- Thread starter
- #141
The brake banjo bolts that connect the brake line to the caliper bypassing the need for a small hardline at the knuckle.
More SOA Q's before I start my build over christmas break
- Thread starter Randy88FJ62
- Start date
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why not just buy new lines? I picked up ss lines frpm spector for $50 and they are very nice quality. I am also sure if you took your lines to a local place you can get them same day. My problem was time and the fact I am 45 minutes from civilization.
if you are set on the banjo stuff the numbers are in kaviks thread
Clint
if you are set on the banjo stuff the numbers are in kaviks thread
Clint
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
That's a totally unnecessary item.
Either get some made, or just use some rubber brake lines that have the same fittings but are a litttle longer than stock. I ran my 40 just using a longer rubber line for years.
You live in LA so there will be a shop (probably dozens of shops) that can make up appropriate lines. Check this for an idea:
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Randy, ORME Bros. in Northridge (Parthenia and Reseda) makes all my funky lines. A/C, brake, hi-pressure p/s lines, hard lines, you name it. Turn around is typically while you wait. Just depends what else they have going on. Personality wise they are doorknobs but they know thier s***.
- Thread starter
- #145
Ok, I'm not set on the banjos but I like them because they kept the line farther away from the ground. Not a lot but I liked it. I can see that it's overboard and I would rather have something closer to stock so trail fixes and spare parts are interchangable among other wagons. That being said, how do you suppose I get the SOA rig over to the brake shop without brake lines? Use the old ones and drive over?
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Best thing to do is give them what you want on both ends and then the overall length. They can make them from there.
ntsqd
technerd
I buy the -3 ends, -3 adapters, and the -3 bulk hose from Orme Bros and make my own brake hoses. Not that hard (once you figure how to not poke the ends of the SS braid into your fingers!) and then I can make them 'on the truck.'
I also order one extra of each part number, a couple extra ferrules, and enough extra hose to make the longest hose on the truck. That way I can make field repairs if necessary and it all fits in a ziplock sandwich bag.
I also order one extra of each part number, a couple extra ferrules, and enough extra hose to make the longest hose on the truck. That way I can make field repairs if necessary and it all fits in a ziplock sandwich bag.
Ill make a second for the diff guard!
Ive decided to go with the pipe cap for this after my last run a few weeks ago.
I took a good shot to the front of the diff that got me a little nervous. Ill be doing that in the next couple of weeks or so before the wheeling season hits full swing.
Its cheap insurance if nothing else, but that IMO is now a MUST!
Chicago
Ive decided to go with the pipe cap for this after my last run a few weeks ago.
I took a good shot to the front of the diff that got me a little nervous. Ill be doing that in the next couple of weeks or so before the wheeling season hits full swing.
Its cheap insurance if nothing else, but that IMO is now a MUST!
Chicago
BTW, I set my front brake lines up as Drew did on the front, but I left the hard lines basically in their stock location.
I opted for the NAPA flex lines. Theyre cheap, I carry spares and if by some chance I dont have any, NAPA's are usually close by (reasonably) depending where youre at.
For the record, Ive never had any issues with them...
Chicago
I opted for the NAPA flex lines. Theyre cheap, I carry spares and if by some chance I dont have any, NAPA's are usually close by (reasonably) depending where youre at.
For the record, Ive never had any issues with them...
Chicago
ntsqd
technerd
I've not had any issues with the built-up hoses, but then the accumulated miles on them has yet to be very significant. That is about to change as both my Mini and my 6T will shortly be sporting them in all locations. The Mini has had the rear already in place for maybe 25k miles. What prompted the idea of carrying the bits to allow a field repair/replace was a trip with LocosMocos to pit the Baja 1000 in 2001.
I guess I'd better look into the diff guard thing.
I guess I'd better look into the diff guard thing.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Chicago-I'll take the other half of that diff hat if it isn't spoken for.....Let me know $$ and happy to share costs and your plasma cutter.
Butt Ugly Chuck
Fish Biologist
Been a while since I checked this thread....
Check with orangefj45. He was working on custom kits a while back.
Butt
- Thread starter
- #154
Good idea. If he has a brake line kit then I would go for it. It's kind of small potatoes though, not sure he would be into that stuff unless he was doing the SOA at his shop.
-Randy
UPDATE:
Sitting at LAX waiting to go to Japan for 1 week business trip (and see Mot
.)
- Thread starter
- #155
Question about front shocks: How do I know where to weld the front ford upper shock mounts? What do I need to consider to maximize articulation, droop, and ride? I plan on using Marlin Crawler's axle gussets which include the lower shock mounts.
Question on the brake line issue. Noticed yesterday when pulling apart the rear axle on an 80 that the rear caliper uses a banjo bolt and ~6" long soft line to the hard line on the rear axle. Could this bolt and soft line be used on 60's front calipers?
ntsqd
technerd
A banjo fitting requires a machined flat spot around the fluid port for the crush washer to seal on. I do not recall either the FJ or the 4rnnr caliper having this feature. Could put it in with a file, but filings issues aside, it also needs to be perpendicular to the hole within a fairly close tolerance. It could be done by someone sufficiently talented, but I wouldn't recommend it. A straight adapter with a 90* hose end is pretty tight to the caliper body.
The way that I was taught to set the upper shock mounts is so that with the axle fully bottomed out , 1/2 way compressing the bump-stop) on that side, and the other side hanging in space that the damper is still ~1/4 shy of being bottomed itself.
The way that I was taught to set the upper shock mounts is so that with the axle fully bottomed out , 1/2 way compressing the bump-stop) on that side, and the other side hanging in space that the damper is still ~1/4 shy of being bottomed itself.
- Thread starter
- #158
ntsqd,
Could you explain that a little more? I'm understanding from your statement that I need to cycle the suspension in order to measure the mount placement. Just wanting more details.
If anyone else could also explain why they chose their angles and palcement I would appreciate it.
To keep in mind, I will be going for a low SOA with stock shackles and stock FJ60 springs.
Could you explain that a little more? I'm understanding from your statement that I need to cycle the suspension in order to measure the mount placement. Just wanting more details.
If anyone else could also explain why they chose their angles and palcement I would appreciate it.
To keep in mind, I will be going for a low SOA with stock shackles and stock FJ60 springs.
ntsqd
technerd
Presumably you've chosen shocks with enough travel that they are not going to limit your travel. Hitting the limit of the shock's travel before the rest of the system limits out is usually a bad thing. The worst case is at full compression. Rarely does full extension happen at high velocity, but full compression nearly always happens at high velocity.
High velocity full extension is pretty hard to do since you only have spring rate and axle mass working for it. Usually those speeds are low enough that the shock can handle it without damage.
High velocity full compression is much easier to do since you have vehicle speed and mass working for it. Rarely are those speeds slow enough that the shock can handle it without damage.
So setting up the mounts to keep the shock from full compression when the suspension is fully compressed is my first priority. This would be easy if the bump-stops were part of the shock and I didn't need to worry about articulation. The further away that the bumps are from the shock, the more that articulation affects where the upper mount needs to be to keep the shock from becoming the new 'bump-stop'.
I don't really cycle the suspension for the lower mount. I do take the cycling into account when deciding where to put the lower mount since that drives where the upper will likely be. I find it simpler to fix the lower in place and then go to fully articulated compression to find the upper location, rather than trying to worry about where things will also be at full extension. If the length of the shock is right then full extension is not important.
If this were some sort of off road racer I would first remove the bump-stops and then set up the upper mount based on metal to metal contact. The reason is that off road racing is hard on bump-stops and you can not count on them always being there. Once they're blasted off the vehicle I still want the shock to come home in one piece.
High velocity full extension is pretty hard to do since you only have spring rate and axle mass working for it. Usually those speeds are low enough that the shock can handle it without damage.
High velocity full compression is much easier to do since you have vehicle speed and mass working for it. Rarely are those speeds slow enough that the shock can handle it without damage.
So setting up the mounts to keep the shock from full compression when the suspension is fully compressed is my first priority. This would be easy if the bump-stops were part of the shock and I didn't need to worry about articulation. The further away that the bumps are from the shock, the more that articulation affects where the upper mount needs to be to keep the shock from becoming the new 'bump-stop'.
I don't really cycle the suspension for the lower mount. I do take the cycling into account when deciding where to put the lower mount since that drives where the upper will likely be. I find it simpler to fix the lower in place and then go to fully articulated compression to find the upper location, rather than trying to worry about where things will also be at full extension. If the length of the shock is right then full extension is not important.
If this were some sort of off road racer I would first remove the bump-stops and then set up the upper mount based on metal to metal contact. The reason is that off road racing is hard on bump-stops and you can not count on them always being there. Once they're blasted off the vehicle I still want the shock to come home in one piece.
- Thread starter
- #160
I have not chosen shocks yet as I was going to first see how much compression the suspension could get. My bottom front shock mount will already be in place due to using marlin crawler's knuckle gusset shock mounts.
I guess my real question is what angles work best for shocks? I have never done this or seen it explained. Should the shocks be vertical or have certain angles?
I guess my real question is what angles work best for shocks? I have never done this or seen it explained. Should the shocks be vertical or have certain angles?
