Missing Lower Strut bolt Where to source a new one? (1 Viewer)

[Knowbuddy]

Well I have been shot in the foot by the same shop again. First we had problems with my tie rods not being tight, That was a fun experience. Then a missing bolt from my sway bar like that they swear they didn't tough to remove and install the rear spring and strut. Now today I hear a clunk while hitting a mild bump from the drivers side front wheel well. Go to investigate and here is what I found. They treated me very well in the past doing the suspension on my 5th gen 4runner but my entire experience with them doing the suspension on my 100 series has been nothing but headaches. I am honestly paranoid to drive it now. I could have avoided all this nonsense by doing it myself I know but that is where I am at now. I need a replacement bolt and nut. I understand they are 19mm where is the best place to get my hands on one. Autozone, OReilys , or advanced auto parts? Or do I need to order one from Toyota? Anyone have a part number? Best place to get one fast?

 

[red mud fj]

Had the lower shock bolt fallout about 10 years ago, it was original and never taken apart so they will work them selves loose. Same lower bolt has needed tightening a few times. Going to order new nuts and bolts from Toyota when I change out shocks.

 

[hoser]

AFAIK, Toyota/Lexus only. The bolt has hash marks on the mating surface that line up with the hash marks on lower mount. Helps keep it from rotating and loosening.

 

[TheForger]

Bolt w/Washer pn# 90119-14093 (x2) @ $3.39ea.
Nut pn# 90179-14045 (x2) @ $1.63ea.

*Based on 2000 LC fitment with prices obtained from ToyotaPartsDeal.com

AFAIK, Toyota/Lexus only. The bolt has hash marks on the mating surface that line up with the hash marks on lower mount. Helps keep it from rotating and loosening.

I can see from his pic that the marks didn't do a very good job with that...

Once you get new hardware, apply some loctite and make sure to torque those bolts with the full weight of the vehicle on the ground. Retorque after ~500mi. and periodically recheck torque once or twice a year.

 

[hoser]

Actually, I think it is the bolt that is mounted from the front, not the nut. I dunno.

 

[TheForger]

Actually, I think it is the bolt that is mounted from the front, not the nut. I dunno.

The bolt is inserted from the front and has the same marks to prevent them from backing out

 

[hoser]

I see a bolt and a spring washer. You see marks?

 

[TheForger]

I see a bolt and a spring washer. You see marks?

Well I thought I did but I guess not...but regardless, the bolt should be inserted from the front. At least that’s how it comes from the factory so it looks the the shop the PO used installed them backwards. I can’t say that installing it backwards was the reason for the bolt backing out but I’m sure it contributed.

 

[duggy]

This kinda perplexes me. Yes the bolt does get inserted from the front of the vehicle, and the back end of the nut has 4 serrated "teeth" to bite into the control arm to prevent loosening. The fact that they put it backwards, but we still see the teeth mark on the control arm says that they did tighten it to where it would contact. This also means that they did not loosen it from the nut side which would have sheared those teeth off from the nut side. Regardless of it being installed backwards, it should not have loosened up. I imagine these were installed backwards because this is standard on the 120/150 series coilover bolts.

Get a new bolt/nut from Toyota, put some blue loctite on it and mark the heads so you can keep an eye on movement.

 

[gatormark91]

It is an M14x1.5 bolt, same thread as a wheel nut. If you ever lose the nut on the trail or road, but not the bolt, a standard 14x1.5 wheel nut will do in a pinch until you get a new one.

Get the right bolt and nut from Toyota, and a spare of each. Keep the spares in the truck. Since most dealers won't carry this in stock, order it online from Toyotapartsdeal. Get an M14 bolt and nut to stick in there from Home Depot until the Toyota part comes in. Use Loctite.

 

[Pucker5]

Hey, bringing up some old s*** but my suspension has been all over the place since I got out the shop and I could only think it’s my shocks. Turns out it’s the rear lower shock mount. Tons of play up and down, side to side , front and back. I figure the bushing is probably messed up now but I was going to try to tighten it first. Question is if it’s loose Can I tighten it with wheels on the ground?

 

[gatormark91]

Hey, bringing up some old s*** but my suspension has been all over the place since I got out the shop and I could only think it’s my shocks. Turns out it’s the rear lower shock mount. Tons of play up and down, side to side , front and back. I figure the bushing is probably messed up now but I was going to try to tighten it first. Question is if it’s loose Can I tighten it with wheels on the ground?

Yes, can do it on the ground. None of the truck's weight is actually on the shock.

 

[abuck99]

In fact it any suspension component- (shocks, control arms etc) should be tightened and torqued with wheels on the ground

 

[Pucker5]

Now my next silly question how much movement play shoukd there be where the bolt inserts into the. I got a lot

 

[SteveH]

Check to see if the bolt holes on the flange are egged out, or if the shock bushing is worn out, or both. There should be very little play between the bolt and the holes through which it passes.

 

[Pucker5]

I think the shock bushings are trashed

 

[abuck99]

Now my next silly question how much movement play shoukd there be where the bolt inserts into the. I got a lot

Lower shock mount ? There should be none- “0.0”

If the lower mounting bolt hole is oblong- you might be able to add some material by welding around the hole and redrilling to the right diameter- or just buy a new LCA (x2).

 

[nukegoat]

Lower shock mount ? There should be none- “0.0”

If the lower mounting bolt hole is oblong- you might be able to add some material by welding around the hole and redrilling to the right diameter- or just buy a new LCA (x2).

Or just torque the hell out of it and hope the clamping of the bushing is adequate

 

[suprarx7nut]

Perhaps I missed it, but an important note here on these shock bolts - they require threadlocker. The OEM bolts are pre-applied with threadlocker and are ONE TIME USE ONLY. Tighten it once and never again. Gotta remove it? Buy a new OEM bolt.

I don't think they are torque to yield and I think the Single Use Only is just for the thread locker, but there may be some thread deformation or TTY going on as well I suppose.

Regardless, do not re-use these. They will fall out.

 

[Pucker5]

Lower shock mount ? There should be none- “0.0”

If the lower mounting bolt hole is oblong- you might be able to add some material by welding around the hole and redrilling to the right diameter- or just buy a new LCA (x2).

Is this much space normal