Motor tear-down and rebuild... Tear Down. (1 Viewer)

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Probably don't need this tip now. But if your impact gun doesn't seem to be getting it. Might look at the hose supplying the air. A lot of times the hose can be to small limiting the impact. If your using one of those tiny hoses it won't cut it.
 
yup, its a small hose(3/8).....on a smaller compressor :(

I got the bigger hose (5/8) out but didnt have enough connectors at the right sizes to match to compressor and tools. Being undertooled sucks as much as working in the gravel drive.

So tech ? does the length of hose affect the power of the accessory? any line loss of pressure?

I have a 15' 3/8'' line or a 50' 5/8'' line. Is there a distinct advantage for one of them?
 
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Well just a little update for this thread...

The block is done. Stopped by to check on it today and the machine shop owner told me that he hasn't seen a bottom end on a motor like this! I asked if the pistons made my butt look fat?.... lol

He was seriously amazed at how good of shape the motor was in with 225,000 miles on it. He said it's a testimate of good design and good maintenance. He thinks the consistent mobil 1 oil changes helped a lot.

He also said that he checked everything out and there was nothing wrong with the bottom end of the motor. He has no clue, so far, as to what could of caused my ticking other than a valve. HE said he even put the rods and such in a vice trying to feel for play and said they were rock solid.

He will be working on the head this week.

He also told me that he feels that this motor could handle boost no problem with the stock internals.

So this makes me feel good. :)
 
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I have given you credit a few times bro! :grinpimp:

I just needed to give myself a good excuse to rebuild the whole thing. :hillbilly::wrench:
 
have him take a good look at that oil pump bushing. I'm working with a guy down in WV and his had .050" play in it. I posted pics of mine and it not only allowed the gear to rattle it was cracked.

I would hate to see all this work go south because of it.
 
good point.

I was very adamant when i took the block in to show him the bushing and tell him "they do not make these and i will have to buy an entire block if this get's screwed up" and he seemed very clear on it. He said he was going to bake it and not hot tank it.

I'll have him measure it and check it out.

I am going to order from cdan: rings, rod and main bearings, pin bushings. He said the pin bushings didn't really need replacing but since i'm at it and he will only charge me $60 labor on them, it was my choice. So i'll probably get them done. Any opinion on that?
 
on my gear you could see rotational lines on it that looked like wear marks. When I tried to install it in the new bushing it wouldn't go. So I took some 600 grit emery and polished the shaft with it. The lines were gone and it slid in like a glove. I think that was material transfer from the bushing.
 
good point.

I was very adamant when i took the block in to show him the bushing and tell him "they do not make these and i will have to buy an entire block if this get's screwed up" and he seemed very clear on it. He said he was going to bake it and not hot tank it.

I'll have him measure it and check it out.

I am going to order from cdan: rings, rod and main bearings, pin bushings. He said the pin bushings didn't really need replacing but since i'm at it and he will only charge me $60 labor on them, it was my choice. So i'll probably get them done. Any opinion on that?

I'm assuming when you say 'pin bushing' you mean the bushing inserted into the smaller end of the conrod ?

I just did mine and I found it cheap insurance ! Couldn't imagine trying to save $85 (parts only) and not do them. If you're doing everything else, the pin bushings are all part of the whole !

Rgds..
 
QUESTION:

Should be getting everything back next week. So as i begin to reassemble, i have a decision to make: if i plan to run a turbo and the oil pan needs to be tapped for oil to the turbo, and if all the turbo parts are not accessible just yet, and i'm thinking maybe i'll just put it back together so i can drive it and be ready for a turbo to be added soon, can i go ahead and tap the oil pan and plug it?
 
I don't see why not. Probably a whole lot easier to have a bung welded on now rather than later when the pan is back in the truck.
 
learn something new every day....

Called up Cdan to order some parts today and asked for main bearings and rod bearings. He asked what number and what size? I said, ummm... the ones for a 95'.

These bearings are fit bearings and so you can't just order up a bearing set. Just stating for anyone who may be following this thread and plans on a total overhaul like i am to keep up with the bearings and let your machine shop guy know this as well.
 
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QUESTION:

So dealing with the main bearings and rod bearings and making sure that i get the correct fit bearing for each location. Looking at the FSM and consulting with the machinest at the machine shop i have a few questions.

He said he didn't take much at all off the crank. He said he took "a quarter of a thousands" off. So as we were calculating and checking on which bearings to order the FSM shows using plastigauge to measure clearances. He said that's not necessary since he didn't really take any off; just use the calculation in the FSM to calculate and then order the bearings. IE: Connecting Rod at #1 position had a "2" stamped in it and then crank shaft had a "1" stamped in it for the #1 connecting rod location, therefor i would order a 3 bearing? Correct?

My other question is the connecting rod had a series of numbers and letters stamped on them. What does the letter stand for? I couldn't find it in the FSM. Example: #1 connecting rod with the bearing cap bolted up to it, reading in direction from the cap to the rod/piston reads: 5,1,Q,2,B. Each rod/bearing had a different set of numbers and letters.

EDIT: this could be a while.... one of the bearings is on back order to Japan and i'm looking at 4-5 weeks! ugggggg Haven't driven the truck in well over 6 months if not 10!!!
 
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OK, so i need the one i linked, plus a 4An female? It would be much appreciated if you could tell me what sizes and i'll order them up. Plan on using the same turbo you are using.

Thanks in advance!

Trying to get everything lined up so when the bearings get here from Japan i can get er' done!
 
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Also got my injectors back from witchHunter Performance.

I was blown away at the quick turn-around! Put them in the mail and they were done and ready to be shipped back within 3 days.

Pulse variance before: 3.6%
Pulse variance after : 1.5%

my flows high/low before: 110-107.5
my flows high/low after : 111.5-110

No affiliation but would suggest these guys for sure. www.witchhunter.com
 
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OK, so i need the one i linked, plus a 4An female? It would be much appreciated if you could tell me what sizes and i'll order them up. Plan on using the same turbo you are using.

Thanks in advance!

Trying to get everything lined up so when the bearings get here from Japan i can get er' done!

to cut in the oil supply I used

1/8" BSPT to 1/8" NPT adapter - McMaster Part Number: 5832T111
1/8" NPT "T" - any Lowes or Home depot
-4 an to 1/8" NPT fitting - Summit Racing SUM-220446

and this is the bung I used on my oil pan - Summit Racing SUM-220062
It's aluminum, the one you linked to is steel and our upper pans are aluminum
 
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Thanks Landtank!! You didn't have to go the extra mile with part #s but i'm glad you did!

Guess i should start a new thread soon; maybe part 2, the rebuild!
 
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