Motor stops after driving and braking

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My SC 1998 uzj100 has ran great since I bought it 8 months ago. After the timing belt was replaced by dealer it has quit running 3 times. The last two times while I was braking to stop. The check engine light comes on before qutting.

Anyone ever had this issue? Where should i start?

Thank you
 
The first thing I would do is disconnect the battery for a minute and reconnect it. Then immediately go for a 15-20 minute drive on both highway and city streets. Sounds to me like your ECU needs calibration.
 
I would check for a vacuum leak.
 
The first thing I would do is disconnect the battery for a minute and reconnect it. Then immediately go for a 15-20 minute drive on both highway and city streets. Sounds to me like your ECU needs calibration.

Did you have this problem too?
 
Did you have this problem too?

Yes. It happened after I put a new battery in. I made the mistake of not running the car thru its paces, just letting it idle for a few minutes. The next time I drove it was hell on wheels. Every time I slowed down my truck would stall. Of course, it was morning rush hour in Houston.
 
Yes. It happened after I put a new battery in. I made the mistake of not running the car thru its paces, just letting it idle for a few minutes. The next time I drove it was hell on wheels. Every time I slowed down my truck would stall. Of course, it was morning rush hour in Houston.
Funny thing is : I put a new factory battery in the day I bought it and drove six hours home no problem. The problem started after the dealership replaced the timing belt.
 
Here is my semi educated guess...the dealer replaced the timing belt and the crank position sensor connection is loose.
When you brake it comes undone just enough to kill the engine.
The crank sensor is on the front of the engine underneath the crankshaft pulley. Which the dealer had to remove to replace the timing belt.
 
Here is my semi educated guess...the dealer replaced the timing belt and the crank position sensor connection is loose.
When you brake it comes undone just enough to kill the engine.
The crank sensor is on the front of the engine underneath the crankshaft pulley. Which the dealer had to remove to replace the timing belt.
What does the crank sensor look like?
 
I assume by your statement the timing belt was just done and than this issue started right after. I could give you a list of possible, but I'd just take back to Dealer.
 
x2 on the crankshaft position sensor. What most likely happened is that they did not tuck the wiring back correctly and the wiring chafed on the serpentine belt and now you have an intermittent issue.
 
I Checked the Crank sensor and the wire is not damaged. Could the sensor be?
Anyhow, I did a code check and I get a P0100(Maf and related components).
Well, I installed a new Oem Maf yesterday, new Oem air filter and thoroughly sterilized the air cleaner box and air tube and looked for vacuum leaks. Same thing - turns but no start. Last night I turned the key and BAM! Started right up first try and no P0100 code. Drove her for 45 minutes. Next I turned her off and she started up 3-4 times no problem. This morning she does not want to start. I get a p0100 code.
 
Two reason for no start; spark or fuel. During this no start condition: Remove a spark plug and test for spark (Remove EFI 20 amp fuse first for safety) while cranking.
 
Two reason for no start; spark or fuel. During this no start condition: Remove a spark plug and test for spark (Remove EFI 20 amp fuse first for safety) while cranking.

is it normal to smell fuel when cranking her over?
 

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