Builds Max Powerzz gets Max Power, or Watch Me Pull a Rabbit out of my Hat!

[dbleon]

FYI... to get the DBW pedal to fit you must cut/shorten the metal arm. Very simple...

 

[alaska60]

Lots of great advice here from everyone...
However, the issue with the cold start is the intake manifold gasket with a tiny leak. It leaks when its cold and once the vehicle or engine warms up, the gasket seals itself up. Thats why it fires up when you barely touch the key when its warm. Ive seen this before and new about the issue back in july.....Everyone seems to forget that. Ill be home soon and we'll take care of it, if one of my buddies doesnt get to it first.
Thanks everyone.
I do believe other than that, it runs like a champ ...no?

 

[alaska60]

Hmm.. interesting it starts with the hand throttle... what year is the motor? Does it have the matching ECU? Who did the programming? Fuel pressure could be slowly losing enough pressure (over hours during cool down) to cause the no start condition. Still I cant wrap my head around the hand throttle. You may want to get the chevy FSM and test the TPS per the guidelines. Do the rpms seem to wander at all (at steady speed on road)?

check fuel pressure with gauge upon cold start....

its an 05' with a 03' cable drive throttle body hooked to the fj62 stock throttle cable.
The ECU was reflased to specs by Howell harness out of Michigan. Great guys and have used them several times before.
RPM's are super steady with no wandering too.

Its the intake gasket for sure...I bet my house on it.

 

[Max.Powerzz]

I went to fire it up to get it inspected and the battery is dead. My other relatively new battery was dead in the cruiser last week so Jake replaced it and now this one is dead too. However, it was a back up battery so it could just be bad luck, we went through several alternators on the fj40 before getting a good one. I trickle charged it last night so hopefully it's just a case of bad batteries. I'll take it to O Reilly to get it tested and see whats going on. it will be good to have you back Tom!

 

[dbleon]

How is your charging system wired. You should not have to modify the alternator in any way for the 5.3 swap. Alternator should have one cable to battery (after chevy fusible link (thin wire)) then just run power to fuse box, and Toyo fusible link. Nothing else required for charging.

Check grounds...

 

[alaska60]

How is your charging system wired. You should not have to modify the alternator in any way for the 5.3 swap. Alternator should have one cable to battery (after chevy fusible link (thin wire)) then just run power to fuse box, and Toyo fusible link. Nothing else required for charging.

Check grounds...

I know its wired correctly just as you explained above. This is not my first one either. I have had no hiccups with any other swaps so far. not sure why the battery died seeing as though it has not died for 3 solid months of running....wierd.

 

[dbleon]

hmmm... ya weird...

 

[Max.Powerzz]

Got it tested and the battery is good but the alt is only putting out 13 volts. It failed the reader and said it was the internal voltage regulator. It also failed emissions, but just barely. The check engine light came on and threw a code for a vacuum leak. They didn't hassle me on the the wide tires or no mud flaps this time, but they dinged me on a neutral start sensor???? Who checks for that? They found out it can start in N or R so that's next on the list. Once it passes safety and emissions we can get the engine certified and get some plates on there. Today at the DMV when I was getting paperwork a cop parked right by me as I was walking in. I beat it back quickly and he let my expired plates slide since I had the emissions paperwork in hand. What's the luck?

Edit: on a side note this guy totally stalked me to a parking spot today. He was pretty excited about the cruiser and asked if he could take some pics, he loved the bumper and sliders. His brother just bought a rust-free cruiser from AZ, pretty cool. You've got another fan Tom

 

[muddogbob]

Not to hijack your thread, but I'm working on a 6.0/4l80e swap into my fj62 and am trying to figure out the starter wiring. My GM harness has been modified, and has a purple 12-gauge wire that says 'To Starter'. I'm not sure how this is any different than the full time +B wire in the harness. Also, how did you go about wiring from your ignition to the starter solenoid? Did you use an ignition relay?


Thanks!
Bob

 

[alaska60]

Not to hijack your thread, but I'm working on a 6.0/4l80e swap into my fj62 and am trying to figure out the starter wiring. My GM harness has been modified, and has a purple 12-gauge wire that says 'To Starter'. I'm not sure how this is any different than the full time +B wire in the harness. Also, how did you go about wiring from your ignition to the starter solenoid? Did you use an ignition relay?


Thanks!
Bob

No relay. You can use the toyota wires bro...
Just keep all your starter wires in tact from the 62 and use them from the key to the starter and the battery.

 

[muddogbob]

No relay. You can use the toyota wires bro...
Just keep all your starter wires in tact from the 62 and use them from the key to the starter and the battery.

Intradasting. Thanks I'll give it a shot. Did you just bypass the neutral start safety switch?

 

[alaska60]

Intradasting. Thanks I'll give it a shot. Did you just bypass the neutral start safety switch?

I had our harness built and the computer reflashed by Howell Harness out of Michigan. They built and reflashed to spects for this application. The NSS can be bypassed however, I believe you will need to splice two wires at the NSS switch at the tranny. The purple with a white stripe and the dark green wire need to be joined for the bypass. you can also adjust the NSS at the tranny. Loosen it up and rotate in small incriments with a buddy turning the key until it starts.
can anyone else validate my idea here? I believe I'm correct.

 

[alaska60]

Also ...
what type of shifting linkage are you using?

 

[Max.Powerzz]

you can also adjust the NSS at the tranny. Loosen it up and rotate in small incriments with a buddy turning the key until it starts.
can anyone else validate my idea here? I believe I'm correct.

Does this mean the opposite will work on our configuration? It is currently starting in Neutral but the shop won't pass it for safety until we get the neutral start safety functional.

 

[dbleon]

Not to hijack your thread, but I'm working on a 6.0/4l80e swap into my fj62 and am trying to figure out the starter wiring. My GM harness has been modified, and has a purple 12-gauge wire that says 'To Starter'. I'm not sure how this is any different than the full time +B wire in the harness. Also, how did you go about wiring from your ignition to the starter solenoid? Did you use an ignition relay?


Thanks!
Bob

Here's a (simplified) step by step hook up:

1. OE Toyo fusible link >>> directly to + battery source (best is directly to batt. terminal)
2. OE Toyo starter wire (12 ga wire black with white stripe - went to toyo starter solenoid.)>>> directly to gm starter solenoid.
3. OE Toyo ignition wire (larger of the wires that went to distributor coil/ignitor, black with yellow stripe IIRC) >>> feeds run/start to the aftermarket GM fuse panel (this should give 12v+ to fuel pump relay, PCM, etc)

That should get your motor turning over via key ignition.

___________________________

A little explanation:

Starter and ignition circuits are protected in the (OE) Toyo side harness (assuming stock Toyota wiring is in place).

Run original Toyo starter wire directly to GM starter solenoid.

Ignition source will come from the larger gauge wire (black with yellow stripe IIRC) from the old Toyo distributor ignitior/coil. This should FEED run/start TO your fuse panel. The (OE) Toyo fusible link will power ignition, starter, and all other Toyo electical components. Fusible link should be hooked directly to + battery. Ignition wire does not directly feed starter. hope that makes sense.

Its hard to guide you since I dont know what your working with, but the general idea is all the same. I would ignore the labeling on the aftermarket harness, and just reverse engineer it to see what you really need.
check out >>

http://www.lt1swap.com/wiringharness.htm

... best info on GM wiring on the net.

P.S Get ahold of and study the wiring diagrams.. the toyo stuff is stupid simple, the GM.... a little more complicated

Hope that helps you. Cheers

 

[dbleon]

Intradasting. Thanks I'll give it a shot. Did you just bypass the neutral start safety switch?

Bob, I think you are referring to the Toyota NSSS, correct? Yes do need to bypass this.. I think a simple jump wire with fuse should work, or just cut and cap. I didn't do this on my 60 though maybe the PO clipped it.

 

[muddogbob]

Bob, I think you are referring to the Toyota NSSS, correct? Yes do need to bypass this.. I think a simple jump wire with fuse should work, or just cut and cap. I didn't do this on my 60 though maybe the PO clipped it.

Just finished bypassing it tonight. Also wired in the reverse lights to the GM harness. Pretty sure the 60 series is built into the clutch, where the 62 is a sensor in the transmission.

 

[alaska60]

Does this mean the opposite will work on our configuration? It is currently starting in Neutral but the shop won't pass it for safety until we get the neutral start safety functional.

Not sure.. I have to see where we left off there . Its been a couple months and cant recall what I did under there.
Regardless, I have no worries about getting it together upon my return. sorry for the delay.
Not much longer.

 

[Max.Powerzz]

Finally passed emissions with a bottle of sea foam. We just can't get the neutral safety switch thing figured out. It's been at the shop for nearly 3 weeks, they can't figure out what to do. Apparently there isn't a plug for It in the Howell harness, any tips on how to wire this thing in?

 

[dbleon]

Shouldn't need seafoam to pass emissions if you have good cats....

Something sounds wrong.