- Thread starter
- #41
ok, I will get pics of the knuckles tomorrow.
More SOA Q's before I start my build over christmas break
- Thread starter Randy88FJ62
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #42
More pics for clarification:
zuluzeugma
SILVER Star
More pics for clarification:
Those look like standard All-Pro High-Steer arms to me.
- Thread starter
- #44
They are. Hy-Steer was included with the axle purchase as stated on the first post.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
I spent some more time looking at your pics. Every single thing on the original truck is done poorly! In the rear, i recommend you use your existing rear axle. The perches on the new one are too short, and the e-brake is not done well. I would use your existing brakes (the drums work fine), and later, after it's all up and driving, take on the disc brake swap as a separate project. You need to weld perches anyway, and on your existing axle it will be easier and you know you will have a working e-brake. Remember that virtually every organized run with a tech inspection requires a working emergency brake.
The high steer arms are probably usable. That saves you a bit of cash right there, but have someone familiar with that set up make sure they are not the cast arms that Marlin talks about Marlin Crawler
I am not familiar with All Pro's older stuff and can't comment. Their new stuff looks bomber.
The drag link and tie rod do not look usable at all. Toss and get new. Don't mess with questionable steering components.
On the front axle, you need to start over. New perches, new shock mounts, new brake line mounts, knuckle rebuild all of it. Do a cut and turn. Use the diff with arb and the inner axles/longfields. Use whichever housing is cleaner. I would cut off all the old work by the previous owner. It just is poorly executed and unworthy of a nice build up.
This would be a good time for 6 stud knuckles. At least consider it.
The shocks are too short, you'll want new ones. A good combo is Rancho RS99012 in the front, and Rancho RS99112 in the rear. If you have any $ left over, maybe Billsteins instead of Ranchos and share the part #s you go with. I want to do that!
The high steer arms are probably usable. That saves you a bit of cash right there, but have someone familiar with that set up make sure they are not the cast arms that Marlin talks about Marlin Crawler
I am not familiar with All Pro's older stuff and can't comment. Their new stuff looks bomber.
The drag link and tie rod do not look usable at all. Toss and get new. Don't mess with questionable steering components.
On the front axle, you need to start over. New perches, new shock mounts, new brake line mounts, knuckle rebuild all of it. Do a cut and turn. Use the diff with arb and the inner axles/longfields. Use whichever housing is cleaner. I would cut off all the old work by the previous owner. It just is poorly executed and unworthy of a nice build up.
This would be a good time for 6 stud knuckles. At least consider it.
The shocks are too short, you'll want new ones. A good combo is Rancho RS99012 in the front, and Rancho RS99112 in the rear. If you have any $ left over, maybe Billsteins instead of Ranchos and share the part #s you go with. I want to do that!
Yeah...What a mess!
Good you scored some other cool gear outta that pile though.
Im frickin excited for you dude.
Chicago
Good you scored some other cool gear outta that pile though.
Im frickin excited for you dude.
Chicago
- Thread starter
- #47
The guy who built it did it all from scratch in 3 weeks. It's not quality work as you can see. The worst part to me was the sad attempt to use old steering linkages as a traction bar. I agree that a fresh rebuild would be safe and proper.
How long does it take to tear an axle down and rebuild the components into my existing housing? Roughly.
How long does it take to tear an axle down and rebuild the components into my existing housing? Roughly.
zuluzeugma
SILVER Star
If you've done it before, I few hours. Your first time - a weekend 
Its really not that bad... But it will take you longer the first time. If you're going to ditch those steering arms for 6-stud knuckles, I have first dibs.
Its really not that bad... But it will take you longer the first time. If you're going to ditch those steering arms for 6-stud knuckles, I have first dibs.
- Thread starter
- #49
The six stud knuckles are awesome but there is some point where I have to eventually draw the line. I can't sink my savings into this. 
After the build I will see what I want to keep off the second set of axles as spares and what i am going to sell. For now I'm concentrating on a parts list so I can order soon.
After the build I will see what I want to keep off the second set of axles as spares and what i am going to sell. For now I'm concentrating on a parts list so I can order soon.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
A few hours. That's the least of it. You have to tear it all down anyway to do a cut and turn, so no big deal. You have to replace the axle seals after you reweld the knuckle as the welding heat will probably damage the seal which is right there. Go back and read Chicago's build and all the trials he went through.
Here is an order of attack:
Bare front axle housing-really bare-cleaned of all perches, stops, brackets, brake lines etc Pull out diff to make it easier to handle
Set under the truck with unwelded perches-experiment and choose pinion angle. The PS perch will have to be creatively cut to fit arround the upper part of the differential
Weld perches--This is fairly critical to get right as it freezes your pinion angle forever
Mount axle on springs, look at caster angle.
Cut and turn to set caster angle-weld up the "cut"
Rebuild knuckle on the axle housing
With knuckle in place(so you know where the stops go), weld in steering stops
Build on the rest of the axle components-inners, hubs, lockouts etc
Weld on the brake line mounts and shock mounts
Final assembly
That should keep you busy a few weeks!
What do you plan to use for springs? If stock, beef them up with some of the extra leaves you got on the parts truck.
Post up the step by step pics-I got so wrapped up in mine, I basically forgot to get the pics.
- Thread starter
- #51
Here is my list so far. I need help with some of the specifics.
Things I need to Order:
Replace ARB O-Rings in Diffs when regearing to 4.88’s
CnT front axle
Ruff Stuff Spring Perches
Front Shock Hoops for longer shocks
Marlin’s Knuckle Gussets w/ shock mounts
80’s Series Pittman Arm
Replace Drag Link and Tie Rod
Marlin C Inner Axle Seals
Traction Bar
Notch Trany Crossmember
New poly spring bushings
Differential Gaskets
Brake Lines / Mounts
I need specifics on the drag link and tie rod for a SOA rig. Cheap place for brake lines? Are there any specific parts for brake mounts or is that just steel, common sense and welding? When redoing the front axle what else do i need other than the knuckle seals? Do I need a full rebuild kit and where is it best ordered from?
Things I need to Order:
Replace ARB O-Rings in Diffs when regearing to 4.88’s
CnT front axle
Ruff Stuff Spring Perches
Front Shock Hoops for longer shocks
Marlin’s Knuckle Gussets w/ shock mounts
80’s Series Pittman Arm
Replace Drag Link and Tie Rod
Marlin C Inner Axle Seals
Traction Bar
Notch Trany Crossmember
New poly spring bushings
Differential Gaskets
Brake Lines / Mounts
I need specifics on the drag link and tie rod for a SOA rig. Cheap place for brake lines? Are there any specific parts for brake mounts or is that just steel, common sense and welding? When redoing the front axle what else do i need other than the knuckle seals? Do I need a full rebuild kit and where is it best ordered from?
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
You need a full knuckle kit-just get one from Marlin or Mudrak or Cruiseroutfitters or Mark's or.......
You don't need the gussets unless you want them.
Don't preorder too much stuff. The problem is, you don't know what you really need, until you need it. Much of what you are doing requires custom parts. Making the brakelines for instance, is basically the last step. The traction bar is also the last step. You will spend more than you think. Focus on doing it right, not cheap. Ford towers will work well and that may be the place to save a few $$, but all the cool kids want hoops.
It would be smart to have the steering linkage on hand, so you can put it together and still move the truck around. You need to decide 80 ends or 1 ton ends before you start. It looks like the histeer arms are built for 80 ends, so that's a good place to start.
You need a plan to mount the rear shocks, and you need the shocks. The best way is to do your build and then flex and measure for opend and closed measurements. Then pick appropriate shocks. The ones I listed though, will work. Chicago also went through his measurments in the build thread that he did.
I may be able to source an 80 Pittman, I'll let you know.
Good luck, I can't wait to see this get off the ground(literally).
pismojim
the Dude abides...
Marlin has 1.25" X .250" DOM tubing tie rod/relay rod made to your custom length ready for (1-Ton) 80 Series rod ends. 
landcruisnman
1972 FJ55 "Iron Giant"
Did you use stock heighth springs on your Spring over? I want to do it on my 55 and was wondering if I needed to cut and turn my axle.
Pat
Carlsbad,CA
Pat
Carlsbad,CA
- Thread starter
- #55
I am still collecting parts. I have not done it yet. I plan on adding a leaf in the packs. Some have left stock springs for more flex at the cost of wearng out springs prematurely.
Ill say that the traction bar took A LOT more effort to build than I thought it would, primarily due to the x member location.
As Cdrew mentioned...dont get yourself too hung up on the time in which youre doing your build, or bogged down by the amount of things that need to get done. It really is more important to focus on the quality and take your time. Not that you wouldnt, but....
I left the traction bar project for months.
Also, now is a really good time to get everything cleaned and purdy and painted.
Marlin is a good "one stop shop" for the tie rod/ drag link, Rode ends, pittman arm, knuckle kit (if theyre in stock), and of course the HD seals.
Ford towers are nice, and theyre cheap...just to keep in mind to save some $$$
Looking forward to the build!
Chicago
As Cdrew mentioned...dont get yourself too hung up on the time in which youre doing your build, or bogged down by the amount of things that need to get done. It really is more important to focus on the quality and take your time. Not that you wouldnt, but....
I left the traction bar project for months.
Also, now is a really good time to get everything cleaned and purdy and painted.
Marlin is a good "one stop shop" for the tie rod/ drag link, Rode ends, pittman arm, knuckle kit (if theyre in stock), and of course the HD seals.
Ford towers are nice, and theyre cheap...just to keep in mind to save some $$$
Looking forward to the build!
Chicago
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Me too, when does it start?
Expecting daily photo updates.
Before it starts you can do the grunt work of cleaning up the axles, and figuring out the spring packs. That keeps things from bogging down when the heavy work starts. Chicago's thread is a good example of how the updates get posted.
Just posting to tag along. Looking forward to the progress!
- Thread starter
- #59
I will be diassebling the parts rig next weekend. This weekend is Death Valley trip to the Saline Hot Springs.
- Thread starter
- #60
When doing AAL's for a pring over how many stock leaves do people add? I will be carrying a lot of weight (ARB w/ winch in front and 3 gas cans and spare tire on the rear.) Any good threads on AAL process of stripping down the leaves and assembling them? I know there are a few things involved.
