find used it will probably last forever and save at least $100. On my rig I rerouted my coolant lines and have the intention of removing the rear heater and lines one day. (I am also planning on replacing the transfer case input/output shaft seals and tranny output shaft seal/torque converter seal since things are available.)
That rear knock sensor is $130, I broke the same one while replacing a head gasket. If you can find used it will probably last forever and save at least $100. On my rig I rerouted my coolant lines and have the intention of removing the rear heater and lines one day. (I am also planning on replacing the transfer case input/output shaft seals and tranny output shaft seal/torque converter seal since things are available.)
Grind or file the rounded portion of the bolt head flat . Then try to see if any combination of sockets will fit it . If not use a large Vise grip on it. Put it on as tight as possible without giving yourself a hernia... then tap it around with a hammer, A 5lb. or heavier hammer... GOOD LUCK!
FYI I used a block of wood between the crank and block with a pry bar to get off the crakshaft bolt. My impact wouldn't do it...
FYI I used a block of wood between the crank and block with a pry bar to get off the crakshaft bolt. My impact wouldn't do it...
- Thread starter
- #96
compression questions
FINALLY got the motor, head and cams to the machine shop. WOW those guys are backed up!! He told me to expect 5-6 week turnaround!
We started chatting about what i wanted done and what the plans were for the motor and he asked me a few questions that i wasn't sure on.
First, what is the stock compression for this motor? I told him i thought it was 9.1: 1?
Second, he asked me why did i want to plane the pistons? He said in his experience if you want to turbo a motor he said to keep the compression around 7.5 to 8, so he was asking me if my reason for planing the pistons was to get the compression down? I didn't know the answer to that question i was just looking at what landtank did to his motor. He then mentioned that i could probably make up on the compression with a thicker head gasket instead of planing.
He asked me to go and ask the "gurus" what to do and get back to him.
I told him from most of my understanding that these motors are plenty capable of reliable power of around 8psi boost completely stock. He said that's one tuff motor if that's the case.
Input please?
FINALLY got the motor, head and cams to the machine shop. WOW those guys are backed up!! He told me to expect 5-6 week turnaround!
We started chatting about what i wanted done and what the plans were for the motor and he asked me a few questions that i wasn't sure on.
First, what is the stock compression for this motor? I told him i thought it was 9.1: 1?
Second, he asked me why did i want to plane the pistons? He said in his experience if you want to turbo a motor he said to keep the compression around 7.5 to 8, so he was asking me if my reason for planing the pistons was to get the compression down? I didn't know the answer to that question i was just looking at what landtank did to his motor. He then mentioned that i could probably make up on the compression with a thicker head gasket instead of planing.
He asked me to go and ask the "gurus" what to do and get back to him.
I told him from most of my understanding that these motors are plenty capable of reliable power of around 8psi boost completely stock. He said that's one tuff motor if that's the case.
Input please?
planing the pistons reduces the compression ratio with out effecting the cam timing. As soon as you change the distance between the crank and cam sprocket the cam timing has changed. I prefer to only effect that item to which I want to change. Also by planing the pistons you lower the reciprocating mass.
It has been posted that altering that distance by .010" is about the limit, I planed .100" off the top of my pistons.
It has been posted that altering that distance by .010" is about the limit, I planed .100" off the top of my pistons.
- Thread starter
- #98
OK, so if i am understanding correctly, for turbo applications you do want to lower the compression some. To do this you can either plane the piston or have a thicker head gasket?
So, before i make any decisions on the compression i should wait until they have worked the head to see how much if any material is removed from it?
One more question, if i do not immediately turbo the rig, is any of this compression lowering going to be a bad thing? In other words, it may take so long to get the motor back from the shop and with winter coming i don't know if i will just reassemble and put the motor back in the truck so i can drive it (haven't driven the truck in almost a year) or if i will take more time to turbo it now vs. waiting until spring to add the turbo?
So, before i make any decisions on the compression i should wait until they have worked the head to see how much if any material is removed from it?
One more question, if i do not immediately turbo the rig, is any of this compression lowering going to be a bad thing? In other words, it may take so long to get the motor back from the shop and with winter coming i don't know if i will just reassemble and put the motor back in the truck so i can drive it (haven't driven the truck in almost a year) or if i will take more time to turbo it now vs. waiting until spring to add the turbo?
I am putting my mark here so I get to track your fun 
. So you gonna give that block a bath? can't wait to see how shiny it looks
. So you gonna give that block a bath? can't wait to see how shiny it looks
You don't have to do anything as far as lowering the compression for any turbo which includes mine.
I did it because I'll probably start getting stupid with boost. But if you stay at around 10 psi it has worked for others.
