Mitsubishi 4D34-2AT3B diesel swap into 96 FZJ80

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My least favorite part... I couldn't find a 1.75" to 2" 45* reducer for the life of me, so I double clamped a 2" coupler onto the turbo outlet. It will work, just not pretty.

Second pic shows how the pipe runs under the alternator.

Third pic is a top down view of the whole setup.
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Finished the braket, some pics of it finished and unpainted, then a painted and installed pic. I used two threaded bolt holes up top that weren't used for anything, and picked up the bottom on one of the water pump bolts. This thing is solid.

One of the benefits of the IC being mounted to the engine, is that engine movement will put no stress on the couplers, since everything will move together...
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Got some clamps on the upper couplers. Got all of the water system done as well. You can see the reservois laying in the top right of the first pic. The only thing I have left to do is to make a mounting bracket for it.

The second pic is the reservoir where it will be once I mount it. You can see the hose coming out of the bottom.

In the third pic you can see the "T" on the side of the IC, the hose coming from the right is the reservoir hose. The hose leaving the pump goes to the heat exhanger.
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Last pics for the night.

Here are the hoses, one from the pump, the other is the return to the IC.

In the second pic you can see how I routed the hoses through the rad support. I know, pipe fittings seem a bit ghetto, but they won't leak and it was cheap

The last pic is the heat exchanger mounted up. I need to remove it to paint the brackets I made, but besides that and the reservoir brackets, the IC setup is done!
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How much did you consider an air-air intercooler? It seems your air pipes are running within a foot of where they would need to go anyway.
 
How much did you consider an air-air intercooler? It seems your air pipes are running within a foot of where they would need to go anyway.

Air-air was my first choice. I tried to make the Fuso IC work, and I also tried to make an R33 GTR IC I had lying around work, both required significant cutting of the rad support and relocating the trans cooler at the very least. I could have done what Fromage did, and gotten a custom radiator and off the shelf IC, but the cost of that was within a couple hundred dollars of the water-air setup.

There are certainly +/- to each, I made what I thought was the best decision at the time and it has worked out exactly as I had hoped... ***shrug***
 
Your install looks good and I'm interested in seeing the end result.

For others who are doing a swap with a air to air inter cooler, take a look on how I mounted mine in my 60 with an Isuzu 4BD2tc engine.

Since the 4 cylinder is shorter than the 6, I moved the radiator back and mounted the stock Isuzu IC between the radiator and the AC condenser. I worked well. I had some steel bent up and everything mounts just like stock.

Just and idea for others doing a swap.

Looks great. End of hijack...

Doug
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Your install looks good and I'm interested in seeing the end result.

For others who are doing a swap with a air to air inter cooler, take a look on how I mounted mine in my 60 with an Isuzu 4BD2tc engine.

Since the 4 cylinder is shorter than the 6, I moved the radiator back and mounted the stock Isuzu IC between the radiator and the AC condenser. I worked well. I had some steel bent up and everything mounts just like stock.

Just and idea for others doing a swap.

Looks great. End of hijack...

Doug

Thanks for the pictures... I guess I probably could have made that type of setup work. I had actually thought about that, but there were two things that turned me off about it.
1- The air had to pass through the trans cooler and condenser before making to the IC, getting heated up a bit in the process. Minor in the grand scheme of things... I know
2- I had recently purchased a brand new radiator, and didn't really want to eat that like I am with so many of the other maintenance parts I purchased.

Either way, I don't think there are any real downsides of the w/a setup, besides the added complexity.




Back on topic :)

Did a boost leak test, zero leaks which is nice. Also built that bracket for the I/C water reservoir.
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Your are getting close, how soon to the first start!

Just to be clear, on my set up, I used the stock Toyota 60 radiator and mounts, with the stock condenser in it's original mounts.

Get back to work!

Doug
 
Your are getting close, how soon to the first start!

Hoping two weeks at the absolute most. I will fab the exhaust and intake and plumb the fuel next weekend. Time permitting I'll start looking at the wiring too. Hopefully finish the wiring the following weekend and get her started!

Just to be clear, on my set up, I used the stock Toyota 60 radiator and mounts, with the stock condenser in it's original mounts.

Understood... I couldn't use the stock Fuso IC with the stock 80 rad, there was not much clearance to get the pipes around it cleanly. Spending money to mod the IC (or buy a new IC) and get a new rad would have cost the same as the water/air setup I did.

Another thing I like about the W/A setup is the active cooling while stopped and a slow speeds... at least until the system becomes heat soaked.

Get back to work!

Doug

I'll get back to work next weekend... Suinday is family day! We're on our way to a BBQ competition to visit friends and eat some great food :)
 
Awesome work! I'm thinking about going with a 4M40 or 4D34 in my Montero, your thread has been very helpfull. Our transfer case bolt patterns are very similar in shape but the Montero 12 bolts and 2 dowels, It really got me thinking about a possible interchange between some of the tailshaft housings on the Fuso.
Sorry for the hijack but thanks for documenting this swap in such detail.
 
Can you do me a favor and please check what pressure the wastegate opens? It will be from 7 PSI to 10PSI. Mine was leaking, I replaced it and I am trying to return everything to stock for testing purposes... I would greatly appreciate it !

Looking good. Are you good for wiring diags?
 
Awesome work! I'm thinking about going with a 4M40 or 4D34 in my Montero, your thread has been very helpfull. Our transfer case bolt patterns are very similar in shape but the Montero 12 bolts and 2 dowels, It really got me thinking about a possible interchange between some of the tailshaft housings on the Fuso.
Sorry for the hijack but thanks for documenting this swap in such detail.

Unfortunately I am totally unfamiliar with the montero... knowing what transmission came in the truck would greatly help in figuring out what may or may not work. In any event, thanks for the kind words!

Can you do me a favor and please check what pressure the wastegate opens? It will be from 7 PSI to 10PSI. Mine was leaking, I replaced it and I am trying to return everything to stock for testing purposes... I would greatly appreciate it !

Looking good. Are you good for wiring diags?

I will try to check the wastegate opening pressure next weekend. Shouldn't be a problem at all...

I'm good to go on wiring diagrams. I've looked over the FSM you provided a number of times now and it should have everything I need in there...

good job, very good

Thanks!
 
Well, if there is any confusion from the diagrams send me a note, I also have the factory wiring manual and I can look at it. From what I have seen the manual you have is almost identical.

It's cool to see how you are doing things slightly differently than I did, and I'm pretty sure that I would copy your mount setup if I had to do it again, the FZJ80 mounts a re just too stiff. I will try 13BT ones and if they don't work, I will then probably got for OEM Mitsubishi. It's only an issue at idle, on the road the truck is quite smooth.

Mine has been quite reliable but I can't really say much about the mileage or power as I am still messing with turbo control issues and a stock exhaust that is very restrictive. I hope to "finish" this up soon so I can get a feel for how it's supposed to run. I've put about 5000 miles on it, out of necessity, including towing 6000 lbs. I had to use 3rd a lot but could cruise on the flats at 60-65 mph in OD. I expect that it will get a lot better with the turbo uncorked.
 
Well, if there is any confusion from the diagrams send me a note, I also have the factory wiring manual and I can look at it. From what I have seen the manual you have is almost identical.

Good to know you're there to help, thanks!

It's cool to see how you are doing things slightly differently than I did, and I'm pretty sure that I would copy your mount setup if I had to do it again, the FZJ80 mounts a re just too stiff. I will try 13BT ones and if they don't work, I will then probably got for OEM Mitsubishi. It's only an issue at idle, on the road the truck is quite smooth.

I used the FZJ80 mounts as well, exactly as you did. Driver's side unmodified, passenger side has part of the clamshell cut off for clearance.

I guess I'll find out how rough it is soon enough!

Mine has been quite reliable but I can't really say much about the mileage or power as I am still messing with turbo control issues and a stock exhaust that is very restrictive. I hope to "finish" this up soon so I can get a feel for how it's supposed to run. I've put about 5000 miles on it, out of necessity, including towing 6000 lbs. I had to use 3rd a lot but could cruise on the flats at 60-65 mph in OD. I expect that it will get a lot better with the turbo uncorked.

I am planning a full 3" exhaust right out of the gate, so I should avoid any restriction issues that you've encountered. I am also planning on keeping the exhaust 100% inside the frame rails, I hope that works out well.
 
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