McMaster Carr part#'s - hood/hatch struts and nuts (1 Viewer)

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I went with hatch struts from Lift Support Depot. $21 a piece for hatch but with all the hardware preassembled it was 4 bolts a side to R&R the struts. Hood struts are $17 a piece again with all the hardware pre-assembled. All in its about $10 bucks more than the McMaster Carr route but it's a bolt in solution, makes it a 10 minute job. Great customer service.

http://www.autopartsbylou.com/lift-...del=Land+Cruiser&year=1995&type=mmy&x=19&y=15
 
That's not bad. And you're right, $52.41 shipped vs. $43.76 shipped from McMaster. All of my prior searches came up with $70+

Thanks for the link :beer:
 
McMasters installed, exact same items ordered via another thread I found a few weeks back ($38.23 for me - shipped) but ironically/coincidentally same struts. A few notes, my humble $.02:
  1. They rock! Very happy with the 90# - since I installed my Gobi ladder (which adds weight to the hatch), my OEM struts weren't up to the task and the extra "oomph" here is great!
  2. The extra lift - I'm neutral. I'd already adjusted the hatch brackets to give a tiny-bit extra clearance to accommodate the ladder bracket (which rubbed)....it's noticeably higher than stock and besides my wife being too short to pull down now, I don't really have anything to offer. It is what it is....
  3. If Lift Support Depot units have matching brackets with stock/OEM then go with those. Reaming out old press fit knuckles, hack-sawing down bolt length, finding "skinny" enough nuts at your local hardware store, etc., etc., etc.....while not a 3-banana installation, it's still time-consuming and requires some "more than expected" elbow grease to get these babies installed.
  4. Either one of these options KILLS OEM prices......works great and if you even think you need replacements, replacements will make you smile WIDE.
Have a good weekend....
 
Just wanted to add an update to this thread as the jam nuts part number didn't work anymore (unless I screwed it up). This is the part number for the same 5/16"-18 316 SS jam nut. 94805A110
 
Is it bad to use the ones on amazon? They bolt right in and come pre assembled and all the hardware.
 
Is it bad to use the ones on amazon? They bolt right in and come pre assembled and all the hardware.

No it is not bad...it's good. It's a prop strut, it will be fine.
 
$83 shipped for all four and a pack of jam nuts.
 
I installed the McMaster hood struts this weekend. They are longer than the stock hood struts. It took me a while to figure out that the brackets that attach them to the inside of the fender need to be rotated by drilling new guide holes for the pins on the bracket. The McMaster struts seem to be a lot better than the crap strong arm ones I had before that only lasted a couple years.
 
I installed the McMaster hood struts this weekend. They are longer than the stock hood struts. It took me a while to figure out that the brackets that attach them to the inside of the fender need to be rotated by drilling new guide holes for the pins on the bracket. The McMaster struts seem to be a lot better than the crap strong arm ones I had before that only lasted a couple years.

Do you have a picture of the drilled new guide holes for the hood struts? I am expecting both hood and liftgate struts to arrive today (already replaced OEM liftgate with McMaster Carr struts years ago but they have started to sag a bit).

Thanks!

Riley
 
Do you have a picture of the drilled new guide holes for the hood struts? I am expecting both hood and liftgate struts to arrive today (already replaced OEM liftgate with McMaster Carr struts years ago but they have started to sag a bit).

Thanks!

Riley


You just drill the pins out and use the brackets, the ball threads into the stock hole
 
I opted to maintain the factory geometry as best I could, so did not utilize the "cut off extra threads" method, and instead used a nut to space them to the same depth as the OEM.

Use a 5/16" metal bit to drill out the back of the pins, then bore the hole with the same 5/16" bit to fit the new struts. I didn't take pictures of that (I remembered too late), but that part is fairly simple.

I would engage a helper to help hold up the hood and liftgate, as they both need to extend past their factory positions to install the second bracket on each. Also note, the threads in the hood and the struts don't match perfectly, so you will "strip" them to get them in. It's close enough, but don't expect to turn it by hand.

My lift gate raises about 2 additional inches, which is nice for the headroom, and my hood now maxes out the stops. Both open fast and are much harder to close than the 23 year old struts they replaced.

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I just want to state for the record - I installed the McMaster struts on my hood and lift gate in early 2013.

The lift gate struts are still kicking ass and keeping the lift gate well above my head (I'm tall).

The hood struts disappointed me today and need replacing.
 
I went with 2 vendors for mine last year; My hood would not stay up without a piece of lumber, and the rear hatch would stay open only after a series of open/close with a "hold" open for like 10 seconds but it would start to droop after a few minutes again.
Anyway.
All 4 of mine are the "Strongarm" brand
I ended up getting the hood ones from Rock auto (1 side was on closeout, so the pair was under $30 bucks.
The rear hatch ones I got at Amazon. Same price or within a dollar of Liftsupport depot at the time, but we have prime, and needed some other crap anyway.
Strongarm rear hatch are #6781L-R
Strongarm hood are 4551L-R
Mine all bolted right in, all I did was remove the OEM ball studs, and install the ball studs supplied with the struts. All of them said "made in the USA" on them as well if that is important to you.
Obviously time will tell if these end up being a 10 year part, or a 1 year part.
Cheers
 
12 years later and this thread still delivers
2- 4138T579 struts for the rear hatch
1- 91847A030 SS this Hex Nuts 5/16"-18 (pack of 100)
Indeed raises it by 2" but I'm ok with it since I have a ladder and diesel rotopax hanging on it
 
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