Messed with fuses, now alternator is failing/battery keeps failing (1 Viewer)

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Feb 6, 2018
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Santa Fe, NM
Hi All, 2011 LX570. Short version is my battery is currently dead dead. I can jump it, but when i take the battery pack off, it dies shortly thereafter. I feel like all the symptoms are that of a failing alternator, but the symptoms of an alternator issue coincided with me trying to tap into a fuse with a cigarette lighter plug using an automotive fuse tap. Is this a coincidence?

The more detailed version of how i got here: A few weeks ago, I bought one of those road top screens to add carplay to the LC. Ran it for a few days, happy with it. I wanted to wire it like a few other users I had seen using a fuse tap and a 12v cigarette lighter, so i watched some videos and gave it a shot. First fuse I tapped was on the passenger side, number 5 labeled Door DL - No circuit. Wired it all up, screen worked fine, everything seemed kosher, but then it stayed running once I turned the car off. So, i decided to tap a different one instead, tried the 16-multi display, and got nothing. I tried tapping one or two others but at this point i was pretty sure i had blown my plug somehow cause the tap/plug combo would no longer power on. I gave up, buttoned it all back up, and got my first battery light on the dash that night. I just figured it was from me running the screen with the car off, turning the car on/off a bunch, working in the car with the interior lights on, etc. I thought nothing of it and went to bed.

The next day I took the car in and dropped it off to get detailed - battery light was on on the dash again, but i just figured it just needed to be driven. It was off by the time I got to the shop. When I went to pick it up, the battery was dead again, but the detailers told me they had been running the ac without the ignition. We jumped it, it died when we took the cables off. We jumped it again and left them on longer. One of the mechanics came over to see what was going on, told me my battery was weak and needed to be replaced. No big deal, went to napa and picked up a new battery and swapped it in. Everything seemed ok.

The next day i went on a 2 hour ish highway venture to pick up family from the airport. Battery light came back on the dash about an hour in. Car made it back home on the highway but the battery meter was definitely dipping. It seemed to come up a bit closer to 14v when i was running the truck hard in the higher rpm range, but then would dip down when i was coasting, in town, stop and go. We made it home, I called my local LC mechanic, and I am dropping it with him on Tuesday.

Tried to start the truck this morning and the battery is really dead. Jumped it and got it started but the battery meter is hovering around 10v and dipping really low. Truck wont stay started once I remove the battery pack cables.

I feel like all the signs here are pointing to a failed alternator. Am I being paranoid thinking that possibly something I did messing with the fusebox could have caused this? I bought a basic fuse tester and all the fuses I tried look to be intact and working. Anyone had a similar experience?
 
How many miles? Alternator definitely sounds likely. I think the fuse tap is just coincidence
 
It's not uncommon to need an alternator replacement at around that mileage.

 
Sounds like a classic three-lock-box scenario to me. Non-ignition switched screen install over-discharges the battery -> battery plates sulfate and won't hold charge -> marginal alternator trying to charge failed battery *and* supply running amperage fails.

If correct, yeah it's kind of on you, but the delicate equilibrium beforehand was going to topple regardless.

Don't be surprised if the new battery is now also toast. Get it tested after replacing the alternator. SLA batteries might have only a couple deep discharges in them. AGM a few more.

<Edit> And BTW the screen not working on other fuse taps was likely that by that time the min. threshold voltage for the screen was exceeded with your depleted battery -- which just happens to be a higher value than the Toyota battery warning threshold.
 
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Sounds like a classic three-lock-box scenario to me. Non-ignition switched screen install over-discharges the battery -> battery plates sulfate and won't hold charge -> marginal alternator trying to charge failed battery *and* supply running amperage fails.

If correct, yeah it's kind of on you, but the delicate equilibrium beforehand was going to topple regardless.

Don't be surprised if the new battery is now also toast. Get it tested after replacing the alternator. SLA batteries might have only a couple deep discharges in them. AGM a few more.

<Edit> And BTW the screen not working on other fuse taps was likely that by that time the min. threshold voltage for the screen was exceeded with your depleted battery -- which just happens to be a higher value than the Toyota battery warning threshold.
Damn… thank you so much for this. This makes sense to me and explains a lot. Had to google what SLA and AGM were! Love this community.

Truck is going to the shop tomorrow, likely to get the alternator replaced, then get my new (possibly toasted) battery tested. In the meantime im going to read some threads on everyones fav 200 batts, and how to not tap the wrong fuse. Thanks again.
 
“WIPERS” in the drivers kick panel is ACC-switched. Otherwise Teckis300 has a thread about a switched fuse location under the hood. I never checked the passenger side for a switched fuse. If you find something let us know.
Thank you! Will give this a shot once new alternator is in.
 

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