More SOA Q's before I start my build over christmas break

[Dirtgypsy]

54mm hub socket

I have this tool that I use for the c-clips. it may not be the "best" per se but it works well for many applications:

Detail Page for 44900 Lock Ring Pliers - Lisle Corporation


just FYI the wheel bearings front and rear are the same for the FF and stock front. Also the rear wheel seal can be found at Car Quest Auto Parts very nice quality and great price.

good luck.


clint

 

[Randy88FJ62]

I'm sure the 54mm socket is expensive. Is this socket reused when switching broken axle shafts on the trail? Just gaging whether I should buy it or borrow one.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I'm sure the 54mm socket is expensive. Is this socket reused when switching broken axle shafts on the trail? Just gaging whether I should buy it or borrow one.

If you keep messing with Land Cruisers, you will need this socket. You can get a 2 1/8 at sears, or a real 54mm from Cruiserdan.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

If you keep messing with Land Cruisers, you will need this socket. You can get a 2 1/8 at sears, or a real 54mm from Cruiserdan.

That's what I needed to know. I'll order one today.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Sears has a 2 1/8 socket for $27 but has the 54 mm socket for lots more $$$$ wtf?!

I'm also assuming that a 6 pt socket is better than a 12 pt for this application. Correct?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Sears has a 2 1/8 socket for $27 but has the 54 mm socket for lots more $$$$ wtf?!

I'm also assuming that a 6 pt socket is better than a 12 pt for this application. Correct?

It doesn't really matter in these big sizes. I personally like the Sears 2 1/8. It's 3/4 drive though, so you also need a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter. It's nice and heavy feeling, and fit perfectly down into the hub to engage the spindle nut.

The OEM tool from Toyota is about $25 and is 1/2 drive. It's made by OTC isf that helps you locate one. I got one from Cruiserdan a year or two ago for my trail bag. The socket sold by SOR is really thin wall crap so avoid that one. It bends out of shape after 1 or 2 uses.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

It doesn't really matter in these big sizes. I personally like the Sears 2 1/8. It's 3/4 drive though, so you also need a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter. It's nice and heavy feeling, and fit perfectly down into the hub to engage the spindle nut.

The OEM tool from Toyota is about $25 and is 1/2 drive. It's made by OTC isf that helps you locate one. I got one from Cruiserdan a year or two ago for my trail bag. The socket sold by SOR is really thin wall crap so avoid that one. It bends out of shape after 1 or 2 uses.

CDan does not have any in stock. So I stuck sourcing it at Sears. Guess I'll grab the 2 1/8 then.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

CDan does not have any in stock. So I stuck sourcing it at Sears. Guess I'll grab the 2 1/8 then.

How about Slee?

Slee - Drivetrain - Drive Shafts

 

[Randy88FJ62]

How about Slee?

Slee - Drivetrain - Drive Shafts

Good find. I'll give him a call.

 

[chicago]

FWIW...
I have the 2 1/8 in socket form Sears, and its worked fine. However, that slee socket looks to be a pretty good deal.
I DO carry it in my tool bag with me in the rig.
I got mine for 35 bucks here in Reno and I gasped at that price, but its worth it.
I didnt recall the size, so I posted my generic "Big A$$" socket knowing that someone knew it.
Didnt wanna go diggin through my tool bag at just that moment.

Lazy bastard!

Chicago

 

[chicago]

54mm hub socket

I have this tool that I use for the c-clips. it may not be the "best" per se but it works well for many applications:

Detail Page for 44900 Lock Ring Pliers - Lisle Corporation


just FYI the wheel bearings front and rear are the same for the FF and stock front. Also the rear wheel seal can be found at Car Quest Auto Parts very nice quality and great price.

good luck.


clint

OOOOOO, those are NICE!

Chicago

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Disassembling spare set of axles tonight and I was wondering if I can take the 3rd member out first to get rid of a lot of the weight off the jack stands? Or, do I have to move the shafts out a bit first to remove the 3rd member. I have all the tools, now it's just time and lots of elbow grease.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Gotta remove the axleshafts to be able to remove the thirds on either the front or rear axle.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

You have to pull the shafts first.

Open the cover

Pull the pin that holds the pinion shaft-insert the ARB tool that looks like an allen wrench with threads and pull out the inner part of the pin.

Rotate the assembly slightly and line up the pinion shaft so it slides out toward you.

Carefully slide it out and catch the inner retainer block/ring

Push 1 axle shaft in and carefully remove the c-clip (don't drop it in or you have to fish it out later)

Do the same on the other side

Pull the axle shafts all the way out

At this point I would re-assemble the diff hand tight just so you don't loose any of the bits or forget how they go in. (I lost the heavy ring that goes with the retainer block once)

Now you are ready to pull the differential.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Thanks. Going to Sears to order brass drift set, seal puller, and 10mm flare wrench after work. I have almost everything else. It's amazing how time consuming this stuff is but definitely worth it. I guess the more times you do it the quicker you get.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

I attempted to tear down the entire front axle yesterday afternoon. I got the pass side knuckle assy disassembled and the birfield is pretty thrashed. This birfield is the stronger one, I forget the name. How much is it to buy replacements and who sells them again? I want to say (bobby longfields?) but I want to be sure. All I know is that it’s gonna be more coin to get these axles in like new shape.

I ran into a problem on the driver’s side. The bottom brake caliper bolt is inaccessible. The calipers are different, they say SSBC on the sides of them and they are bigger than stock ones. The caliper body actually blocks me from getting a socket or wrench around the actual bolt. How the F**k do I get the bolt out without wrecking the thread in the knuckle housing? Any ideas on this one? I will be taking pictures after work today to show my current debacle. Anyone have more information on these SSBC brakes? I want to get replacement pads for them.

Once I get both inner axles out and knuckles apart does the 3rd member just pull straight out? For reference there is an ARB locker in there.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I attempted to tear down the entire front axle yesterday afternoon. I got the pass side knuckle assy disassembled and the birfield is pretty thrashed. This birfield is the stronger one, I forget the name. How much is it to buy replacements and who sells them again? I want to say (bobby longfields?) but I want to be sure. All I know is that it’s gonna be more coin to get these axles in like new shape.

I ran into a problem on the driver’s side. The bottom brake caliper bolt is inaccessible. The calipers are different, they say SSBC on the sides of them and they are bigger than stock ones. The caliper body actually blocks me from getting a socket or wrench around the actual bolt. How the F**k do I get the bolt out without wrecking the thread in the knuckle housing? Any ideas on this one? I will be taking pictures after work today to show my current debacle. Anyone have more information on these SSBC brakes? I want to get replacement pads for them.

Once I get both inner axles out and knuckles apart does the 3rd member just pull straight out? For reference there is an ARB locker in there.

Wow-your deal of the century is turning into a nightmare.

Longfields are what you want. If you have $$, get the "super set" of 30 spline longs-the super set implies it comes with the inner axles as well.

I have no idea what calipers you have. Just use the one on your existing truck.

The third member does just pull out ones you pull the inner axles. It can be stuck on really tight though.

Post up pics of the birf and why it is "trashed".

GL

 

[Randy88FJ62]

I will post pics later today. Trust me, the birfield is trashed... I don't see it as a nightmate yet. It's just money and I end up getting to learn how to work on everything which will be beneficial for trail repairs.\

The oversize bolt head on the brake caliper is my main problem now.

How do I get the inner shaft off the birfield? I got the c-clip off, do I just pull harder? I've seen people whack these around but I thought that was just to get the c-clip off. Since I have that already off I assume it should come away clean?

 

[Dirtgypsy]

I attempted to tear down the entire front axle yesterday afternoon. I got the pass side knuckle assy disassembled and the birfield is pretty thrashed. This birfield is the stronger one, I forget the name. How much is it to buy replacements and who sells them again? I want to say (bobby longfields?) but I want to be sure. All I know is that it’s gonna be more coin to get these axles in like new shape.

I ran into a problem on the driver’s side. The bottom brake caliper bolt is inaccessible. The calipers are different, they say SSBC on the sides of them and they are bigger than stock ones. The caliper body actually blocks me from getting a socket or wrench around the actual bolt. How the F**k do I get the bolt out without wrecking the thread in the knuckle housing? Any ideas on this one? I will be taking pictures after work today to show my current debacle. Anyone have more information on these SSBC brakes? I want to get replacement pads for them.

Once I get both inner axles out and knuckles apart does the 3rd member just pull straight out? For reference there is an ARB locker in there.

If the birf is indeed the "upgraded one" then look for a couple of things first is the "longfeild" name stamped in the flat part of the birf itself:

the other thing to look for is the overall size. I believe that the chromo's are a bit larger than stock.

If it is a longfeild then you may be able to get a replacment for free or a very reasonable price as they have one of the industries best warranties. just call them. otherwise they are $630 shipped.

I will post pics later today. Trust me, the birfield is trashed... I don't see it as a nightmate yet. It's just money and I end up getting to learn how to work on everything which will be beneficial for trail repairs.\

The oversize bolt head on the brake caliper is my main problem now.

How do I get the inner shaft off the birfield? I got the c-clip off, do I just pull harder? I've seen people whack these around but I thought that was just to get the c-clip off. Since I have that already off I assume it should come away clean?

like cruiserdrew said on the SSBC (stainless steel brake corp) caliper just ace it and go back to stock. Can you drill out the bolt and get an easy out on it?

As far as the Birf removal:

here is a good tech article

Axle overhaul, Part 3

I don't think it will just fall apart. I am sure you still need some motivation to get it off. Please post some pics of where you are at and the issues.

Keep plugging a way at it and stay positive. It can be frustrating but will be well worth it in the end!

clint

 

[Dirtgypsy]

Also I didn't hear from you and assume you were busy with your build so here is the part #'s for the towers:

E5TZ*18183*A

I paid like $14 Ea. with a small discount at the local dealer. Funny thing is the salesman was "You building a Jeep or something?" I had a good laugh.

clint