Mitsubishi 4D34-2AT3B diesel swap into 96 FZJ80

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Update - The power button is +12V to the TCM to switch. Pin 11 of connector P, which is the medium sized connector on the TCM, is what's identified. Top row (where the locking tab is), middle left or middle right position. Green with a White tracer.... :D

From the 1999 Fuso manual.
 
Tachometer

Well, I got tired of trying to troubleshoot things today and decided to do something different. Getting the Tachometer to work...

Rather than try to use a signal converter, oscilliscope, etc. to make the Fuso tach signal work with the LC tach, I took a different approach.

First I disassebled the stock Fuco Tach. The needle slides right off the front. Then I removed the two screws holding the face onto the tach electronics. Basically separating the guts of the tach from the face. The tach only needs three things to operate. +12V power, +12V tach signal from ECU, and -GND from ECU.
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Another picture of the circuit board, and a rear shot of the Fuso cluster where the three holes pass through that hold the tach assebly into the cluster and transfer the signals from the curcuit paper on the back of the cluster in to the actual tach electronics. You can see that they're labeled. TA+, TA-, IG+
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I then attached the Fuso tach electronics to the LC face. The holes almost lined up perfectly. Used a small drill bit and ovalized the holes a hair, then screwed it together.

The bottom mounting point on the LC cluster is +12V, so I used a small lead of wire to connect it to the Fuso tach circuit board.
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I then took some measurements and drilled two holes striaght through the circuit paper and cluster plastic on the LC cluster. Fortunately one landed where there were no traces, and the other came through where the turbo diesel's timing belt light trace would be. I screwed straight through the cluster into the Fuso tach circuit board just like the OEM setup. The screws cary the signals straight through. I used some crimp eyes to attach wires where the screws went through.

These got hooked to the Fuso ECU's TA+ and TA- connections.

Finished product, works perfectly!!! Even the radial alignment of the RPM values are spaced nearly identical. So while it is not 100% accurate, it is pretty darn close. Doesn't get much easier than this, and it was free since I had all the parts from the donor truck.

Only thing left to get working is the cruise control, and then every OEM option will work!

UPDATE!!! (11/29/11) Needle Installation

You MUST install the cluster and put the key in the "ON" position BEFORE installing the needle. The tach will "zero" itself when power is applied, failure to do this will result in improper needle placement. In my case, I installed the needle at "0" and installed the cluster. When I powered on the truck, the needle shot to 1600RPM with the truck off. Obviously this wasn't right. So I removed the cluster cover, needle, and then put the key in the "ON" position before installing the needle in the "0" position.

I then ran into the following problem:

This is fairly important. The 0-1k RPM section of the LC tachometer uses smaller increments than the rest of the tach. The Fuso tachometer is even spacing for all increments. So installing the needle at "0" results in the tach reading 300RPM high everywhere above 1000RPM. This was verified by doing the math for appropriate RPM readings for indicated speeds while the converter is locked.

How did I fix this? I installed the needle at what looked like 300RPM BELOW the "0" (Yes, UNDER the stop pin). The needle has enough flex to allow it to be "convinced" over the stop pin to the zero position after installation. The result? The tach is almost 100% accurate above 1000RPM, and reads a little low at idle (shows 700RPM at idle, where the dealers MUT-II tool showed 750RPM). I still feel this was the best possible approach to solving the tach issue in the 80 with this conversion. It has been working flawlessly for 1000+ miles.
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Well done!
 
Excellent work. Just need to shift the redline now.
 
That is fantastic! I'm really looking forward to seeing you getting the cruise to work, that is one thing I would not like to give up.

Would the engine driven fan have worked or lined up if you had wished to use it?

I had a thought on the lock up of the TQ in 2nd and 3rd gears. I'm not sure what buttons there on the dash of the Fuso but if there was a tow or PWR button that could change the trans shift points and lock up times.

Also if there is a Jake brake button the trans would need to lock up the TQ for that to have any effect on breaking as far as I understand an auto. If it did not lock up then all the compression breaking would be lost in the TQ and result in a hot trans.

If I'm totally off on that sorry was just a idle thought this weekend wile doing something else.

What in the way of wiring was needed? As far as I can figure there would be about 8-10 wires needing connection to the 80 dash wiring and power? Was the transmission harness also part of the engine harness on the fuso or a separate one?

Really looking forward to some long term fuel economy numbers. Anything over 20MPG would make this a winner in my books.
 
I really like your approach to the tach problem. I wish I could have done something similar on my Isuzu 4HE1 but the NPR never came with a tach so your approach was not an option.
 
On mine, which is very similar, the mechanical fan works great. We are still trying to figure out the power/economy switch, it doesn't seem to do anything! On mine, no mods to the OEM wiring were necessary, I am not sure how SuperHatch has his set up. I will let him chime in.

That is fantastic! I'm really looking forward to seeing you getting the cruise to work, that is one thing I would not like to give up.

Would the engine driven fan have worked or lined up if you had wished to use it?

I had a thought on the lock up of the TQ in 2nd and 3rd gears. I'm not sure what buttons there on the dash of the Fuso but if there was a tow or PWR button that could change the trans shift points and lock up times.

Also if there is a Jake brake button the trans would need to lock up the TQ for that to have any effect on breaking as far as I understand an auto. If it did not lock up then all the compression breaking would be lost in the TQ and result in a hot trans.

If I'm totally off on that sorry was just a idle thought this weekend wile doing something else.

What in the way of wiring was needed? As far as I can figure there would be about 8-10 wires needing connection to the 80 dash wiring and power? Was the transmission harness also part of the engine harness on the fuso or a separate one?

Really looking forward to some long term fuel economy numbers. Anything over 20MPG would make this a winner in my books.
 
Excellent work. Just need to shift the redline now.

Always a critic, eh? j/k...

That is fantastic! I'm really looking forward to seeing you getting the cruise to work, that is one thing I would not like to give up.

I am nearly certain that my idea will work, just need to find time to get it set up.

Would the engine driven fan have worked or lined up if you had wished to use it?

Yes, it likely would have worked, it just would have required a custom shroud since it was not even close to lining up with the stock shroud.

I had the electric fan I used lying around and I have to say it has been working great. Cycles on and off like it should.

I always wanted to do a water/air IC setup, so this project was a good excuse to set one up.

I had a thought on the lock up of the TQ in 2nd and 3rd gears. I'm not sure what buttons there on the dash of the Fuso but if there was a tow or PWR button that could change the trans shift points and lock up times.

Yes, there was a PWR/ECO switch on the Fuso, but it is not functioning for me right now.

Also if there is a Jake brake button the trans would need to lock up the TQ for that to have any effect on breaking as far as I understand an auto. If it did not lock up then all the compression breaking would be lost in the TQ and result in a hot trans.

Yes, there was also an exhaust brake, but I did not install it or wire any of it up. I may be able to use the input as a converter lockup override, but not my #1 concern right this second.

If I'm totally off on that sorry was just a idle thought this weekend wile doing something else.

No need to appologize, I appreciate the input!

What in the way of wiring was needed? As far as I can figure there would be about 8-10 wires needing connection to the 80 dash wiring and power? Was the transmission harness also part of the engine harness on the fuso or a separate one?

The connections between the engine/trans and the Cruiser were the easy part to be honest with you. There were more than 8-10 wires, probably 20, but still not difficult at all.

The trick was separating all of the powertrain wiring from the Fuso chassis harness and then shortening and rerouting as needed without getting anything lost or confused. The Fuso chassis harness is fully integrated, so there are a LOT of unused wires when you're done. There is easily more in my leftovers box than got installed in the truck.

Also, the 95-97 cruisers are a bit different than the 93-94 trucks. My ECM is really a PCM, as it controls the engine and the trans. Fromage's truck is a lot like the Fuso in that it has a separate ECU/TCU. The 95-97 cruisers have 4 connectors at the PCM, three are part of the factory engine harness, the 4th is actually part of the dash harness. I had ignored that connector at first and only concentrated on IH1 and IH2, the two white connectors on the engine harness that plug directly into the dash harness. These give you a lot of what you need, but not everything.

Really looking forward to some long term fuel economy numbers. Anything over 20MPG would make this a winner in my books.

Well, my first two tanks were 16.5MPG and 15.5MPG, so in that department I'm really disappointed with this conversion. I have ot say that I really believe there is an underlying issue though, and once I figure out what it is, the numbers should improve.

I really like your approach to the tach problem. I wish I could have done something similar on my Isuzu 4HE1 but the NPR never came with a tach so your approach was not an option.

Thank you, I had no idea the NPRs didn't have a tach... I figured all of these trucks did... who knew? It really was the simplesy solution in my book. The only problem I have right now is that I installed the needle in the wrong postion, so it is reading 200RPM high pretty much everywhere. Simple enough fix, just a matter of finding the time to do it.

On mine, which is very similar, the mechanical fan works great. We are still trying to figure out the power/economy switch, it doesn't seem to do anything! On mine, no mods to the OEM wiring were necessary, I am not sure how SuperHatch has his set up. I will let him chime in.

On the 95-97 cruisers, the "PWR" butting supplies a ground trigger to the PCM. Fromage checked out his wiring diagram, and on the Fuso it supplies +12V. I need to install a relay that will sent power to the TCU, rather than GND. Again, easy fix but its a matter of finding the time.
 
Hey, as posted in my thread, how obvious is the lockup in the TC? I have been paying close attention to mine and I can't feel it locking up. Either is is super smooth or I have an issue.
 
Yikes, I get that kind of mileage from my 1fz with 315's. I really hope you get that sorted out, its a lot of work for nothing if not. There must be something off there is no way a 4cyl 3.9L turbo diesel should get that kind of mileage unless its pushing a 10k lb load.
 
Wheelingnoob said:
Yikes, I get that kind of mileage from my 1fz with 315's. I really hope you get that sorted out, its a lot of work for nothing if not. There must be something off there is no way a 4cyl 3.9L turbo diesel should get that kind of mileage unless its pushing a 10k lb load.

Thanks for that.
 
Thanks for that.

:p No problem

I have done a bunch of engine swaps before and there is always little things that need sorting out, I'm sure you are just going through that stage now. Once everything is sorted out it should return the same mileage that other similar sized Diesels get.

Keep at it.
 
:p No problem

I have done a bunch of engine swaps before and there is always little things that need sorting out, I'm sure you are just going through that stage now. Once everything is sorted out it should return the same mileage that other similar sized Diesels get.

Keep at it.

Well, if Fromage's conversion is getting 16-18MPG without the converter locking up, and I'm getting 15-17 with it locking up, there is definitely something off.

I'll figure it out eventually. Thanks for the vote of confidence :steer:
 

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