- Thread starter
- #241
Well... 18.3mpg on this tank, so the timing adjustment seems to have helped. Pulling the injectors this weekend to have them serviced.
Mitsubishi 4D34-2AT3B diesel swap into 96 FZJ80
- Thread starter SuperHatch
- Start date
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What type of driving is that? That's starting to get a bit better, did you pick up some more power with the timing adjustment?
Not sure if this will help you at all but it maybe worth it to have one to play with. it really sounds like this engine is going to need some chip tuning to get more fuel and economy.
ECM for 2002 Mits Fuso FE
ECM for 2002 Mits Fuso FE
Look again there Dougal...
The MD-TICS pumps control timing by moving the control sleeves up and down, effectively altering the point at which the injection event happens. So the governor moves them side to side and the prestroke actuator on the front of the pump moves them up and down, changing not only the injection time, but also duration.
The MD-TICS pumps control timing by moving the control sleeves up and down, effectively altering the point at which the injection event happens. So the governor moves them side to side and the prestroke actuator on the front of the pump moves them up and down, changing not only the injection time, but also duration.
define timing device..
From Fromage's build
Trigger wheel
Sensor
Sure looks like it.
Trigger wheel
Sensor
Sure looks like it.
Springs, flyweights and cams inside the drive gear which retard timing during startup and advance with increasing rpm. 4BD1T's and 4BD2T's have them.
I just remembered your post of a slotted drive gear for timing adjustment. Definitely no timing device in there.
- Thread starter
- #250
Wheelingnoob said:
Same driving as the other tanks. Some city and highway, mostly rural back roads at 60mph.
I retarded the timing, it was too far advanced. Turbo spools a bit sooner, EGTs actually stayed the same.
Wheelingnoob said:
I plan on calling to see if they will ship. Thank you very much for the link!
Glad to see the marked improvement in mileage with a simple timing adjustment.
No problem, I saw it last week when I was googling the Fuso. It looks like the next step for you and Fromage maybe cracking an ECU so having a spare will be handy and its cheap.
Cool. I would pitch in for a spare/test ECU. Just make sure it's a 4D3 and not the newer motor. Anyone local that can pick it up for us? The power of the internet never ceases to amaze.. 
- Thread starter
- #253
I pulled my injectors today and am dropping them off in the AM for a rebuild. Should have them back in a day or so, if not by the end of the week at the very latest. Will update once it's back on the road.
- Thread starter
- #254
Picking the injectors back up today. The shop said they were spraying fine, and rather than spend a lot of coin on new nozzles, they just cleaned the existing ones and reset the pressures.
Makes me glad I don't have to spend a ton of money on new nozzles, but I was actually hoping there was a problem so that there was a potential to solve my power/economy issue.
Fromage, how do you have your boost air temp sensor set up?
Makes me glad I don't have to spend a ton of money on new nozzles, but I was actually hoping there was a problem so that there was a potential to solve my power/economy issue.
Fromage, how do you have your boost air temp sensor set up?
- Thread starter
- #255
Good news/Bad news...
Good news, the truck idles smoother, quieter, and the miss at light throttle cruise seems to be gone.
Bad news, the truck has even less power now. No joke, 50-65MPH in 17 seconds, top speed of 68MPH.
I am going to tear into and re-do the entire fuel feed/return plumbing this weekend.
My current setup: Modified stock fuel sender assembly with 5/16" hard line in place of stock pump, feeding through stock 5/16" hard line all the way to the engine bay. Cut stock fuel pressure hose that goes from hard line to gasser fuel filter and stretched it over the inlet on the water separator. From separator to lift pump is 3/8", from lift pump to filter is 3/8", from filter to IP is 3/8". I am then using the stock 1/4" return line back to the tank.
My planned setup: Modify the sender assembly with a 1/2" 90* bulkhead fitting, going to 1/2" hard line all the way to the water separator. Then same as surrent setup, with 3/8" from the separator to lift pump, etc. I will then use the stock 5/16" feed line as my new return line. I am going to pull apart the water separator and clean the metal screen inside of it, and I am going to pull the banjo off the lift pump feed line and clean the small filter inside. Replacing all of the banjo fitting seals with new OEM rubberized metal seals from Mitsu as opposed to the copper crush washers I was using.
For what it's worth, the stock Fuso setup was 3/8" everywhere on the feed side and 5/16" on the return side. I did some research and I had no idea that the line sizes could have such an impact on performance, but every diesel resource I've read says they do, especially on inline pumps because of the high volume of fuel required. Could this be the source of my problems the whole time? We'll see...
Good news, the truck idles smoother, quieter, and the miss at light throttle cruise seems to be gone.
Bad news, the truck has even less power now. No joke, 50-65MPH in 17 seconds, top speed of 68MPH.
I am going to tear into and re-do the entire fuel feed/return plumbing this weekend.
My current setup: Modified stock fuel sender assembly with 5/16" hard line in place of stock pump, feeding through stock 5/16" hard line all the way to the engine bay. Cut stock fuel pressure hose that goes from hard line to gasser fuel filter and stretched it over the inlet on the water separator. From separator to lift pump is 3/8", from lift pump to filter is 3/8", from filter to IP is 3/8". I am then using the stock 1/4" return line back to the tank.
My planned setup: Modify the sender assembly with a 1/2" 90* bulkhead fitting, going to 1/2" hard line all the way to the water separator. Then same as surrent setup, with 3/8" from the separator to lift pump, etc. I will then use the stock 5/16" feed line as my new return line. I am going to pull apart the water separator and clean the metal screen inside of it, and I am going to pull the banjo off the lift pump feed line and clean the small filter inside. Replacing all of the banjo fitting seals with new OEM rubberized metal seals from Mitsu as opposed to the copper crush washers I was using.
For what it's worth, the stock Fuso setup was 3/8" everywhere on the feed side and 5/16" on the return side. I did some research and I had no idea that the line sizes could have such an impact on performance, but every diesel resource I've read says they do, especially on inline pumps because of the high volume of fuel required. Could this be the source of my problems the whole time? We'll see...
My 4BD1T has 3/8" line and it's not restricting the power. I'd be looking for filter screens hidden inside banjo bolts and things like that.
- Thread starter
- #257
Understood, but as I said my truck currently has 5/16" line from the tank to the water separator, then 3/8" from there on, so I'm thinking the 10-12 feet of 5/16" might be an issue.
I am also thinking I have an air in fuel issue, so I am stopping today after work for some clear tubing to put on the return side of things.
Mine is in the tube on the cold side of the intercooler. I just tapped the pipe and added the sensor. It is working as I checked resistance and if I unplug it, I get a CEL and a code.
There is definitely something up. I can run down the road at 90 mph if I want to, and 50 to 65 is actually bearable. It's tough to give you a real idea of acceleration times around here as all the roads are at an incline, very little flat highway. I would say my 0-65 time is around the 18 to 20 second mark, which is pretty slow, but after a bit of seat time, I am sure the ECU is cutting the fuel above 15PSI or so.
One thing to check, there is a little filter inside the banjo bolt on the inlet to the lift pump. Mine had some crud in it, yours might too, and this would restrict the fuel flow quite a bit. Before I re-plumbed everything I would rig up an underhood temporary fuel tank out of a pepsi bottle and a length of 3/8 hose and see if anything changes. Mine definitely does not have a fuel starvation issue at speed, and the fuel system is pretty much exactly the same.
It sucks that you are having so many issues. Are you sure you just don't have the timing way too retarded? That would reduce power a lot, and the injectors popping later would make the issue worse.
I am going to send out the governor today...
- Thread starter
- #259
Same here, just wondering if yours was measuring ambient temps, which would result in more fuel.
Agreed.
I amy try this tomorrow if I have some time in the afternoon. I don't really get any time to work on the truck during the week, only on Friday and the weekends. There's trouble in that, becaus eI spend all week researching possible causes and end up changing 10 things at once.
I don't think timing is my issue. I really think it is just a fuel starvation issue, or air in fuel. I stopped in at the local Fuso dealer to pick up new coppers when I picked up my injectors. They mentioned that these trucks were generally "a bit smokey" even when running right, and I can't emphasize enough that I get nothing out of the exhaust. No black smoke, no white smoke, no blue smoke, NOTHING. This really leads me to believe the truck is just starved for fuel. I prefer to be on the safe side and I'm going to redo all of the fuel supply stuff in one shot.
The techs at the dealer did say it is much more common to have the lift pump go than anything else. Either not supplying enough fuel or allowing air into the system. But my truck should definitely smoke when full throttle, especially since the DPF that was in the stock muffler is gone now.
I'm not arguing that your truck doesn't have fueling issues, but it is possible that both are having starvation issues, just that mine are much much worse than yours due to other mechanical bits.
Heck, I'm tempted to go check the filter in that banjo at lunch!!
Mine is clean as a whistle at speed, but off idle and on acceleration it smokes... like a Fuso! I still have the stock tailpipe pointing straight back, so it can be difficult to see, but I had someone else drive it and it's quite noticeable.
Were you talking 68 mph corrected or indicated? I think we both have the speedometer off by a similar percentage, I routinely drive it at 75 mph indicated, which equates to even more actual. It won't pull any kind of decent hill at that speed, but neither did the 1FZ.
A couple of things you can easily check - see if the resistance for the MAP sensor changes when you feed it pressure (up to about 20PSI) I unplugged the pressure line from mine and the truck ran basically like you are describing.
Fuel starvation is also a definite possibility. They are bad for ingesting air at the banjo bolt washers. I had to replace them all in order to get it to suck from the tank. It would only leak air in, and not fuel out. Took me a while to figure that one out!
Were you talking 68 mph corrected or indicated? I think we both have the speedometer off by a similar percentage, I routinely drive it at 75 mph indicated, which equates to even more actual. It won't pull any kind of decent hill at that speed, but neither did the 1FZ.
A couple of things you can easily check - see if the resistance for the MAP sensor changes when you feed it pressure (up to about 20PSI) I unplugged the pressure line from mine and the truck ran basically like you are describing.
Fuel starvation is also a definite possibility. They are bad for ingesting air at the banjo bolt washers. I had to replace them all in order to get it to suck from the tank. It would only leak air in, and not fuel out. Took me a while to figure that one out!
