- Thread starter
- #181
Mitsubishi 4D34-2AT3B diesel swap into 96 FZJ80
- Thread starter SuperHatch
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Beautiful job!
Looks and sounds great. Nice work and outstanding job on the transmission. My hats off to you and ASTR on these auto trans swaps!
Doug
Doug
- Thread starter
- #184
Thanks guys! Don't forget Fromage in that group!
Awesome! Have you driven it yet? Sounds great! They sound louder on camera, when they are warm they are surprisingly quiet...
How did the wiring go? Pretty straightforward but time consuming huh? It took me a good solid weekend I think.
Mine really woke up with the 3 inch exhaust (not done yet, will probably be better with the full pipe). I am looking forward to your driving impressions. I was starting to think that mine was a little slow, but I have been driving a friend's 4runner while I changed the front pump o ring on mine and the FZJ kicks the 4 runner's butt on a drag race, no question!
I think if we can get a bit more fuel it will really go like a bat outta hell...
How did the wiring go? Pretty straightforward but time consuming huh? It took me a good solid weekend I think.
Mine really woke up with the 3 inch exhaust (not done yet, will probably be better with the full pipe). I am looking forward to your driving impressions. I was starting to think that mine was a little slow, but I have been driving a friend's 4runner while I changed the front pump o ring on mine and the FZJ kicks the 4 runner's butt on a drag race, no question!
I think if we can get a bit more fuel it will really go like a bat outta hell...
- Thread starter
- #187
Awesome! Have you driven it yet? Sounds great! They sound louder on camera, when they are warm they are surprisingly quiet...
How did the wiring go? Pretty straightforward but time consuming huh? It took me a good solid weekend I think.
Mine really woke up with the 3 inch exhaust (not done yet, will probably be better with the full pipe). I am looking forward to your driving impressions. I was starting to think that mine was a little slow, but I have been driving a friend's 4runner while I changed the front pump o ring on mine and the FZJ kicks the 4 runner's butt on a drag race, no question!
I think if we can get a bit more fuel it will really go like a bat outta ****...
I drove it around the block, no more since the registration is expired and there is no intake on it yet. I am heading out for the week for work, but I will register it today before I go and will finish the odds and ends this weekend when I get back. Then I can get some real driving impressions. The torque in first gear is impressive to say the least, but the trans does feel quite lazy in its shifts, not sure if that is normal or not. Or if I'm just being too much of a pansy on the pedal.
The wiring was... a challenge. It took me every bit of 24 hours of labor to complete. three solid 8 hour days. This included extending my washer motor lead, wiring the fans, and wiring the IC pump. Definitely not a job for the faint of heart. Once I got on a roll it started moving along at a good pace. I easily soldered over 300 connections, went through a ton of heat shrink and solder.
I don't have any real power impressions yet, but if the torque in first is any indication, this will be plenty powerful for everything I do with it.
- Thread starter
- #188
Oh yea, I meant to ask you... did you use the MUTIC, or did you just put a manual switch in for the glow plugs? I used the MUTIC...
Time to open up the ECU then.
I have not wired the glow plugs yet. It has started fine in -2 degree C weather so far. I intend to wire them up fully manual with a momentary switch. This probably cut down a lot on the wiring. I ditched the MUTIC, and I have a mechanical fan, plus an air to air charge air cooler, so no pumps etc.
Are you happy with it? Vibrations etc? Just remember that it's only 145 hp stock, and there is lots of potential there... I can't wait to swap out the resistor...
- Thread starter
- #191
Hopefully not, but we'll see.
Yea, without the glow wiring, MUTIC, etc, there is definitely less wiring to do. The MUTIC appears to be functioning properly, we'll see once winter cold really rolls in.
I took it for it's first real drive today, and with the engine cold... I almost completely regretted the conversion. The engine was much noisier than anticipated on acceleration and there was virtually no power at all. The truck struggled to make it to 50MPH.
However, once it got up to operating temps, it was a completely different story. I don't want to say the truck was powerful, but it certainly felt about the same as the 1FZ. I have a boost gauge and EGT on order, they should be here by the weekend... I'm curious what boost level I'm currently running and how it compares to your setup. I also wonder if the higher number resistors are actually less fuel, or if they really do anything to the max fueling at all.
As far as vibrations go, it is without a doubt rougher than the 1FZ, but that was to be expected. At cruise and anywhere off idle it is much better.
Whenever you make it to Jersey we should meet up to compare.
SuperHatch - great owrk on this swap. I've read all pages of this thread with interest. One thing I wasn't clear about - maybe you can recap which parts of the A450 you ended up using vs which parts of the A442. Do I have this order right:
Bellhousing, TC, valve body, rotating assembly, and the case all from A450.
Only the tail shaft from A442 and the far end, then custom spacer between the trans and finally the A44s transfer case? Right?
Glad you got it on the road already - impressive.
Thx,
James
Bellhousing, TC, valve body, rotating assembly, and the case all from A450.
Only the tail shaft from A442 and the far end, then custom spacer between the trans and finally the A44s transfer case? Right?
Glad you got it on the road already - impressive.
Thx,
James
- Thread starter
- #193
Hey James,
I'll do my best to recap.
Everything is AW450, except:
A442F Output Shaft
A442F Extension Housing
A442F Gear Selector Rod
Custom Extension Housing Spacer
I used the AW450 Park Rod, you SHOULD use the A442F Park Rod, modified for additional length equal to the thickness of your spacer.
I used a spacer from either the AW450 or A442F, I can't remember which, for spacing the park gear. It is a modified part, and it'd be obvious what it's from when looking at the pictures I posted.
I also made a spacer for the TC shifter, and you SHOULD extend the TC shifter rod by the same length as the thickness of your extension housing spacer. I didn't do this and it's on my to-do list to pull the rod out and lengthen it. Because I didn't do this my shifter is very far forward when in "H".
Thanks for the compliments. I am tieing up some odds and ends tomorrow and then it's on the road for good.
- Thread starter
- #194
Finished Product
Well, my project is complete. I've logged 200 miles this past weekend and all is well. The truck runns excellent and hasn't had a single issue. I finished up some odds and ends over the past week, including the intake, heat shielding, installing some gauges, and buttoning up the interior.
Impressions:
The driveability is excellent. I have let a number of friends drive the truck, and the unanimous opinion is that "if I didn't know the truck didn't come like this from the factory, I wouldn't". I take that as very high praise. There is nothing special that needs to be done to drive it, and every option works, including A/C, with the exception of Cruise Control and the Tachometer. Both of which I have plans for.
My personal opinion is a combination of satisfaction and disappointment. I am very satisfied with the finished product, the fit and finish, and how well everything works. My disappointment comes in the performance department. Quite simply, the truck is slow. It wasn't a rocketship with the 1FZ, and I don't believe it to be any slower or faster now. I guess I was hoping for a noticeable improvement in performance, but if there is, I can't detect it. However, this might be due to a number of issues that I am not yet aware of. I do have some theories though.
Theory 1 - Transmission Programming:
The TCU is programmed to move a vehicle with a 5.71:1 final drive on 30" tall tires. My truck has the stock 4.11:1 gears on 33" tall tires. This is a net reduction in gearing of 53%. That means that while my speedometer is indicating a speed of 48MPH, the TCU thinks I am going 31MPH. This does funny things with converter lockup behavior and shift points in general. Remember, the TCU does not use the speedo sensor to determine shift points, etc. It uses the output shaft revolution sensor, which is completely independant.
Also, when at Wide Open Throttle, the transmission shifts early, I do not have a way to monitor engine RPM, but as soon as the engine feels as though it is getting into its powerband, the transmission shifts. If I manually select gears it will pull much stronger and can stay in each gear much longer. I have verified the pedal position sensor output voltages against the FSM and they appear to be correct. There are no codes reported by the ECU or TCU.
Theory 2 - Tired Turbo:
Since installing a boost gauge and EGT gauge, I have been able to monitor the boost levels and exhaust temps. When doing WOT pulls (in automatic mode) the boost slowly creeps up to 10-12psi. And as soon as it gets there, the truck upshifts. most of the time, I rarely see over 9psi. I installed a manual boost controller and now see 15psi before shifting, but again, at lower RPMS (1800-2000 by my calculations) and WOT, there is only 8 or 9 psi available. The EGTs are always in the 1050-1200 degree range at WOT.
Theory 3 - Fuel Starvation:
The factory fuso fuel lines were 3/8" feed and 5/16" return, the 80's lines are 5/16" feed and 1/4" return. I am thinking this may be a restriction but I have my doubts as the stock fuel lines on the 80 support quite high HP levels for the gassers.
Thoughts?
Anywho, onto the pictures.
Well, my project is complete. I've logged 200 miles this past weekend and all is well. The truck runns excellent and hasn't had a single issue. I finished up some odds and ends over the past week, including the intake, heat shielding, installing some gauges, and buttoning up the interior.
Impressions:
The driveability is excellent. I have let a number of friends drive the truck, and the unanimous opinion is that "if I didn't know the truck didn't come like this from the factory, I wouldn't". I take that as very high praise. There is nothing special that needs to be done to drive it, and every option works, including A/C, with the exception of Cruise Control and the Tachometer. Both of which I have plans for.
My personal opinion is a combination of satisfaction and disappointment. I am very satisfied with the finished product, the fit and finish, and how well everything works. My disappointment comes in the performance department. Quite simply, the truck is slow. It wasn't a rocketship with the 1FZ, and I don't believe it to be any slower or faster now. I guess I was hoping for a noticeable improvement in performance, but if there is, I can't detect it. However, this might be due to a number of issues that I am not yet aware of. I do have some theories though.
Theory 1 - Transmission Programming:
The TCU is programmed to move a vehicle with a 5.71:1 final drive on 30" tall tires. My truck has the stock 4.11:1 gears on 33" tall tires. This is a net reduction in gearing of 53%. That means that while my speedometer is indicating a speed of 48MPH, the TCU thinks I am going 31MPH. This does funny things with converter lockup behavior and shift points in general. Remember, the TCU does not use the speedo sensor to determine shift points, etc. It uses the output shaft revolution sensor, which is completely independant.
Also, when at Wide Open Throttle, the transmission shifts early, I do not have a way to monitor engine RPM, but as soon as the engine feels as though it is getting into its powerband, the transmission shifts. If I manually select gears it will pull much stronger and can stay in each gear much longer. I have verified the pedal position sensor output voltages against the FSM and they appear to be correct. There are no codes reported by the ECU or TCU.
Theory 2 - Tired Turbo:
Since installing a boost gauge and EGT gauge, I have been able to monitor the boost levels and exhaust temps. When doing WOT pulls (in automatic mode) the boost slowly creeps up to 10-12psi. And as soon as it gets there, the truck upshifts. most of the time, I rarely see over 9psi. I installed a manual boost controller and now see 15psi before shifting, but again, at lower RPMS (1800-2000 by my calculations) and WOT, there is only 8 or 9 psi available. The EGTs are always in the 1050-1200 degree range at WOT.
Theory 3 - Fuel Starvation:
The factory fuso fuel lines were 3/8" feed and 5/16" return, the 80's lines are 5/16" feed and 1/4" return. I am thinking this may be a restriction but I have my doubts as the stock fuel lines on the 80 support quite high HP levels for the gassers.
Thoughts?
Anywho, onto the pictures.
- Thread starter
- #195
More...
- Thread starter
- #196
Even More...
- Thread starter
- #197
Last Two...
Did you notice a difference in shift points between econo and power mode? I had mine wired up incorrectly and have not fixed it yet.
Mine was very slow until I fed it more boost. I am getting 18-20 PSI with no fueling mods, with the dump valve opening. Major seat of the pants difference. It is no rocketship but it is much more manageable. I also just had the injectors pop tested and they were way out so I think that may be a reason that it is a bit sluggish. Mine was a dog at first but I have to say that, other than a too quick upshift into 3rd, it goes pretty good with the added boost.
I have a 1" BSP plug on order for the pop off valve and will set it fo 20 PSI with the wastegate to see what happens. It definitely does not defuel at higher boost levels.
I also think it could use a bigger turbo, but I will see about getting as much out of the stock one as I can. I found that with the stock spring, the wastegate was boost creeping like crazy. Wire it up with mechanics wire and see how it does.
Mine was very slow until I fed it more boost. I am getting 18-20 PSI with no fueling mods, with the dump valve opening. Major seat of the pants difference. It is no rocketship but it is much more manageable. I also just had the injectors pop tested and they were way out so I think that may be a reason that it is a bit sluggish. Mine was a dog at first but I have to say that, other than a too quick upshift into 3rd, it goes pretty good with the added boost.
I have a 1" BSP plug on order for the pop off valve and will set it fo 20 PSI with the wastegate to see what happens. It definitely does not defuel at higher boost levels.
I also think it could use a bigger turbo, but I will see about getting as much out of the stock one as I can. I found that with the stock spring, the wastegate was boost creeping like crazy. Wire it up with mechanics wire and see how it does.
- Thread starter
- #199
I see absolutely no difference when I push the power button. Since the Fuso FSM does not cover the AT, I am using the Isuzu AT FSM, and it is not exactly the same. Having a little difficulty figuring things out.
I will crank up my boost controller this week and see if that changes things... I also think I need to manually tighten the wastegate actuator, as it may be bleeding exhaust gas by at all times, causing the lazy feeling and slow buildup of boost.
Still thinking about that fuel resistor too...
