Mitsubishi 4D34-2AT3B diesel swap into 96 FZJ80

[Fromage]

Looks like you are really making good progress. While you have the turbo out you may want to look at welding an elbow to the exhaust exit. You will see that there aren't too many options as the cast elbow just drops out. I welded a 2.5" stainless (316) tight radius weld elbow to the housing with 309 stainless filler (TIG) and it worked out slick. Then I used V bands from there on down, with 3 inch stainless. I highly recommend this way of doing it. The turbo housing is cast steel so it welds easy, and the stainless makes it look cool.

Also, if you get a 3 inch combo 45 / 180 bend (I order from mandrelbend.com) you will see that the 45 and then following 180 can be used almost as-is for the downpipe. It makes for a super stock nice looking downpipe. There are pics in my thread.

For the fuel filter I would just get a universal spin on head from Racor or some other supplier, you should be able to get something standard and cheap that is universal fit, then just mount it on the firewall and run some rubber lines.

I still don't have a wastegate for mine. Waiting for parts. It pulls better if I keep it under 10 psi, I think the engine de-fuels rather gradually to keep the boost in check. If I just floor it, it kinda falls flat on its face.

 

[SuperHatch]

Looks like you are really making good progress. While you have the turbo out you may want to look at welding an elbow to the exhaust exit. You will see that there aren't too many options as the cast elbow just drops out. I welded a 2.5" stainless (316) tight radius weld elbow to the housing with 309 stainless filler (TIG) and it worked out slick. Then I used V bands from there on down, with 3 inch stainless. I highly recommend this way of doing it. The turbo housing is cast steel so it welds easy, and the stainless makes it look cool.

I actually already ordered a 2.5" SCH10 90* Elbow, but I bought 304, not 316, it's what McMaster had in stock. I also called my local Fuso dealer to get all the exhaust gaskets, but to be honest the parts guy seems to not care all that much. Wish I had a guy like you describe at your local dealer.

I have a TIG, but I'm honestly not all the proficient. I've got some skills with the MIG, so I'll either buy some stainless MIG wire, or just bring the exhaust housing to a local welder. I'd prefer to do it myself, but I'm not sure I can get enough heat into it with the MIG.

Also, if you get a 3 inch combo 45 / 180 bend (I order from mandrelbend.com) you will see that the 45 and then following 180 can be used almost as-is for the downpipe. It makes for a super stock nice looking downpipe. There are pics in my thread.

I was looking at mandrelbend.com, and I was also looking at mandrel-bends.com. The later has a DIY kit of 409SS in 14ga for a decent price, I just wish they sold the v-bands too so I could one-stop shop. I plan on doing the entire exhaust, just deciding on a muffler right now.

For the fuel filter I would just get a universal spin on head from Racor or some other supplier, you should be able to get something standard and cheap that is universal fit, then just mount it on the firewall and run some rubber lines.

Do you know of a good site to order from? I'm used to ordering stuff from summit-racing, but they're pretty limited on their diesel stuff.

I still don't have a wastegate for mine. Waiting for parts. It pulls better if I keep it under 10 psi, I think the engine de-fuels rather gradually to keep the boost in check. If I just floor it, it kinda falls flat on its face.

Speaking of fueling... I've been looking into that Fuel Injection Rate Resistor (see attached). I did some brief google searching and the old 6.5L GM diesel apparently has a similar resistor, and from what I've read a simple swapout can be worth some decent power gains. I know, I know, I don't even have it running yet and I'm looking at mods already.... but if I can gain 20-40HP from a simple resistor swap, I'm all for it.

 

[SuperHatch]

Well, found some sources for the Racor stuff... I guess the question now is do I need a 230R or a 245R? 30GPH flow versus 45GPH... logically the larger filter would lead to longer maintenance intervals. Thoughts?

 

[SuperHatch]

Got started this weekend. Got the old lump out...

 

[SuperHatch]

Swapped in a locked front axle I rebuilt while the motor was out. Rebuilt the birfs, wheel bearings, used all AMSoil grease. Also put in DBA rotors, 100 series pads, new OEM brake lines, and extended OEM brake lines. Someday I'll do a lift, but it's not on the short list right now even though this would have been the ideal time.

 

[SuperHatch]

Got the 4D34 in, the crossmember is bolted in place, but the engine is just sitting on a jack and a piece of wood. Positioning it to get the mounts made.

 

[SuperHatch]

Clearly I have my priorities straight. I through the pair of OEM battery boxes in and the AC compressor. With the turbo flipped, clearance between the wastegate diaphram and the compressor is tight, about 3/16", but it fits! Just need to make some custom lines to hook it all up.

 

[SuperHatch]

Got my passenger side mount done. I reused the stock mount flange and built my own mount off of it. No need to reinvent the wheel there... came out ok, it's all 1/4" plate mild steel thats MIG'd together. I'll get to the drivers side mount next weekend.... that's where I'm at now!

 

[Fromage]

You may have to lift it to get oil filter to axle clearance. Mine has a little dent in it from the front axle contacting it and I have OME heavys. It cleared at full bump but I guess I hit something pretty big and it contacted by deflecting the bump stops...

Looking good. The mounts are great but remember that the stock mounts "cage" the rubber mount to prevent fore aft movement, you might want to incorporate this into your mount design. Looks good nonetheless.

 

[epike7915]

excellent write up...SUBSCRIBED

 

[SuperHatch]

You may have to lift it to get oil filter to axle clearance. Mine has a little dent in it from the front axle contacting it and I have OME heavys. It cleared at full bump but I guess I hit something pretty big and it contacted by deflecting the bump stops...

Honestly I was looking at clearances everywhere and I was thinking the same thing. I have 30mm sping packers in it, but I don't think that will be enough for me to feel comfortable.

Looking good. The mounts are great but remember that the stock mounts "cage" the rubber mount to prevent fore aft movement, you might want to incorporate this into your mount design. Looks good nonetheless.

I don't really understand what you mean here. I didn't modify the factory mounts at all, I left the metal shell on the top intact. All I did was build a bracket between the mount and the block exactly as the factory did. The factory brackets (on the 1FZ) bolt to the metal shelled rubber mount exactly as mine do.

Maybe there is some confusion with that mount in the picture? That is just a random mount I had laying around the garage that I used to prop my piece up for the picture.

excellent write up...SUBSCRIBED

Thanks!



I've made a lot more progress, but I've been spending my time working and not taking pictures and posting. The motor is completely in (both mounts done), the driveshafts are back in, shift linkage is all together, heater hoses done (I used a 3/4" PEX Elbow to give me added clearance at the steering box, the radiator hoses are figured out, all is looking quite good. I plan on finising the cooling system this weekend, getting the vacuum canister in, among other odds and ends. All that will be left after this weekend are the intake, intercooler, exhaust, and wiring.

 

[SuperHatch]

Well, I got all the plumbing of the cooling system squared away this past week. Not much progress other than that since work has been very busy. I am planning on working on the truck all day today and most of the day tomorrow, so I should make some decent progress... unfortunately some parts I ordered on Monday won't be here until next Monday, sigh.

Here is how I routed my heater hoses. I reversed the flow through the heater core, but I did not reverse the flow through the control valve. I think this loos a lot cleaner than the mess of hoses the factory direction would have created. And for what it's worth, the heater core inlet and outlet are both on the top, so this won't cause issues with air pockets, etc.

 

[SuperHatch]

This is the upper hose with some arrows showing the direction of flow. This was all verified out of the FSM.

The upper radiator hose is a Dayco part with a 1.75" end at the motor and a 1.5" end at the radiator. The motor is 1.875 and the radiator is 1.625, but it stretched to fit with little to no effort.

The lower hose is two different Dayco parts, neither is cut. If anyone is interested I can get the part # of the formed hose on the right off of the reciept, the flex hose on the left is another Dayco part with the same size ends as the upper hose, just a shorter length. The two hoses are joined in the middle by a 1.75" ID to 1.75" OD exhaust coupling. I put a bead on each end to prevent it from popping apart. It should do the trick.

 

[SuperHatch]

Lastly, this is a thermal switch I installed to control the electric fan, which is not installed yet. The coolant will always flow, even when the thermostat is closed. So if the fan comes on but the radiator is cool, I'll know the thermostat is failing. The switch turns on at 180 and off at 170, the themostat opens at 180. I will need to put a relay in to handle the amperage for the fan I've chosen, this switch is only rated at 10 amps.

There is a "T" fitting in the upper heater core hose, it is a 3/4" PEX "T" with a 1/2" branch. PEX seems to be sized pretty small, and it was relatively easy to stretch the 3/8" hose over the 1/2" fitting.

 

[SuperHatch]

Here is the lower heater hose. You can see the 3/4" PEX elbow I used to make the required sharp bend to clear the steering box. I know that hose has some wear and rust on it from a clap that was in the Fuso. I plan on either shortening the hose or replacing it.

 

[astr]

Lastly, this is a thermal switch I installed to control the electric fan, which is not installed yet...

Have you decided which electric fan you will use? It looks like you could have used the original fan that came on 4D34-2AT3B. Why did you decide on an electric fan?

Looking really good

 

[SuperHatch]

I am using a Derale 14-SL17R9 electric fan. I could have used the 4D34 fan and fabricated my own shroud, but I had the fan lying around from another project that didn't need it, and it works quite well.

I am integrating the electric fan into the OEM mechanical fan shroud, so it saves me heaps of time trying to fabricate a shroud. This also leaves me with 5-5.5" of clearance between the fan and the frontmost part of the belt drive. I am going to mount a cross-flow water/air intercooler in this area. If Fedex was on it's game I'd have it to do this weekend, but it will have to wait until next weekend.

Here are some pictures of what I've gotten completed on the fan this morning, I just need to cut out some sheet AL on the plasma to fill in the voids and then cover with AL tape to seal the voids. It might not look the prettyist, but form follows function for me.

Thanks for the compliments astr!

 

[SuperHatch]

Some more pictures of the 1/8" tabs I made... nothing special here at all... KISS

 

[SuperHatch]

Here are a few pics installed... you can see the heaps of clearance between the front of the engine and the fan/shroud.

 

[Muleysam]

Just wondering what water to air setup you will be going with?

Awesome work. This inspires me to dream even bigger. It seems that this is a project that I could do myself, even if I had to have the tranny put together for me.

This make the FZJ80 even better because the biggest downfall (for me) of these trucks is the fuel mileage.

Thank You