mig or stick for SOA?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Mar 26, 2009
Threads
77
Messages
481
Location
canuxico
i am hoping to be in the throws of a spring over, before too long.

please forgive my newb-ness...(did i invent a word?lol)

but what would the readers of mud suggest for the cut and turn?
mig or stick?

i really don't know if it matters.
i heard a story of a steering knuckle breaking off on the rubicon, and i never want to be that guy.
thankz,
:banana::wrench:
 
Either process is fine. Really comes down to what equipment you have and what process you're more comfortable with. Process not as important as your level of skill for this particular application.

Just make sure you don't use a little 110v welder.
 
i am quite comfortable with a miller 251, but we have a couple of pressure welders at the shop. who i could extort a favor from. they all think stick is where it is at.
i do okay with stick, but have way more hours on the end of a mig gun. it would be my first choice.
thanks for the feedback.:banana::wrench:
 
Either process is fine. Really comes down to what equipment you have and what process you're more comfortable with. Process not as important as your level of skill for this particular application.

Just make sure you don't use a little 110v welder.

Not completely true. A good 110v welder like a Millermatic 140 should work just fine.
 
Not completely true. A good 110v welder like a Millermatic 140 should work just fine.

You really want to try to weld 1/4" wall tubing with a 110v welder? Have at it and I hope you have good liability insurance.

110v welders are really good for up to 1/8" thick steel using shielding gas. No way would I try to weld and penetrate 3/16" or thicker metal using a little 110v welder. Doesn't matter if it is Millermatic 140, Hobart 140, or Lincoln 135 (C or T) welder. You're limited to the output (140 amps) due to the input power source. I use my little Millermatic 110v welder for thin materials and sheet metal. Anything thicker than 1/8", I use my Millermatic 200.

Cruisernerd,

Millermatic 251 is an excellent welder and is perfect for what you're trying to do.
 
Last edited:
I agree, either process is actually fine. I've tried both of them before. Just make sure it's done properly.

__________________
Rancho Parts
 
Whatever machine you end up with, I'd make sure it's hooked to 220V & has a high duty cycle. The mig will be a little faster but it's also is more prone to build up & drip depending on your wire speed & technique. Make sure you read up on your heat settings & practice on some scrap before undertaking that SO task. Post up some examples of your welding progress.
 
Just completed my SOA with a 220V arc welder. Let's just say the perches are never coming off of the axle, so I'm glad I got the pinion angle correct, :lol:
 
So I take it that J.B.Weld would be out of the question...
 
So I take it that J.B.Weld would be out of the question...

Depends on how long you want to drive it for. If < 5 minutes, then JB weld would be fine.:p
 
Not completely true. A good 110v welder like a Millermatic 140 should work just fine.

uhh yeah, no. even if you got everything perfect and made a solid multipass weld the duty cycle at full tilt would take you about 3 weeks to finish.
 
i won't use a 110v machine for anything more the sheet metal or patio furniture.

i think our whole shop is wired 600v.
 
i haven't had a chance to start much, we are crazy busy at work. and i have been too busy having fun with any free time i have.
:banana:
 
Mr. Cruiser nerd, I have been around since the first spring flops were done locally by Earl Warden Auto Repair in Placerville, Calif. I have seen a couple knuckle balls crack the bottom of the weld on the Rubicon trail, noticed by gear oil seeping through the weld. I have fixed some on the trail with my on board stick welder. But To answer your question. Stick works, but much cleaner to use a 220 mig set-up! My brother in law (certified welder) and have set up many spring over front ends. We weld on a jig, after tacked, 4 stitches complete the circumference. Never broke. This info applies to FJ40/45 Land Cruisers only! It's not appropriate to spring over a FJ25. Love to stay and chat but---off to the Rubicon trail again, John Pardi
 
Mr. Cruiser nerd, I have been around since the first spring flops were done locally by Earl Warden Auto Repair in Placerville, Calif. I have seen a couple knuckle balls crack the bottom of the weld on the Rubicon trail, noticed by gear oil seeping through the weld. I have fixed some on the trail with my on board stick welder. But To answer your question. Stick works, but much cleaner to use a 220 mig set-up! My brother in law (certified welder) and have set up many spring over front ends. We weld on a jig, after tacked, 4 stitches complete the circumference. Never broke. This info applies to FJ40/45 Land Cruisers only! It's not appropriate to spring over a FJ25. Love to stay and chat but---off to the Rubicon trail again, John Pardi

John,

I'll bet he used a Miller mig welder.. ;-)

Charles
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom