Modifying Spartan Locker (1 Viewer)

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Sep 17, 2017
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Who here thinks it would be a bad idea to slightly trim the springs that expand the ratcheting pucks in my spartan locker? I measured my locker when I put it in and it was within spec but on the tight side. Even when I coast into turns its a 50/50 if its gonna unlock. I was thinking if it had just a little bit lest spring tension on the ratchets it would unlock more reliably. I was thinking of trimming a coil or two on each of the small springs and seeing what happens. I have about 1500 city miles on it and it hasn't really loosened up.

If you think its a bad idea please say why. I don't it would hurt its ability to lock because that is the job of the cross pin.

Thanks,

Skip
 
In the many years I drove an auto locker in a Land Cruiser wagon, I learned that the smoothest way to maneuver turns in town was with no load on the driveline. It does take some practice to hit, and maintain the neutral load condition, half way between accelerate and deccelerate.
 
In the many years I drove an auto locker in a Land Cruiser wagon, I learned that the smoothest way to maneuver turns in town was with no load on the driveline. It does take some practice to hit, and maintain the neutral load condition, half way between accelerate and deccelerate.

Understood but to test myself I have even popped it into neutral and is still locks. Also I am aware it could be my VC binding up causing an unequal load from front to back but I have taken the driveshaft off and tested the VC and it is functioning as intended.
 
My recommendation is to pull it out and sell it, and install a real selectable locker. Harrop would get my vote.
 
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It never “locks” in the sense that selectable lockers do, so it can’t have a problem with “unlocking”.

Each side is either driving or ratcheting independently, which is determined by the wheel speed and whether you are decelerating or accelerating.

Why do you think it has a problem? They normally pop and bang if you go from coast to accelerate around a turn.
 
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It has to do with the accel / decel BEFORE you enter the turn and "unload" the drive train. We have a Detroit Locker in a 70 GMC and it is also very tight. You have to feather the throttle BEFORE you hit the corner in order to have it stay released. As soon as even a little throttle is applied, it locks. On a 4WD truck (with lockout hubs on front) it can get squirrely on a corner in the rain if you're not ready for it. Even if you back out of the throttle, it will lock. This is a manual trans truck. It would be harder to do on a truck with an automatic trans, since the trans is ALWAYS applying torque, even when off the throttle.

I think it was @Pin_Head that explained it to me a long time ago that a locker allows one wheel to OVERRUN the other, but never one to slow down.....It took me a bit to understand what that meant, but it makes sense. SO, the corner you take is based on the INSIDE wheel speed and the outside overruns the inside. If you are on a tight corner, the difference in wheel speed is greater and it will be more likely to lock.
 
The problem is that it automatically switches the ratcheting side when you go from decelerate to accelerate in a turn. As you decelerate in a turn, the inside wheel is ratcheting and when you start to accelerate it switches to the outside wheel ratcheting. If the teeth aren’t exactly aligned when it switches, it will pop and band and chirp the inside tire. If they happen to line up, then no noise.

If you want to avoid problems entirely, decelerate BEFORE you enter the turn and then accelerate gently around the entire turn.
 
If you want to avoid problems entirely, decelerate BEFORE you enter the turn and then accelerate gently around the entire turn.

This can be said for any type of driving, especially in inclement weather. It always surprises me how many folks apply the brakes mid corner, in the wet.
 
Never experienced any of this with my truck. I have even tried goosing it in the corner. If I coast it rachets, if not it is silent.

The problem is that it automatically switches the ratcheting side when you go from decelerate to accelerate in a turn. As you decelerate in a turn, the inside wheel is ratcheting and when you start to accelerate it switches to the outside wheel ratcheting. If the teeth aren’t exactly aligned when it switches, it will pop and band and chirp the inside tire. If they happen to line up, then no noise.

If you want to avoid problems entirely, decelerate BEFORE you enter the turn and then accelerate gently around the entire turn.
 
Never experienced any of this with my truck. I have even tried goosing it in the corner. If I coast it rachets, if not it is silent.

You are right. "Goosing" it or coasting it will ratchet quietly.

What it doesn't like is going back and forth between accelerate and decelerate in turns. Try getting on and off the throttle while doing donuts in the parking lot and you will see how it works.
 
Oh donuts in an awd truck never really work. I will try in a corner and report back.

You are right. "Goosing" it or coasting it will ratchet quietly.

What it doesn't like is going back and forth between accelerate and decelerate in turns. Try getting on and off the throttle while doing donuts in the parking lot and you will see how it works.
 
If you think its a bad idea please say why. I don't it would hurt its ability to lock because that is the job of the cross pin.

bad idea because its not the springs that are keeping it from unlocking. when you have tight clearances on the cross shaft it will engage easier and if your clearances are on the loose side it will disengage easier. if you want it easier to unlock you will need to disassemble and change your side gear thrust washers.

how long has the locker been in the truck? when I installed my lokka (similar design to the grizzly) i used a lot of grease to hold the cams and side gears together and it took a little while for the grease to wash out and become easier to unlock
 

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