- Thread starter
- #201
I was thinking about that... but to make the lockup better, it would hurt the shift points, and to make the shift points better it would hurt the lockup. :-/
Mitsubishi 4D34-2AT3B diesel swap into 96 FZJ80
- Thread starter SuperHatch
- Start date
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Maybe switch it in and out. You could tie it into the power/economy switch.
The last auto car I had, I wired in a lockup over-ride switch. For driving in hills it was necessary. Mine was pretty basic but by tying it in to an accelerator position switch it would be a lot less intensive to use.
The last auto car I had, I wired in a lockup over-ride switch. For driving in hills it was necessary. Mine was pretty basic but by tying it in to an accelerator position switch it would be a lot less intensive to use.
- Thread starter
- #203
I was thinking about switching it, and I'm sure I could make it work... maybe with using the 2nd gear start button since it is unused now. My issue is that I want this truck to do everything "on it's own" like a stock vehicle would. My wife drives it on occasion and she is the furthest thing from a "car person" that I've ever known.
On the power subject...
I put some 0.250" spacers between the wastegate actuator and the turbo, essentially increasing the spring tension. What a huge difference, the truck feels like what I expected now, not a rocketship, but torque galore. Boost comes on a sooner now, but full boost is still lazy in my opinion. It's like the boost curve shifted to the left by a few hundred RPM. Once it's at full boost though, the truck really moves. Putting my foot down in first or second gear gives a good surge of torque. EGTs are still up there though, 1000-1200 degrees. This is pre-turbo right at the entrance of the turbine housing. The port entering the turbo is super small on this engine (Like 1" x 1.5") and I think the exhaust restriction is causing the high EGT.
There is a ton of material available in the manifold to port out the turbo connection, but an adaptor may be necessary to get it to a common bolt pattern. I'm going to CAD something up using the old gasket and see what I come up with. Suggestions for turbo size on a 3.9L 3200RPM diesel engine? I want to reliably push 20psi...
On the power subject...
I put some 0.250" spacers between the wastegate actuator and the turbo, essentially increasing the spring tension. What a huge difference, the truck feels like what I expected now, not a rocketship, but torque galore. Boost comes on a sooner now, but full boost is still lazy in my opinion. It's like the boost curve shifted to the left by a few hundred RPM. Once it's at full boost though, the truck really moves. Putting my foot down in first or second gear gives a good surge of torque. EGTs are still up there though, 1000-1200 degrees. This is pre-turbo right at the entrance of the turbine housing. The port entering the turbo is super small on this engine (Like 1" x 1.5") and I think the exhaust restriction is causing the high EGT.
There is a ton of material available in the manifold to port out the turbo connection, but an adaptor may be necessary to get it to a common bolt pattern. I'm going to CAD something up using the old gasket and see what I come up with. Suggestions for turbo size on a 3.9L 3200RPM diesel engine? I want to reliably push 20psi...
Did you plug the pop off valve on the manifold yet? I would hold off on thinking about turbo upgrades until we've had a chance to see what it does with an actual 20 PSI and the wastegate opening. Someone on here has this very same TD05 on a 4BD1T and it apparently works fine to 20 PSI plus. I think that with a bit more fuel so it lights up at a lower RPM (comes into 15 psi in second) it will change things pretty drastically. The EGTs are in the safe zone, and they won't go up so long as there is sufficient air, and that is out problem right now.
Glad you are liking it better. Mine has been a bit rough at idle since I built it and it's a bit of a hard starter (you need to floor the pedal so it lights right up). I had suspected the injectors were not popping correctly, and they were out by a significant margin, 1.8 MPA instead of the spec of 2.6. Since I'm rebuilding the swivels, it will be a few days before I can test it out.
On the trans shift points, not sure what can be done. Mine is definitely driveable as-is, just not fast, and my wife doesn't care much about how it shifts, so long as it doesn't get stuck in the snow!
I love driving it in town now, the torque is just so ubelieveable, it leaps from stoplights, whereas the 1FZ always seemed to be wheezing.
Glad you are liking it better. Mine has been a bit rough at idle since I built it and it's a bit of a hard starter (you need to floor the pedal so it lights right up). I had suspected the injectors were not popping correctly, and they were out by a significant margin, 1.8 MPA instead of the spec of 2.6. Since I'm rebuilding the swivels, it will be a few days before I can test it out.
On the trans shift points, not sure what can be done. Mine is definitely driveable as-is, just not fast, and my wife doesn't care much about how it shifts, so long as it doesn't get stuck in the snow!
I love driving it in town now, the torque is just so ubelieveable, it leaps from stoplights, whereas the 1FZ always seemed to be wheezing.
- Thread starter
- #205
Not yet, ordered the plug today, should have it by the weekend. I'm still getting used to the fact that more boost will lower the EGTs!
I'm also convinced that the resistor determines the fuel rate, just like a 6.5L GM resistor. I'm just not sure if a higher resistance is more fuel or less? I'm going to experiment, but not until I've got the boost sorted. I'm also going to play with the tach... we'll see if I come up with anything.
I'm glad I'm liking it better too. The roughness at idle is only frustrating at times, and my trans mount is half broken so I'm sure that's not helping anything. Mine has never had a problem starting, but I've also got the glow plugs wired up... so take that for what it is.
I hate the front axle service, but it's nice to have the peace of mind that it's been done. I feel your pain...
I'm not sure either short of a standalone TCU. It's not annoying enough to go that route yet, but I might just do that someday if I don't figure something else out. I'm more annoyed with how late the converter locks, if it would lock at 40MPH+ I'd be happy. The driveability between locked and unlocked is day and night.
I agree with the torque off of a stop, it's really amazing.
According to the Isuzu AW450 manual (and it is possible but unlikely that the Mitsu version is different), the TCU uses Vehicle Speed Sensor 2 as the primary source of speed information. This is the same sensor that drives the speedometer so, if the speedometer is reading correctly, the TCM is getting the correct speed information. However, even with the correct speed info, the TCM will shift the transmission as appropriate for an 18,000 lb truck.
You can check the calibration of VSS-2 by marking off a distance of 1/100th of a mile (52', 9.5") and driving or pushing the truck over this distance. Using a continuity tester across the terminals of VSS-2, you should see 40 pulses.
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- #207
I checked that manual as well and was curious... but the Fuso's speedometer was cable driven, there is no VSS-2, and the speedo cluster does not have a VSS output to feed the trans computer. Kinda has me stumped.
Whoa, wait a sec. My Toyota VSS does not talk to the TCM at all. I use the Aisin sensor in the trans rear housing, which looks at the trans output shaft speed and reads off the parking brake pawl ring, for the TCM. The VSS on the T case reads driveshaft speed only and runs the speedo. I think that is some cases, Aisin uses the second speedo VSS as a redundant sensor for back-up, but this is not the case with the Fuso as there is only one sensor from ther factory. Furthermore, using the sensor on the t case output would cause issues in low range.
- Thread starter
- #209
Neither does mine!
That what has me thinking. Both the Euro 3 and Austrailia 4D34 Canter wiring diagrams show a speedo input to the ECU from the vehicle speed sensor. It is a 12V/GND/SIG type sensor, just like the yota one. The Isuzu AW450-43LE trans manual also shows a speedo input to the TCU from the same type of sensor.
On the Fuso I pulled my motor from, the speedo was driven off the trans output shaft via a cable, and on the cluster there is no output from the speedo that feeds back to the ECU/TCU. I physically inspected the cluster myself.
The only speed sensor the TCU cares about is the output shaft speed sensor as found on the extension housing, it reads the park gear just as you described.
According to the Isuzu manual, there are two speed sensors that are used by the TCM. VSS-2 is the primary one that also drives the speedometer. It is the one that fits into the hole where the speedometer cable gear would normally go. The sensor that senses off the park gear (VSS-1) is the secondary sensor which is used only if the primary sensor fails. Of course, the manual could have it backwards. I have found other errors in the manual. Obviously, the Mitsu is different.
I was able to take the VSS-2 from the AW-450 extension housing and install it into the T-case speedo hole without any trouble. I was concerned as to what would happen in low range but it seems to work fine. I haven't had any issues (yet)) with shifting in low range, at least not when I ran the truck up on stands.
Just for clarification, the FJZ80 uses an electronic speedometer that is driven off a sensor that fits into the speedometer gear hole on the T-case? And the Mitsu AW450 TCM is only connected to the sensor that picks up from the park gear?
Just for grins, I went and looked at my VSS-2. It is actually made up of two parts: A standard gear drive that would normally accept a speedometer cable and the sensor that screw on to the gear drive in place of the speedometer cable.
Edit: I did some test runs with my NPR this evening and I'm beginning to think the the FSM may have the primary and backup vehicle speed sensors reversed. If so, this would invalidate a lot of what I said above. I'll have to do some more tests.
I was able to take the VSS-2 from the AW-450 extension housing and install it into the T-case speedo hole without any trouble. I was concerned as to what would happen in low range but it seems to work fine. I haven't had any issues (yet)) with shifting in low range, at least not when I ran the truck up on stands.
Just for clarification, the FJZ80 uses an electronic speedometer that is driven off a sensor that fits into the speedometer gear hole on the T-case? And the Mitsu AW450 TCM is only connected to the sensor that picks up from the park gear?
Just for grins, I went and looked at my VSS-2. It is actually made up of two parts: A standard gear drive that would normally accept a speedometer cable and the sensor that screw on to the gear drive in place of the speedometer cable.
Edit: I did some test runs with my NPR this evening and I'm beginning to think the the FSM may have the primary and backup vehicle speed sensors reversed. If so, this would invalidate a lot of what I said above. I'll have to do some more tests.
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bad ass badboy
you guys are way out of my league ,but i would start simple and cheap.shim the waste gate more ,try no air filter remove gas cap.and fix the motor mount cause it looks tight on the oil filter. great work all over especially the trany, funny nobody doesnt play with these things more. not that i know what im talking about but can you fool the trany to think its going slower so the lockup wont come on so early .soliniod over ride ,or somekind of a pin mode for 2nd shift, plus is there shiming or something that can be done externally to the v/b that changes flow to the t/c (gvw 5000kg vs 10000kgs)and i saw gbenick was on this thread ,sounds like you would be a good canidate for a badboy turbo for that mthing(looked like lots of meat to tweek there. )i can hardly wait to see what the fix was ,cause i know you will get it .so i will just laugh at myself right now LOL
you guys are way out of my league ,but i would start simple and cheap.shim the waste gate more ,try no air filter remove gas cap.and fix the motor mount cause it looks tight on the oil filter. great work all over especially the trany, funny nobody doesnt play with these things more. not that i know what im talking about but can you fool the trany to think its going slower so the lockup wont come on so early .soliniod over ride ,or somekind of a pin mode for 2nd shift, plus is there shiming or something that can be done externally to the v/b that changes flow to the t/c (gvw 5000kg vs 10000kgs)and i saw gbenick was on this thread ,sounds like you would be a good canidate for a badboy turbo for that mthing(looked like lots of meat to tweek there. )i can hardly wait to see what the fix was ,cause i know you will get it .so i will just laugh at myself right now LOL
cruiserbrett
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #213
Thats exactly what the VSS sensor is like that comes in the 80 series. A gear drive and a sensor that screws into it.
The more I drive the truck, the more I realize that the one shift that really annoys me is the 2-3 upshift... it seems to come too early. The 1-2 seems ok at WOT and I can control the 3-4 easily with the OD button. I mean the 2-3 can be controlled easily too, but I just wish the "Power" mode actually did something. The Fuso had a power button and I connected the input to the Cruisers button, but I fear the TCU actually wants 12V, not GND. The Isuzu TCU manual doesn't show any wiring for Power mode, so I really have no way to check it right now.
I actually want to get a better air filter, like a K&N (No MAF to worry about contaminating).
I was thinking about converter work as well, the stall RPM seems a bit high. I really need to get the Tach working ASAP before I can make any real assumptions though.
That is a great option, very price-friendly. Of course I'm not all that great with soldering my own TCU together either, and they don't sell the MegaShift in an assembled form. Sigh...
Overfill the trans by 2 litres.
- Thread starter
- #215
I presume you are using the deep A442F pan and dipstick but with a 450-43LE filter. The high level mark is lower on the A442F than the 450-43LE. This combo on mine resulted in a lot of cavitation and weird shifting until I put it at the level it would be in the 450-43LE, which is about 1-2L higher than the dipstick mark on the 450-43LE. You can't put an A442F filter on it as there is an extra passage that is not provided for in the Toyota filter. Let me know what you did for a pan ect. Mine shifted way better with a bit of extra fluid.
One the power button, I did not notice a difference but I had it hooked to either switched 12V or ground, cannot remember, and I think I had it opposite of what it should be. I thought it would change the transmission shift points etc but I have no idea what it actually does. Maybe it's a placebo
- Thread starter
- #217
Well, I guess I am that transparent... I used the A442F pan/dipstick and an AW450-43LE filter as well, so even on the full mark I'm a bit low. Good to know!
One the power button, I did not notice a difference but I had it hooked to either switched 12V or ground, cannot remember, and I think I had it opposite of what it should be. I thought it would change the transmission shift points etc but I have no idea what it actually does. Maybe it's a placebo
I have it hooked up as it normally would in an A343F equipped 80, the power button provided a GND connection to the corresponding pin on the ECM.
The problem is, I'm not sure if the AW450 wants a GND or 12V for that trigger, and I have no wiring diagram to verify. If it wants a GND then I've got it right, and you're correct... it does nothing, lol.
cruiserbrett
GOLD Star
If you head over to the http://www.msefi.com/ forum, I am sure someone will be willing to build the kit. There are folks that build/test the megasquirts for others.
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- Thread starter
- #219
This is a sweet swap and has me really questioning my plan to buy a HDJ81 some day for a doner.
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