Builds Merl the Pearl Build (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Ecliff5
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My man Ethan showed up in AZ. Good GTFO of NY!! 
Ecliff5
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- #103
Since the road trip I haven’t done too much tinkering on Merl. Few things here and there. I swapped out the AVM hubs for AISIN, I chose the angle grinder method for the snap ring groove. I sold my ARB bumper and went back to oem for now until my new dissent front bumper comes in. Went with their new extreme high clearance which cuts the front frame rails. I also installed some Dobinsons 6” IMS shocks in the front. With my current coil set up the shock is sitting at 6” up and 6” down. Need to pull the coils and figure out bumpstops and cutting for the 37s. Other then that, she’s leaking oil like crazy so I need to get the new engine swapped in sooner than later.
Cool dog !
Ecliff5
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- #106
Added some 1” front bumpstop spacers and found a spot to flex out the new front dobi shocks. Need to get the matching rears, the fox shocks are about maxed out on down travel, had about .5” to the rear bumpstop when the tire started getting into the rear of the fender. The front still had about 2” of up travel when the tire started getting into the front part of the fender. The front had some more down travel left in it. Need to start trimming and flex it out again. Then actually go wheeling 
Ecliff5
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- #110
Picked up some goodies. Slowly building motivation for an engine swap. Going to pull the valve cover and check valve clearances. Engine has 12k miles on it, new short block, head, valves, springs and cams but kept the same buckets. It always had a slight valve tap which was annoying and the machine shop that built the head is down the street from me so I’m going to borrow some tools from him and if needed order new shims for the buckets.
Nice, Ethan. 
Ecliff5
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- #112
Pulled the valve cover and checked clearances with the crappy feeler gauges I had. Didn’t have smaller than 8 thou so need to check with better tools from the machine shop. It looks super clean in there as it should for 12k miles. Most of the clearances check out in spec but some on the tight and loose ends of the scale. I had 3 intake valves that didn’t fit an 8 so they are probably 6 thou. @OGBeno what’s your thoughts?
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Get a better set of feeler gauges so you aren't guessing.
Remove and measure the shims on the tightest, and widest clearance valves.
With the correct tools you can remove shims fairly easily.
You may be able to shift shims around to correct the clearances.
There's a chart in the 1fz-fe FSM to help calculate what shim thickness you need using existing shim thickness, and the measured clearance.
if swapping them around doesn't bring you back within spec, order the correct thickness from Toyota. Shims don't cost a lot, and there's a range of thicknesses.
Shims will have thickness etched/ printed on them.
If they were new 12k ago, you should be able to trust that figure. if they are worn, you need to measure thickness.
Ecliff5
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- #114
Yeah I am going to grab some tools from the machine shop on Monday and recheck. The only thing I reused in the head were the buckets and shims, I had a mix of 48 shims from two heads I had. When he built the head I gave him all 48 and he said he got them all within spec but there’s always been a slight valve tap. He’s down the street from me and going to help me out maybe even make a home visit.
Ecliff5
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- #115
Borrowed some tools from the machine shop and got some numbers. No wonder I had a valve tap, the first three intake valves are out of spec by a long shot. The lifter bucket pusher down tools he gave me didn’t work so going to call him tomorrow and see if can help me out without having to bring the entire engine to him. Anyone have the 1fz SST for the buckets laying around?
Ecliff5
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- #116
Discovered a weird leak from the engine sitting on the stand. Been sitting on the stand for over a year and when I tilted the engine on the stand to turn the crank and left it slightly tilted for a few days, the oil level sensor started leaking from the pins of the sensor? When I pulled the engine the plug was not plugged in, thought it was because the plastic was broken but now thinking this is why it was not plugged it. I plugged it in after I pulled it and it was on the stand. Come out yesterday and find oil dripping out of it. I cleaned it all up and this is how much oil leaked overnight. Going to either buy a new one or steal it off of Merls engine when I do the swap. Weird leak through the pins, anyone seen this before? Seems to only leak when the plug is connected, the pins are loose and when I wiggle them I can see oil start seeping through.
Ecliff5
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- #117
@OGBeno hooked it up with the SST for valve adjustments. I got a mitutoyo digital micrometer and after some learning curves I kinda knew what I was doing. I was able to swap two shims around, got 2 valves back in spec and put two others slightly out so instead of trying to do more swaps I pulled the suspect shims, measured them and referred to the FSM formula and chart to double check my math. Figured out which new shims are needed and got them ordered up from my local Toyota parts guy.
Ecliff5
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- #118
I ordered up some new manifolds and figured I would give Cerakote a try. Dropped them off at a local gun shop that is a certified cerakote supplier. I went with a glacier forge color, good for 1800 degrees. Hoping to get those back in a week or two and then get these new valve shims installed and get this engine swap underway.
Ecliff5
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- #120
Valve shims came in and I got them all swapped over today. Swapped 6 shims, 4 intake and 2 exhaust and everything is in spec and looking good now. Got her buttoned up with a fresh valve cover gasket, valve cover bolts and started putting on the new heater hoses and clamps. Also swapped the dipstick o-ring and oil level gasket and no more leaks, probably would still leak out of the pin of the sensor though so leaving it unplugged for now.
