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Is the neutral safety switch throwing a code or do you literally just not need it to start out of park for inspections? The latter would be extremely simple to remedy.
 
Shouldn't need seafoam to pass emissions if you have good cats....

Something sounds wrong.

It was throwing a code for a vacuum leak, I assume it's the Intake gasket leak?
 
Is the neutral safety switch throwing a code or do you literally just not need it to start out of park for inspections? The latter would be extremely simple to remedy.

It's the latter. I'd love an extremely simple remedy :D
 
Wire the switch in your shifter into your "start wire" so only when in park and the key is turned to crank it will turn over. If that makes sense. Pretty much use it like you would a anti theft switch but run it to the wire that only has power when you are attempting to crank the engine (the wire running to the starter solenoid). This way the starter can only crank when you are in park. This function does not need power when in any other gear so it should work perfectly. I didn't see what shifter you have but they all typically have a switch that is engaged in park. I don't know how you have the ignition wired at the moment but I would use a relay as well.
 
We kept the stock shifter, Tom did a slick job mating them up. Apparently the start wire is not in the shifter, just wires for the indicator lights, so unfortunately we can't go that route. So close!
 
The toyota harness and ecm is still in place...are you sure thay have it in nuetral and not in reverse... remember we used the toyota shifter and the pattern is very close. It may say on the indicator that you are in reverse but you may actually be in nuetral. When I get back we'll figure it out. should be there by the 20th - 28th
The cats are brand new too.
Did you ever get the state seal of approval? I know that they give you a free pass if this process is completed. They may be failing you due to running the inspection specs for a chevy 5.3 and not a chevy 5.3 in a toyota. Remember we are only running two pre cat O2 sensors instead of the four O2 sensors that come stock on the chevy.
Im sure that shop[ isnt cheap either....

Did you bring it to the same shop we brought your fj40 too?
I'll be home soon.
 
Like Kurtis stated...
Worse case scenario.....When I get back I'll rig up a kill switch to the shifter off the ignition. This will allow the rig to only start in Park.
Keep cool....Im almost home
 
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It will be great to have you back Tom! And not just for the tech know-how, honest...

If they can't figure it out by tomorrow I'll just pull it out of the shop and wait for you to get back. It will be great to get the beast on the road.
 
i love the idea of doing this swap but all the stuff money that goes into it is another. i really like the way this one has been done. ive read through almost all of the chevy swaps on this site and it just fuels my hunger for one in my 62. how much money have you spent on this particular swap? i really want to visit that yard full of cruisers. my whole family thinks im crazy about lancruisers, maybe i am. next to come is a 40 :grinpimp: if you guys ever stop through st.george give me a shout out. id love to cruise with some fellow ih8mudders. :cheers:
 
i love the idea of doing this swap but all the stuff money that goes into it is another. i really like the way this one has been done. ive read through almost all of the chevy swaps on this site and it just fuels my hunger for one in my 62. how much money have you spent on this particular swap? i really want to visit that yard full of cruisers. my whole family thinks im crazy about lancruisers, maybe i am. next to come is a 40 :grinpimp: if you guys ever stop through st.george give me a shout out. id love to cruise with some fellow ih8mudders. :cheers:

I'll be heading to st. george on the weekend of October 13th My wife and I are driving our 40 down. We plan on a little road trip and some golf too. This project has been a fun one. I also have done a couple others too. I'd be happy to discuss a build with you when we come down that way next month. Keep in touch and I'll remind you when we head that way as well.
You are always welcome to swing by the shop (barn) at anytime your up in the Park City area. we always welcome fellow mudders and anyone else that is so inclined.:cheers:
 
I swapped out the alternator yesterday, it's pretty easy on these Vortecs, everything is up front and accessible. Just disconnect the wires, two bolts, put some pressure on the tension pulley and you're done. It tested with a bad voltage regulator. Took it back and exchanged it (good thing, they accidentally gave us a one year warranty unit instead of a life-time unit, so I got that straightened out) and I wanted to bench test it. Their machine was down but he said, "I guarantee you it will work." I drove it around and then put the volt meter on it and it tested putting out 14v, great. Then last night I took it on a long drive and the gauge was reading a bit low. I took it to O'Reilly to have it tested and it was only putting out 13.02 volts. I know this is technically okay but it's kind of borderline, isn't it supposed to be above 13.2? Time for another unit? I think this is the 105v alt, is that not enough power to work with our older electrical systems and this new drivetrain?
 
I think this is the 105v alt, is that not enough power to work with our older electrical systems and this new drivetrain?

Do you mean 105 amp? Check the alternator to see what amps it puts out over a range of RPMs. I got one that was only putting out 40 amps at 2000 RPMs, but it was rated at 65 amps. As I'm putting a 4bt and it's sweet spot is 1700 RPMs, that alt wasn't going to work for me.

Also, i had a Tahoe a while back that had to have a very specific amp (102.5 I think). I went through 4 alternators until the Chevy garage put the right one in.

Just a thought.
 
Gotta love lifetime warranties...run it till it dies!
Wyoming may be on to something here with having the specific amp rating.
Also keep in mind of the rebuilt units that we are getting from auto stores.... remember the one we put in your 40?? It took 3 before we got one that lasted.

Hope all is well...see you soon buddy!
 
Happy New Year Update: the walbro external fuel pump has been giving us grief. Apparently their quality has been spotty lately, we're on the second pump and it's been whining like a 2nd grader who lost his ball to the mean dog next door. John B. at Proffitts said they have had similar problems and have been running internal 62 fuel pumps on some of their conversions. He said it seems like the pressure would be too low but it works, so that is our next step. I want to run one of those boat hatches Waggoner installed in the cargo area of his 62/80/100 in the hardcore section.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8170676&postcount=552

It's really close, we just need to replace that internal gasket so it will start when it's cold (it does start with the throttle out and then warms up, but I haven't tried it n this cold weather yet), get adapters for the temp and speedometer, figure out if there is a power drain, hook up the a/c, and we should be in great shape.
 
Looks like there is a power drain after all, I put a new battery in and it was completely drained after a couple of days (this is the 3rd battery it's drained so it's got to be in the system and not a battery problem). Tangentially related, I rediscovered my first love! She's pretty rough, not the way I left her 12 years ago. I thought she had rusted away or been parted out but she has been used (and abused) by a nice family. I'm tempted to get her back again but she's in way rougher shape than when I left (or found) her. When I told my wife it was for sale she even said "go rescue our baby!" How can I refuse that? But it's a huge project, and I've been knee-deep in non-functioning cruisers for quite some time and don't know if I can take on another project, especially now that it's got some big rust issues.
fj55.webp
 
Happy New Year Update: the walbro external fuel pump has been giving us grief. Apparently their quality has been spotty lately, we're on the second pump and it's been whining like a 2nd grader who lost his ball to the mean dog next door. John B. at Proffitts said they have had similar problems and have been running internal 62 fuel pumps on some of their conversions. He said it seems like the pressure would be too low but it works, so that is our next step..

I believe it has more to do with the pump output volume than pressure .. really.

I think many pumps will maintain 50+ PSI, but IIRC the vortec calls for over 250 litre/hour which is high flow. this should be kept in mind when searching for a pump.

Look at aeromotive products, delphi, bosch, etc. All make solid pumps.
 
Lots of updates, the cruiser's doing great. Alaska60 put the original 62 tank and fuel pump back in at the suggestion of John B. at Proffitts. You'd think it wouldn't have the horsepower to keep the fuel pressure up but so far so good, it's been working like a charm and no more blown Walbro pumps. I'll post pics, but rear quarter sliders are awesome. Tach is hooked up and speedo (although off by 10%) because of the 60 transfer case and cheby transmission--that's probably good, this thing is fast! I've blown a disc out in my back so am down for the count but am going to Cruise Moab to give her a rundown on some bunny trails. The Cruiser Barn did an awesome job on this rig!
 
Took Bullwinkle to Cruise Moab, wow! I destroyed a disc in my back so wasn't able to hit any serious trails, but the crusier did great! We did a lot of exploring and some long trails in the desert like Onion Creek and Chicken Corners. The cruiser did great with the conversion, no over-heating and she ran cool the whole time. The stock fuel pump seems perfect. I put it under a lot of pressure to test it out. She ran up Soldier's Summit (a LOOOONG uphill climb) at 80mph no problem, with room to accelerate. We averaged 70-75mph most of the trip and still got close to 16 mpg loaded down with gear and 4 people. I cannot tell you how amazing it is to hit a mountain going 75 uphill and still be able to accelerate, it's almost blasphemous.

Here is a question from Club5000 I am re-posting here for Alaska60:
I am doing a swap and have read your thread and many others. I am in the process of putting a 5.3l in my 1988 fj62 and have gotten to the fuel system. I read that you have put the original fuel system back in with no problems so far. Can you educate me on how that was integrated with the vortec? Did you use a filter from the 2001 corvette with the regulator and return line built in or did your engine have the pressure regulator built in? Did you use the factory fuel lines? I appreciate any help and/or pictures.
 

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