Mitsubishi 4D34-2AT3B diesel swap into 96 FZJ80

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Well, lots more progress this weekend. Went to the local pick-n-pull and got myself a windshield washer reservoir from a 91 FJ80.

Also drilled and tapped the manifold for 1/8" NPT. This is what the EGT gauge I want needs, but I don't have the funds right now for it, so I just bought a bung and installed. At least this way when I do get it, it's a easy install. (As long as the plug comes out that is!! :p) Installed the manifold with new OEM gaskets and hardware from my local Fuso dealer...
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Drilled and tapped new holes in the compressor cover to suit the wastegate actuator once the cover is clocked down. Also put some bolts in the old holes with red loctite, then cut the heads off flush. These holes actually go through to the inside of the housing, so they would be rather large boost leaks if left open.

Also ported the exhaust housing. The way the stock exhaust elbow is set up is a slip fit into the end of the housing, this leaves a large lip inside the housing which would cause turbulence with the 2.5" SCH-40 elbow welded to the houside of the housing. I basically ground off this lip for a smoother transition. Might be woth 1-2HP, haha!
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A couple more pictures of the port job...

Speaking of that SCH-40 elbow... it doesn't fit. I'm not sure what the differences are between my setup and Fromage's, besides AC, but this is way too close for comfort. Luckilly I can get a tight radius elbow, 3 times the cost of course, but it will give me an additional 1.25" clearance at the firewall, which should work out nicely. ;)
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Also installed a vacuum canister from the Fuso. I intent to keep the exhaust brake, and combined with the booster there will be some vacuum demand. I installed it where the factor Cruise modulator is. Actually fit quite well. I was also able to use a hard line from the Fuso to get around where the exhaust will route so that I won't have a rubber line right next to that heat.
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Here is a shot of the compressor outlet peaking out behind the wastegate actuator. You can also see that vacuum line in the background, dead center of the picture.

In the second picture you can see the clearance between the side of the motor and the side of the engine bay. You can see the power steering return line along the framerail, and the PS 5/8" feed line heading behind the alternator to the pump. I plan on routing the IC pipe straight down from the compressor housing below and to the side of the alternator, and to com straight forward next to it.

In the last pic is the small PS cooler I bought, since my factory one was in pretty sad shape. It fits well here, not sure how it will work with aftermarket bumpers, but we're not there yet.


That's it for today... the IC stuff will be delivered on Monday according to Fedex, then next weekend I can get that going, and hopefully done to be honest with you. I also cut and marked my AC lines where they need to be welded to work. I'll drop them off at a more competent welder than I on Monday.

All that's left after this is the exhaust, turbo feed/return, PS pressure line, fuel stuff, and a lot of wiring. I now feel like there is less ahead than behind, which is nice.
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Muleysam said:
Just wondering what water to air setup you will be going with?

Awesome work. This inspires me to dream even bigger. It seems that this is a project that I could do myself, even if I had to have the tranny put together for me.

This make the FZJ80 even better because the biggest downfall (for me) of these trucks is the fuel mileage.

Thank You
Click to expand...

I purchased my water/air setup from www.frozenboost.com. It is one of the smallest cores they sell... rated for 350HP and 450CFM. I figured a 3.9L engine flows 413CFM at 3000RPM at 100%VE and 1BAR boost. Since this engine is surely not 100% VE at 3000RPM, I should be fine.

I am also using a moderately sized heat exchanger, it is roughly the same size as the factory trans cooler. I will mount it on the other side up front next to the trans cooler, in front of the AC condensor.

I bought the Bosch pump, it's the same one that was in my SC'd 5.7L Tundra I had a couple years back. If it was good enough for TRD, it's good enough for me. I got a small 1.5qt Canton reservoir, and I plan on plumbing it all with 3/4" heater hose.

Pretty simple setup... total cost was under $600 including all fittings, hose, couplers, pipe, etc.

Thank you for the compliments by the way... it is nice to know someone appreciates the work. You should really keep this swap on the "to be considered" list. Besides the tranny work, it is very straightforward. Two motor mounts and the rest is plumbing and wiring. My kind of swap to be honest with you. :)
 
This is a great build and I have been following it for sometime now. I too would one day like to have a Diesel 80 series with a Diesel toyota motor in it. Accept for the scarceness of them and cost. Makes a clean and cheap 80 series gasser fit for a toyota or non toyota Diesel motor swap that much more attractive.

Anyways, I am currently putting a Turbo setup in my HJ60 and being up in canada. Stuff like silicone couplers, mandrel Alum and 304 stainless piping and alum assorted fittings is REALLY expensive up here.

I have been ordering goodies from RacePartSolutions.com Boca Raton FL. and even Votionspeed.com Colorado Springs CO. Shipping is very cheap and you already being states side it will even be more reasonable as the lack of customs charges are non existent. Their prices blow jegs and summit out of the water.

Cant wait to see the results when this thing is done.

Phil
 
Fromage said:
Looks like you are really making good progress. While you have the turbo out you may want to look at welding an elbow to the exhaust exit. You will see that there aren't too many options as the cast elbow just drops out. I welded a 2.5" stainless (316) tight radius weld elbow to the housing with 309 stainless filler (TIG) and it worked out slick. Then I used V bands from there on down, with 3 inch stainless. I highly recommend this way of doing it. The turbo housing is cast steel so it welds easy, and the stainless makes it look cool.
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I guess I need to read better...
 
LOL, my first thought was "crap, I led him astray once again!". I used a tight radius but in fact it was not that "tight", and I had to take a cut of the leading edge of the bend in order to make it fit closer to the turbo. I removed almost an inch. This caused the face where it is welded to the turbo to become slightly oval, not a big deal as there is lots of room for a weld. You may be able to make yours fit with some trimming. Here is a pic of mine:

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If you need more photos let me know.

After nearly 3000 miles the weld has held perfectly and the entire exhaust has been trouble free. I had to retighten the V bands once. Looks like it is really coming along, mine has been working great. I finally got a wastegate actuator, I should have it installed tonight, I am sure it will really help with the top end but around town it's pretty easy to keep the boost under 10PSI by driving like an old man.
 
Fromage said:
LOL, my first thought was "****, I led him astray once again!". I used a tight radius but in fact it was not that "tight", and I had to take a cut of the leading edge of the bend in order to make it fit closer to the turbo. I removed almost an inch. This caused the face where it is welded to the turbo to become slightly oval, not a big deal as there is lots of room for a weld. You may be able to make yours fit with some trimming. Here is a pic of mine:

If you need more photos let me know.

After nearly 3000 miles the weld has held perfectly and the entire exhaust has been trouble free. I had to retighten the V bands once. Looks like it is really coming along, mine has been working great. I finally got a wastegate actuator, I should have it installed tonight, I am sure it will really help with the top end but around town it's pretty easy to keep the boost under 10PSI by driving like an old man.
Click to expand...

It's great to know your swap has been so trouble free... I'm excited to get mine squared away, getting realy tired of driving my father's Nissan D21... haha! And for the record I don't think you've led me astray at all... this is only the second LC I know if getting this transplant, there will always be new things to learn!

I dropped off the AC lines at a local welder today, they specialize in AL welding (mostly marine stuff) but they've done odd stuff for me here at there. I was able to cut both the stock LC lines and the Fuso lines and make something that will work. That vbeing said, as long as the Fuso compressor can keep up with the demands of the system, I should be in good shape.

I also got my PS line made up today, took three different hydraulic shops though, since Metric stuff is "taboo" in the states it seems.
 
New Fiscal Update...

1999 Fuso Donor - $1800
Towing charge - $425
Pair of Diehard Platinums - $365
Cab Recycling - $122
Chassis Recycling - $310
1st Batch of Misc AL Recycling - $307
Threaded rod, nuts, drill rod from McMaster - $38
Last batch of AL Recycling - $504
Junkyard A442F w/ Shifter and TC - $400 shipped
Shifter Parts from Mr. T - $205
AW450-43LE Overhaul Kit - $255
Frozenboost IC Setup - $569
(I/C, Heat Exhanger, Pipe, Couplers, Fittings, Pump)
Summitracing - $311
(I/C Reservoir, Muffler, Thermal Switch, Hose)
Advance Auto - $50
(Rad Hoses, PS Hose, Misc Stuff)
PS Hose - $42
Gaskets from Fuso - $70
AC Lines - $90
Sell Exhaust - $450
Junkyard Washer Reservoir - $25

Running Total - $2952

I need to make another order from Frozenboost for some couplers for the intake, I need to order a bunch of bends and v-bands from mandrelbendingsolutions.com, and I need to order another tight radius weld-el. The total for all that stuff is just under $500. If I have another $1000 to spend I'd be surprised.

At today's fuel prices, $4000 is just over one year to pay back at 25k miles a year, which is about what I do. I was trying to keep it to a 1 year or less payback, but it is what it is. I still have the stock engine and trans for sale, so that'll help when they go.
 
Picked the AC lines up on my way home yesterday... everything fits as planned except for the high-side line has interference issues with the airbox. I'm debating whether I'm going to mod the box for clearance (ghetto, but free), or just take the line back to the shop and have an inch taken out of it... (proper, but $$$).

Also got all of the IC stuff yesterday from Fedex. Everything looks like it will fit as I envisioned it, who woulda thought? haha

My plan for this coming weekend is to wrap up all the plumbing except for the exhaust and intake. If I can swing that I'll be a very happy camper. Then the following weekend is exhaust and wiring!!!
 
Got the PS line installed... for the Cruiser end of the hose the hydraulics shop was able to use a 10mm compression fitting after just cutting the end off the hose.

One the Mitsu end, had to get a little more fancy. Welded the hose end to a AN/NPT adaptor that could be threaded onto the end of the hose.
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