Most hellish job you've done on your 60/62

[GLTHFJ60]

Radiator had to pull half the front of the truck off to get it out

I know that's not how it's supposed to work. That must have really sucked.

 

[jvazquez53]

Replacing the starter on my 40 when I lived in Alaska in minus 35 and laying on my back, brrrr!!!

 

[cruiserjunktion]

swapping the 3fe/a440 for a 3b/h41

 

[chicago]

oil pan gasket replacement
it was my first "real" wrenching project, did it in a very generous guys driveway over the course of several days. It was just a beat-down, every time I thought I was "just about done", there was something more to do.

I think I replaced the timing cover gasket at the same time, and the Tstat (hey, while I'm here) and maybe something else as well.

Taking on something like that is a big job and a great way to get to know your vehicle (and to get over the fear of working on something unknown).

Big thanks again to Tom Boyd, who was generous enough to loan us the driveway and some tools.

OOOOOOO...yeah!!!!
That was a NASTY one for sure!

Chicago

 

[brownbear]

Haven't done that much work on the 60 yet but by far the worst has been replacing the rear frame inner C channels. Have to remove the spare tire, gas tank, and then much dirty work getting the rusty channels out. Cutting out the rivets is a real PITA no matter how you do it. Recently did a post on this job with pictures.

I've done lots on my 60. But I gotta say the C channels are the worst job. Grinding all the rivets and prying out the rusty s*** was no fun. Then gettin some new steel channels made and bolting it in, drilling lots of 1/2 holes. No fun.

My second is installing the shift boot rubbers. They fawking suck.

 

[kling-on]

I know that's not how it's supposed to work. That must have really sucked.

I couldnt see any other way ... in my 40 it took 45 min the 60 was @6 hours

 

[ElliottB]

I think this picture says it all.

 

[Trapper50cal]

at least its easier to get to the heatercore...

 

[5280Hawk]

Ive done the oil pan gasket, knuckle job, body mounts, rear drum rebuild, suspension, ect.

The sh*tyest job of all of them was pulling those damn rusty frame channels in the back!

 

[brian]

air chissels make short work of those rivits....and we're talking something like harbor freight deals.
i had the heads off both side in less than half an hour, plus the chissle pounding away loosened the rivit bodies up. straight punch and a hammer and they poped right out. the old channels all but fell out.

 

[fj60dave]

ditto...

doctorjj, u got dat rite. i ended up purchasing a real transmission floor jack and that did the trick (had to do the clutch so, everything got some attention..transmission, transfer case, misc. hoses...purchase new tools...typical project). also, did the hillbilly engine overhaul with hood on but purchased a cherry picker from craigs list for 100...do it. as i speak, doing the rear differential (which is out) but am still working on the rear axel bearings. all posts here are appreciated. there have been some down moments, but my most recent (bad memory) issue was removing the stuck rear brake drums from the 1987 FJ60. Steps: Remove rubber plug on upper back side of hub (after tires are off). use a brake adjusting tool to push back the metal spring clip while you remove all the tension using the star wheel...easier said than done. there is a sweet spot where you can feel the spring push back. spin the wheel so that the visible threads disappear. work from the outside of the rim while using a mirror and light. THEN, clear the two threaded holes (semi-floating axle) by screwing a 8mmX1.25 bolt about 2 inches long (IIRC) in until it stops and then remove. spray liberal amounts of nuclear-bust-it-loose product in both holes and around the "seam" between the drum and axle hub...which appears to be one. spin wheel slowly...wait. repeat. then wail on it with a rubber mallet while rotating and then begin to tighten both bolts at about the same pace, and repeat the wailing. at some point you think there is enough tension to kill somebody and will hear a pop. a few more turns and whacks and off she comes...if you're lucky! as you can see, this is too fresh in my mind...all the problems with getting the transmission and transfer case back in place have faded....

 

[brownbear]

air chissels make short work of those rivits....and we're talking something like harbor freight deals.
i had the heads off both side in less than half an hour, plus the chissle pounding away loosened the rivit bodies up. straight punch and a hammer and they poped right out. the old channels all but fell out.

I tried air chisels, oxy/act.... grinders... you name. Even the rivets once fully gound off on both sides still would not pop out till I heated them glowing. I guess all frames depending on where you are might be a different job.

In the end I used a pry bar to extract the channels, it was a twisted mess when I finished.

 

[eric2381]

Heater core. No fun.

 

[sandcruiser]

My rule of thumb is that any time I see "rubber mallet" I reach for a 2lb sledge. 9 times out of 10, it works just fine. Once in a while, catastrophic destruction.

In general, anything on the 60 that can't handle a whack with the sledge was underbuilt from the factory (or is too rusty).

Next time you do rear drums: go big or go home

doctorjj, u got dat rite. i ended up purchasing a real transmission floor jack and that did the trick (had to do the clutch so, everything got some attention..transmission, transfer case, misc. hoses...purchase new tools...typical project). also, did the hillbilly engine overhaul with hood on but purchased a cherry picker from craigs list for 100...do it. as i speak, doing the rear differential (which is out) but am still working on the rear axel bearings. all posts here are appreciated. there have been some down moments, but my most recent (bad memory) issue was removing the stuck rear brake drums from the 1987 FJ60. Steps: Remove rubber plug on upper back side of hub (after tires are off). use a brake adjusting tool to push back the metal spring clip while you remove all the tension using the star wheel...easier said than done. there is a sweet spot where you can feel the spring push back. spin the wheel so that the visible threads disappear. work from the outside of the rim while using a mirror and light. THEN, clear the two threaded holes (semi-floating axle) by screwing a 8mmX1.25 bolt about 2 inches long (IIRC) in until it stops and then remove. spray liberal amounts of nuclear-bust-it-loose product in both holes and around the "seam" between the drum and axle hub...which appears to be one. spin wheel slowly...wait. repeat. then wail on it with a rubber mallet while rotating and then begin to tighten both bolts at about the same pace, and repeat the wailing. at some point you think there is enough tension to kill somebody and will hear a pop. a few more turns and whacks and off she comes...if you're lucky! as you can see, this is too fresh in my mind...all the problems with getting the transmission and transfer case back in place have faded....

 

[Butt Ugly Chuck]

.... pulling the head without taking off the hood and no cherry picker.

Ha! I did that. Never again!

My worst was (is) getting the damn stock skid plate back on with a lame arsenal of tools on hand. Broke two bolts putting it back on, then a Harbor Fright drill bit getting them out. I quit when the tap I was using broke off. It’s still in there and the skid plate sits on my garage floor .
Butt