It looks like a very well maintained engine. For reference, here's a 75,000 mile 5VZ that I bought from a wreck 3 years ago.
Misfire on Cylinder 8 and Oil in Intake Pipe -Investigation and Engine Swap (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter awesomeissquid
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awesomeissquid
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- #62
Halfway done with the readings and here is a preview. One of cylinder #2 intake valves is low on the allowed clearance. And I just realized I am using a 2000 FSM. I would assume a 2003 FSM states the clearance allowances, but I will need to check when I get home.
awesomeissquid
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- #63
Alright here are the final results of the valve clearance check on the replacement engine. Seems the valve clearance spec is the same in the 2004 FSM and 2000 FSM so I am going to assume it is the same for the 2003 MY engine. Only one valve was out of spec (highlighted). Since I am going to try cleaning/lapping the valves I will be going back through all the clearances again. Next on the agenda, pulling the heads.
Valve Clearance Specs (Cold)
Intake
- 0.15 - 0.25mm (0.006 - 0.010in.)
Exhaust
- 0.25 - 0.35mm (0.010 - 0.014in.)
Valve Clearance Specs (Cold)
Intake
- 0.15 - 0.25mm (0.006 - 0.010in.)
Exhaust
- 0.25 - 0.35mm (0.010 - 0.014in.)
awesomeissquid
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- #64
No update on pulling the heads yet. Going to attempt to do those on Thursday/Friday.
In the meantime, I am working to confirm I have all the necessary parts for a pending swap plus a steering rack replacement while its easy. A few things I need some input or help finding since I could not locate them through the various normal channels (existing forum threads/McGeorge/Partsouq).
In the meantime, I am working to confirm I have all the necessary parts for a pending swap plus a steering rack replacement while its easy. A few things I need some input or help finding since I could not locate them through the various normal channels (existing forum threads/McGeorge/Partsouq).
- FIPGs. I know I need the two, one for oil and one for coolant. In the FSM I see these two part numbers listed below. Can anyone confirm if these are correct? Also trying to estimate how many tubes of each I need to buy if anyone has any ideas. Planning for a full tear down so water pump, oil pump, rear main seal, oil pans, etc.
- Seal Packing Black - 08826-00080
- Seal Packing 1282B - 08826-00100
- Starter. The replacement engine came with a starter PN: 28100-50100. On Partsouq I see there are two options for my VIN since my build date is 3/2000. I think I recall in the past seeing something about one being for vehicles with the auto start function and the other for vehicles without, but of course I cant find that right now. Can anyone confirm that and/or if the two are interchangeable? I assume they are interchangeable since Partsouq shows the -50100 as a substitution for the -50070.
- 28100-50100 production date of 3/2000-8/2002
- 28100-50070 production date of 1/1998-3/2000.
- Exhaust Manifolds. I have looked over the manifolds a few times now and have not seen any indication of cracks. Does anyone have any ideas for how I could confirm this before installing them?
one tube of each is plenty.
including pump and rear retainer.
no comment on the starter.
manifolds- I just put new on without inspecting the old. Mine was a quick turn around. Still don't know if I'd trust old manifolds after spending 1-2+k on parts.
Although I'm on the overspending over maintaining side of the LC addiction.
Dark room bright flashlight? mag particle with friends in the business.
your thread has made me angry that I did not take the time to check clearances, even though it was just a reseal.
including pump and rear retainer.
no comment on the starter.
manifolds- I just put new on without inspecting the old. Mine was a quick turn around. Still don't know if I'd trust old manifolds after spending 1-2+k on parts.
Although I'm on the overspending over maintaining side of the LC addiction.
Dark room bright flashlight? mag particle with friends in the business.
your thread has made me angry that I did not take the time to check clearances, even though it was just a reseal.
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awesomeissquid
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- #67
Moved the engine yesterday to its new temporary home in my neighbors garage. They were kind enough to let me borrow it for the next few days while I pull the heads.
Started the removal process by finishing the timing belt removal. First order of business was of course running to the store to get all the things I didn’t have. Once I was back it was smooth sailing.
I was surprised by the amount of sand and debris that had made its way past the timing belt covers. From what I could see all the covers were on and sealed so I am guessing this is somewhat normal. Both the idler pulleys spun freely, but the water pump pulley had some friction and rotated but with more resistance than I would expect. Excited to get the new water pump so I can compare. The idler pulleys both had a line of wear on the pulley surface that I am not sure what could have caused it, maybe some coolant leak?
The tensioner dust cover did its job.
Under the water pump I found some minor surface rusting and some pitting like @2001LC usually talks about. Started cleaning it up a bit and will add some FIPG to fill the voids after the cleanup is finished.
Started the removal process by finishing the timing belt removal. First order of business was of course running to the store to get all the things I didn’t have. Once I was back it was smooth sailing.
I was surprised by the amount of sand and debris that had made its way past the timing belt covers. From what I could see all the covers were on and sealed so I am guessing this is somewhat normal. Both the idler pulleys spun freely, but the water pump pulley had some friction and rotated but with more resistance than I would expect. Excited to get the new water pump so I can compare. The idler pulleys both had a line of wear on the pulley surface that I am not sure what could have caused it, maybe some coolant leak?
The tensioner dust cover did its job.
Under the water pump I found some minor surface rusting and some pitting like @2001LC usually talks about. Started cleaning it up a bit and will add some FIPG to fill the voids after the cleanup is finished.
awesomeissquid
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- #68
RH head removed. All camshaft journals within FSM spec when checked with plastigage. Pistons look better than I thought they would from the borescope. Sprayed with WD40 and wrapped with plastic to prevent any rusting.
Any recommendations for clearing the old head gasket material? I was thinking of trying some Roloc pads and then vacuuming out all the ports really well.
Any recommendations for clearing the old head gasket material? I was thinking of trying some Roloc pads and then vacuuming out all the ports really well.
awesomeissquid
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LOL it was an adventure. Of course the ground is not smooth at all and I was a bit worried something was going to shear off so I kept the engine hoist attached as well. Had my wife push that and I pulled the engine stand. Somehow we made it across. Wish we had a third person to take a video, would have been great.I'd Like to see the video of you wheeling the engine & stand from your house across the street to the neighbors place>
awesomeissquid
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I did end up pulling the second (LH/DS) head on Sunday following the first. Again, each of the camshaft journals checked out fine per the FSM with plastigage. It’s amazing how much smaller the block looks with everything removed.
Lots of head gasket material to remove from the block and the head. After doing some more research and reading a bunch of 80 series threads (since they pull heads more often) I am going to abandon the idea of using the 3M Roloc. Instead I am going to follow what @OTRAMM suggests in his 80 series head gasket videos and primarily use a carbide scraper and finish it with a very light wet sand with some 800 grit wrapped in a piece of glass.
The two middle cylinders were the ones on this bank to have the poor leak down numbers (cylinder 3 upper middle, cylinder 5 lower middle).
Again, gave the cylinders a quick spray with some WD40 and wrapped in plastic to prevent any flash rusting. So many parts to keep track of.
So, two questions for our more knowledgeable individuals:
Lots of head gasket material to remove from the block and the head. After doing some more research and reading a bunch of 80 series threads (since they pull heads more often) I am going to abandon the idea of using the 3M Roloc. Instead I am going to follow what @OTRAMM suggests in his 80 series head gasket videos and primarily use a carbide scraper and finish it with a very light wet sand with some 800 grit wrapped in a piece of glass.
The two middle cylinders were the ones on this bank to have the poor leak down numbers (cylinder 3 upper middle, cylinder 5 lower middle).
Again, gave the cylinders a quick spray with some WD40 and wrapped in plastic to prevent any flash rusting. So many parts to keep track of.
So, two questions for our more knowledgeable individuals:
- When removing the carbon from the block, I am going to do my best to avoid getting any into the water/oil passageways. Should I try to block them off with bits of towel or am I worrying too much and it will all come out when I flush the block?
- When replacing the valve stem seals do they really just click into place by hand or do they need to be tapped down?
awesomeissquid
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- #72
Heads disassembled and prepping for valve lapping. All valve springs checked out okay. Valves don’t look too bad but will get cleaned up and also checked. I could definitely see spots on the cylinder 3 valves where they did not have a good seal so fingers crossed they can be fixed with some lapping.
Fun fact, the intake and exhaust valve stem seals all look the same (besides the stem opening size difference). I was expecting the exhaust to have an extra flange along the bottom. I tested out reinstalling one of the removed ones and they push on very simply by hand. The SST pushes on the ridge but I think using a fingertip gently will be okay.
In other news, I found some old FIPG wedged into the heat exchanger fins on the coolant inlet side of the oil cooler assembly. I removed what I could (see arrows), but I can see more between the fins so a replacement will be needed. I believe this occurred because a previous tech used both too much FIPG and also did not let it cure enough before starting the vehicle. If it was still flowable it would travel through the system and get wedged in the heat exchanger fins like I found since it basically acts as a giant filter. @2001LC or anyone else that works on these a lot, have you seen anything like this before?
Fun fact, the intake and exhaust valve stem seals all look the same (besides the stem opening size difference). I was expecting the exhaust to have an extra flange along the bottom. I tested out reinstalling one of the removed ones and they push on very simply by hand. The SST pushes on the ridge but I think using a fingertip gently will be okay.
In other news, I found some old FIPG wedged into the heat exchanger fins on the coolant inlet side of the oil cooler assembly. I removed what I could (see arrows), but I can see more between the fins so a replacement will be needed. I believe this occurred because a previous tech used both too much FIPG and also did not let it cure enough before starting the vehicle. If it was still flowable it would travel through the system and get wedged in the heat exchanger fins like I found since it basically acts as a giant filter. @2001LC or anyone else that works on these a lot, have you seen anything like this before?
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Are you offering this as a service? Outstanding job!
awesomeissquid
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- #74
The thought has crossed my mind. Maybe one day.
I may have missed seeing a new parts list posted: are you replacing the valve seals and also the valve cover seals ?(recommended).
Cleaning the block surface- I'd be very careful not to use abrasive if at all possible. Use chemical cleaners first ( there are a HG remover chems I think low VOC brake cleaner suffices), plastic scraper and cover up all the open passages & cylinders.
Cleaning the block surface- I'd be very careful not to use abrasive if at all possible. Use chemical cleaners first ( there are a HG remover chems I think low VOC brake cleaner suffices), plastic scraper and cover up all the open passages & cylinders.
awesomeissquid
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- #76
Yea, my parts list is a bit through...or maybe excessive is a better term. At last count there were 254 parts getting replaced. New gaskets all around along with new hoses. I will work on posting a consolidated list once it is finalized. The last order is going in today including any of the last minute items I missed originally or have found issues with.
Yeah, there's a number off pictures in mud. Where FIPG is in the oil cooler, on block side like you found. Only place it can come from, is water inlet FIPG seal.
Okay I shouldn't say this. But remember the oil you saw in bottom of a cylinder. If no oil trial coming down cylinder wall. It could be from oil ring. Since you've gone this deep. Perhaps hone and new rings. It just another 40 plus parts. No, I shouldn't have said anything. Really, forget it!
awesomeissquid
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So… I’m already thinking about new rings and have been for a few days now. Since I can see all the factory cross hatching I am a little hesitant to consider honing. I was thinking of just getting a ridge reamer to remove any carbon from the top so I can pop the pistons out and swap in new standard size rings.Yeah, there's a number off pictures in mud. Where FIPG is in the oil cooler, on block side like you found. Only place it can come from, is water inlet FIPG seal.
Okay I shouldn't say this. But remember the oil you saw in bottom of a cylinder. If no oil trial coming down cylinder wall. It could be from oil ring. Since you've gone this deep. Perhaps hone and new rings. It just another 40 plus parts. No, I shouldn't have said anything. Really, forget it!
What is your thought on this?
Trying to do everything myself so saving that sweet labor cost for more parts.
Speaking of parts….I think I have a problem, steering wheel for scale. Still waiting for a few more boxes. 1 week to go to get it all buttoned back up before install.
I'd not considered not honing. As hone is part of seating new rings.So… I’m already thinking about new rings and have been for a few days now. Since I can see all the factory cross hatching I am a little hesitant to consider honing. I was thinking of just getting a ridge reamer to remove any carbon from the top so I can pop the pistons out and swap in new standard size rings.
What is your thought on this?
Trying to do everything myself so saving that sweet labor cost for more parts.
Speaking of parts….I think I have a problem, steering wheel for scale. Still waiting for a few more boxes. 1 week to go to get it all buttoned back up before install.
View attachment 2961051
View attachment 2961052
I've not rebuilt a 2UZ yet. But I did pondered on doing so when I did a swap engine in The Unicorn. Issues to consider with honing is: stones, RPM and rhythm. FSM doesn't gives much in way of these details. As best, IMHO, would be to duplicate factory hone. Second issues is hone will increase bore. Modern rings are not filled end to fit. So bore size is all we have to work with. That and either std rings or 5 thousand over, if using OEM. Smaller the bore, tighter the gap.
So that's an interest though not honing. A question for mechanic shop that rebuilds.
awesomeissquid
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- #80
Hmmm yea I am not sure I want to go through all that. I think I will do the head work and then reassemble with the cheap head gasket so I can perform another leak down test to see how much leakage I have out of the rings. From there I can make a final call.
