- Thread starter
- #101
I found the longfield website this morning and after looking at the real ones I think mine are standard birfs so I might upgrade to the longfields. The P.O. says that the inner shafts are the stronger chromo replacements but I haven’t figured out how to I.D. them yet. For all I know I’m getting smoke blown up my you know what.
The knuckle was pretty torn up inside with gouging on the top and bottom where the bearings meet the bowl. If the bearings were eaten up on the top and bottom of the knuckle does that tell me something I should be aware of like improper alignment which may affect seal and bearing longevity? Maybe I need the SST to make sure the shims are doing their job correctly?
I talked to a guy at work here today and he said I should buy an extra socket and turn it down a little to get it to fit between the caliper housing. I’m going to try that before doing anything more destructive like welding a bolt to it to get it out. Worst situation is a broken socket and wasted time.
Why should I be scratching the SSBC calipers? They are billet aluminum so they should dissipate heat better, they have bigger area pistons and the billet aluminum shouldn’t flex as much as cast steel so there should be less inconsistency when braking which should provide better stopping power. My stock axle which is currently on my truck needs a new rotor since my caliper came loose on my last trip to death valley and pitted the crap out of it. Either way I need to buy new brake components.
The rear axle has a disk brake conversion so I’m guessing that my LSPV won’t be needed since the P.O. parts truck didn’t use one with the 4 wheel disk brake setup. Not sure if my master cylinder size is correct to handle all four disks. Something else to consider as my SOA moves like a snail.
I will post pics of my status today in a few hours so people can help evaluate my status and point me in the right direction. Taking apart axles is fun and I’m glad I’m doing this.
If anyone wants to lend me the SST knuckle tool in a few weeks that would be awesome so I can make sure everything is assembled per spec.
The knuckle was pretty torn up inside with gouging on the top and bottom where the bearings meet the bowl. If the bearings were eaten up on the top and bottom of the knuckle does that tell me something I should be aware of like improper alignment which may affect seal and bearing longevity? Maybe I need the SST to make sure the shims are doing their job correctly?
I talked to a guy at work here today and he said I should buy an extra socket and turn it down a little to get it to fit between the caliper housing. I’m going to try that before doing anything more destructive like welding a bolt to it to get it out. Worst situation is a broken socket and wasted time.
Why should I be scratching the SSBC calipers? They are billet aluminum so they should dissipate heat better, they have bigger area pistons and the billet aluminum shouldn’t flex as much as cast steel so there should be less inconsistency when braking which should provide better stopping power. My stock axle which is currently on my truck needs a new rotor since my caliper came loose on my last trip to death valley and pitted the crap out of it. Either way I need to buy new brake components.
The rear axle has a disk brake conversion so I’m guessing that my LSPV won’t be needed since the P.O. parts truck didn’t use one with the 4 wheel disk brake setup. Not sure if my master cylinder size is correct to handle all four disks. Something else to consider as my SOA moves like a snail.
I will post pics of my status today in a few hours so people can help evaluate my status and point me in the right direction. Taking apart axles is fun and I’m glad I’m doing this.
If anyone wants to lend me the SST knuckle tool in a few weeks that would be awesome so I can make sure everything is assembled per spec.
