Mitsubishi 4D34-2AT3B diesel swap into 96 FZJ80 (1 Viewer)

[SuperHatch]

Yes, I know the thread title looks an awesful lot like Fromage's conversion...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tec...shi-4d34-3at3b-diesel-swap-into-94-fzj80.html

His conversion along with Astr's Isuzu conversion....

https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/268941-isuzu-4he1tc-into-fj62.html

Have inspired me to take on this conversion for myself. After keeping an eye on Craigslist for a 1999-2004 Fuso FE, a 2005+ Hino 145, or a 1999+ UD box truck, I came across this 1999 Fuso FE-SP truck that was in a front end collision. The ad said "make offer", and I was able to snag the truck for $1800. Interestingle the 99 FE has a 4D34-2AT3B, not the 4D34-3AT3B that is in Fromage's swap. The engine looks identical to me and puts out the same power, not sure what the difference is, but in 2000 they went to the 3AT3B. This truck still has an Aisin AW450-43LE, so all is good there.

The truck has 143k miles on it, and I got it off of the original owner. He swears by 3k mile oil changes, although I have no way to confirm. I also haven't gotten the truck started yet as the batteries are dead and my cruiser doesn't quite have the guts to jump it. It will crank slowly, but there just isn't enough juice for the starter speed required to start. I'll buy a pair of batteries soon to verify that it will run, and just transfer them to the cruiser as I finish the swap.

I want to remove the box and cut it up for scrap, as there is a complex rack system inside made entirely of 1/4" plate aluminum. Should get a good bit of my purchase cost back out of that. Also, due to the front end damage I can't tilt the cab forwards... I need to pull the requisite electronics from it and then cut it from the frame. The damage didn't get into the radiator or Intercooler at least, it seems like a hard offset impact.

This isn't my first rodeo so to speak, I have done a number of odd engine conversions, inclusing Nissan V8 swaps into 300ZX's, 240SX's, among others. I've got a good deal of automotive experience, and I'm a Mechanical Engineer, but I'll be the first to admit this is my first Diesel experience and I'm sure to have many questions.

Can't wait to get at it... I have some other projects to get done first, but I should be digging into this by the Fall. Stay Tuned!

 

[Michael Hanson]

At 65 cents a pound for aluminum you did well. MIke

 

[SuperHatch]

My first question...

The Fuso has dual batteries in Parallel. Is there a need and/or benefit to retain this setup in the 80? I already have a second factory battery tray for the passenger side, so other than the added cost of the second battery and the required wiring, should I go this route?

It appears that the two batteries in the Fuso are always connected without any "smart" electronics, unlike many folks here that upgrade to dual batteries and add controllers. Can I just run two batteries in tandem all the time?

 

[astr]

My first question...

The Fuso has dual batteries in Parallel. Is there a need and/or benefit to retain this setup in the 80? I already have a second factory battery tray for the passenger side, so other than the added cost of the second battery and the required wiring, should I go this route?

It appears that the two batteries in the Fuso are always connected without any "smart" electronics, unlike many folks here that upgrade to dual batteries and add controllers. Can I just run two batteries in tandem all the time?

Congratulations on pulling the trigger! It's great to see another swap starting using the AW450 transmission.

As far as the batteries are concerned, you could get by with a single high capacity battery or run two connected in tandem for more cranking power. No special electronics required - just more space and $$$$.

You might also consider selling the box as a complete unit as the racks can be quite expensive so the box could bring a premium with the racks installed.

 

[SuperHatch]

Congratulations on pulling the trigger! It's great to see another swap starting using the AW450 transmission.

As far as the batteries are concerned, you could get by with a single high capacity battery or run two connected in tandem for more cranking power. No special electronics required - just more space and $$$$.

You might also consider selling the box as a complete unit as the racks can be quite expensive so the box could bring a premium with the racks installed.

Thank you! I am very excited to get started... Fromage has already agreed to get me what info he has on wiring. I have the FZJ80 FSM, just need the Fuso info and a good AW450 manual.

I will probably run the dual batteries, since I have a lot of the required parts with the exception of the battery itself.

I have considered selling the box complete, I just don't know where to even post such a thing for sale. It is also a rather large item to just keep in storage awaiting a buyer. We'll see once the time comes...

 

[astr]

Thank you! I am very excited to get started... Fromage has already agreed to get me what info he has on wiring. I have the FZJ80 FSM, just need the Fuso info and a good AW450 manual.

The AW450 manual is included in the Isuzu FSM that you can download from here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/184462-online-manuals.html. There may be some minor differences from the Fuso version.

I have considered selling the box complete, I just don't know where to even post such a thing for sale. It is also a rather large item to just keep in storage awaiting a buyer. We'll see once the time comes...

The box makes a great temporary storage place for car parts!

 

[SuperHatch]

The AW450 manual is included in the Isuzu FSM that you can download from here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/184462-online-manuals.html. There may be some minor differences from the Fuso version.

Perfect! Downloading it now

The box makes a great temporary storage place for car parts!

This is definitely an option! I can get a lot in scrap out of the rack system inside and then use the shell for storage...

 

[SuperHatch]

Second Question...

What do I need to do to my fuel system to make it Diesel ready? Besides drain the tank completely and modify the filler neck for the larger Diesel nozzel... Do I need ot change lines? Pump? Fuel Level Sender/Float?

 

[astr]

Second Question...

What do I need to do to my fuel system to make it Diesel ready? Besides drain the tank completely and modify the filler neck for the larger Diesel nozzel... Do I need ot change lines? Pump? Fuel Level Sender/Float?

You will have to eliminate the in-tank high pressure fuel pump. On the Fuso, you probably have some frame-mounted fuel filters/water separators. You may want to transfer them the FJZ80. You will also want to modify the tank filler to accept a larger nozzle.

 

[SuperHatch]

You will have to eliminate the in-tank high pressure fuel pump. On the Fuso, you probably have some frame-mounted fuel filters/water separators. You may want to transfer them the FJZ80. You will also want to modify the tank filler to accept a larger nozzle.

So there is no fuel pump at all? The injection pump draws the fuel out of the tank? That certainly keeps things simple.

The Fuso has a nearly full tank of fuel right now, and it has been sitting for 8 months. Any reason I shouldn't start it with the fuel in the tank?

 

[astr]

So there is no fuel pump at all? The injection pump draws the fuel out of the tank? That certainly keeps things simple.

The Fuso has a nearly full tank of fuel right now, and it has been sitting for 8 months. Any reason I shouldn't start it with the fuel in the tank?

As long as there is no water in the tank, I'd go for it. I'd only worry about it if the fuel cap was missing and water could have gotten into the tank. Check/drain your water separator as a precaution.

 

[SuperHatch]

As long as there is no water in the tank, I'd go for it. I'd only worry about it if the fuel cap was missing and water could have gotten into the tank. Check/drain your water separator as a precaution.

Great advice, will do. Hopefully all goes well!

 

[Fromage]

The water separator will fit beside the booster on the driver's side, I made a bracket for it with some aluminum angle. That way the stock pressure line can be cut and reaches the separator, and you can send a rubber hose over to the lift pump on the injection pump. Modifying the sender in the tank is easy, remove fuel pump, drill out rivets for wiring, attach piece of rubber line to pressure previously attached to fuel pump, then zip tie to fuel pump support and reinstall. The fuel gauge still works as intended, low fuel light, etc. The rubber gasket on the tank looks to be reusable. All in all it took 10 minutes to do this. It's more trouble getting to the bloody thing because you have to pull the seats than to actually modify it....

The filler neck is a PITA as you can't remove it from the truck without raising the body. I just did it in situ, removed it from the tank, slid it back, used a hole saw to enlarge the filler hole. That was a solid hour of greasy mess (my truck is undercoated and rustproofed)...

Good luck!

 

[SuperHatch]

The water separator will fit beside the booster on the driver's side, I made a bracket for it with some aluminum angle. That way the stock pressure line can be cut and reaches the separator, and you can send a rubber hose over to the lift pump on the injection pump. Modifying the sender in the tank is easy, remove fuel pump, drill out rivets for wiring, attach piece of rubber line to pressure previously attached to fuel pump, then zip tie to fuel pump support and reinstall. The fuel gauge still works as intended, low fuel light, etc. The rubber gasket on the tank looks to be reusable. All in all it took 10 minutes to do this. It's more trouble getting to the bloody thing because you have to pull the seats than to actually modify it....

The filler neck is a PITA as you can't remove it from the truck without raising the body. I just did it in situ, removed it from the tank, slid it back, used a hole saw to enlarge the filler hole. That was a solid hour of greasy mess (my truck is undercoated and rustproofed)...

Good luck!

Great info... thanks a bunch! I actually just discovered that my filler neck is now leaking as I was filling up with fuel, so I guess I'll be lifting the body to pull it out anyway for repairs. I'll modify it then...

Last question for a little while, and I think Astr can answer it best.

In reference to your Tachometer Thread, do you believe the 3 pulses/rev will also work to trigger the 80 series tach? I'm unsure of the differences electronically between the 60 series tach and the 80 series tach.

EDIT: Best I can tell form the 80 series wiring diagram is that the tachometer recieves its signal directly from the ECM. I have to imagin it is a pulsed signal, I am just curious if it is 3 pulses/rev or 6.

 

[astr]

...In reference to your Tachometer Thread, do you believe the 3 pulses/rev will also work to trigger the 80 series tach? I'm unsure of the differences electronically between the 60 series tach and the 80 series tach.

I don't know for sure as I'm not familiar with the 80 series. I would expect so but why don't you try it and let us know.

You can simulate the setup by spinning a steel disk with notches cut into it with a drill. Wire up the ABS sensor to your tach and see if you get a reading. If you want to send me a wiring diagram for your FJZ80 engine and tach, I'll take a further look if you like.

 

[SuperHatch]

I don't know for sure as I'm not familiar with the 80 series. I would expect so but why don't you try it and let us know.

You can simulate the setup by spinning a steel disk with notches cut into it with a drill. Wire up the ABS sensor to your tach and see if you get a reading. If you want to send me a wiring diagram for your FJZ80 engine and tach, I'll take a further look if you like.

I'll give it a shot and see what happens... don't want to burden you with it, you've got enough going on with your project. Just thought you might know off the top of your head.

 

[SuperHatch]

A buddy at work just dropped off my spacer... had it water-jetted out of 0.625 6061-T6 Aluminum. Once I get the trans together I'll measure the thickness and have it milled down. Should be 0.535" like Fromage's, but I'll wait to be sure.

 

[astr]

A buddy at work just dropped off my spacer... had it water-jetted out of 0.625 6061-T6 Aluminum. Once I get the trans together I'll measure the thickness and have it milled down. Should be 0.535" like Fromage's, but I'll wait to be sure.

That sure turned out purdy!!

 

[SuperHatch]

Why thank you!

 

[astr]

...EDIT: Best I can tell form the 80 series wiring diagram is that the tachometer recieves its signal directly from the ECM. I have to imagin it is a pulsed signal, I am just curious if it is 3 pulses/rev or 6.

If the stock tach is driven by the ECM, then it probably won't work with an ABS sensor. The signal generated by the ECM is well define both in voltage and pulse width if it is even a pulse. The voltage from the abs sensor can be quite high and the pulse somewhat ill defined all dependent on a lot of different variables. In and FJ62, the tach signal is primarily generated by the ignition coil and has all kinds of voltage spikes and other artifacts so the tach itself must have a robust signal conditioning circuit which allowed me to drive it with the abs sensor. If the FJZ80 tach is driven by the clean, well defined signal from the ECM, then there would be no need for the signal conditioning circuit that exist in the FJ62 tach. In fact, you may end up blowing out your tach if you try to drive it with an abs sensor.

I would recommend a close look at the FJZ80 tach circuitry before trying the abs sensor approach.