Marvel Mystery (Snake?) Oil additive and so on....an interesting story (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Dec 28, 2005
Threads
86
Messages
444
So as I wrote in a previous post I had on my tired 2F some strange knocking appear, disappear, reappear...

A couple of months ago it happened again in front of a O'Reilly's auto-parts store.

A farmer just came in the lot and heard the knock. He approached me and suggested I use Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO). He has been using it on his equipment, diesel and all and it had done wonders. All the way back to his grandfather they had with success used it, he claimed. He swore by it.

I asked him if he's a stockholder or MMO sales person, he laughed. I explained him my reservations about all things "additives" and how my Dad used to say "They all work.... ...in creating revenue for the seller.."

But this guy claimed this stuff does work suggesting to give it a try. What you have to loose at the cost of a beer or two in a pub?

True.

So I changed the oil and replaced as per MMO label 20% with their stuff.

And I drove.
Surprisingly, my old chattering engine gradually started to run a little smoother and quieter. those random hard knocks didn't come back and she definitely got stronger.

3,000 miles later I did an oil change. Out came everything less actual engine parts. The oil had a strange shimmer to it when stirred (see pic). At the end emptying the drain collection pan came little black chunks up ti 1/8" in size.

I suspended a strong little neodymium (rare earth) magnet on the oil surface but whatever was suspended in the oil appeared to be not magnetic (iron). (Good....!)

Those little black chunks where kind of hard but you could squish them and rub then to some black smear. (Dump pan closeup pic)

So I wonder, does it really work? Is this all the muck and carbon getting dislodged and washed out?

I'm fresh with 80% oil, 20% MMOl and a filter and so far I' added 500 miles since the oil change and must say she runs really well, stronger and relatively quieter than ever (Doesn't like to be rev'd over 3,000) considering age and all.

Hmmm?

Marvel Mystery? Maybe well so. It seems to do something good!

IMG_3602crp.jpg


IMG_3608.jpg


IMG_3614.jpg


IMG_3616.jpg


IMG_3631[1]crp.jpg
 
Last edited:
The only bad I've herd from MMO users is when all those little deposits got lodged in orifices and caused issues, typically really old and poor maintenance . otherwise YES all good reports.
 
that looks a bit like it has aluminum in it....

t
 
that looks a bit like it has aluminum in it....

t

I thought the same thing. It is possible that it's normal wear and would show up in "pure" oil for him too though.

Either way, MMO does do something. Dan Stern (yes, the lighting guy) uses a concoction of MMO, Kroil, ATF and Berryman's B-12 for cleaning old gunk and crap out of engines that've been poorly maintained and have a nasty buildup. Drain oil, fill with "soup" and new filter, run above idle for a certain amount of time (can't remember how long), drain, repeat as necessary. When I first got my old Duster I flushed the "soup" through twice one day and a TON of sludge came out when I drained it. It was like I gave the engine a high colonic. Full synthetic since then and it always came out clean on changes afterward. Luckily there were no leaks to be revealed by cleaning the engine in my case. Anyway, my point is that there is definitely something to MMO for it to get the results it does.

One different thing that made my engine a ton smoother recently and woke it up quite a bit was filling up with ethanol free fuel instead of the scam gas that 95% of the gas stations here sell. Haven't calculated an average mileage since then because I don't drive it often (gas prices, long commutes, and a sedan that gets much better fuel economy), but I wouldn't be surprised if I gained a mile or two out of that change alone.

Tangent off. Got a case of attention deficit SQUIRREL! there for a few :D
 
One different thing that made my engine a ton smoother recently and woke it up quite a bit was filling up with ethanol free fuel instead of the scam gas that 95% of the gas stations here sell. Haven't calculated an average mileage since then because I don't drive it often (gas prices, long commutes, and a sedan that gets much better fuel economy), but I wouldn't be surprised if I gained a mile or two out of that change alone.

I do the same - I can only find 92 octane in non-ethanol, which is what I usually run in my chainsaw, weedeater, and other small engines, but I have been ponying up and running the same in my 60 series. All stock 2F with smog equipment, 95k miles and on 31x10.5x15 I get about 1 MPG increase in economy so right in the mid 15's per gallon, but more importantly I don't have that ethanol crap in my gas tank. If the rig was a daily driver I might have more of a problem rationalizing the increased cost (about $4.50 a gallon give or take) but for a weekend mountain play rig, I'll get over it.
 
I have used it for decades in various types of internal combustion engines - typically larger stuff - not outboards or mowers, etc. I consistently get better mileage than advertised, better longevity than average and fewer mechanical issues. I have no idea what's in that stuff, or why it smells like peppermint, but I'm convinced that it works. I grew up working a dairy farm and the farmer used it in his trucks and tractors. He swore by it, as did his father before him, also a dairy farmer. Can I prove it works? No. But I order it by the case.
 
I have no idea what's in that stuff, or why it smells like peppermint, ...

According to BITOG, this is the composition:

"70% Light Aromatic Oil (Pale Oil)
- It is a Naphthenic Oil, so while it oxidizes faster than a Paraffinic oil, it does clean and dissolve sludge and carbon well and cleans up after itself from any oxidation. serves as base oil as well. [Naphthenic oils have more solvency and are more polar (they are attracted to metal more), but oxidize faster.

29% Mineral Spirits
- Cleans Varnish very well. General cleaner. Also acts as an antioxidant.

38 parts per million (ppm) Boron
- AW/EP agent, friction reducer, antioxidant

900 ppm Phosporous
- AW/EP agent

1/2% 1, 2 ortho-Dichlorobenzene
- EP agent as it interacts with Iron to form an Iron chloride barrier under any ZDDP or other AW additives. Also very good cleaner/solvent, and friction reducer

1/4% 1, 4 para-Dichlorobenzene
- EP agent as it interacts with Iron to form an Iron chloride barrier under any ZDDP or other AW additives. Also very good cleaner/solvent, and friction reducer

Oil of wintergreen - for the scent
- Not just for the cent, is also a cleaner. may aid lubricity.

Red Dye - for the color
- well this one just colors the stuff"

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1835056

I used to use it in the gas of my motorcycles (BSA, Indian, & Harley) that called for "upper cylinder lubricant". The top-end oiling system in those old bikes was either marginal or non-existent, and the MMO seemed to help. never used it in the oil though; didn't want want to thin the viscosity.
 
When I got my pickup, it had 150K on it, and the timing chain would rattle like crazy when it was first started up from cold. First oil change I substituted a quart of MMO, ran it for about 100 miles, then dumped the oil, it was surprisingly dark. Timing chain rattle disappeared. Made a believer out of me.
 
Hmmm, "It probably won't help, but it can't hurt." is hardly a glowing endorsement

I think he was being sarcastic :D

I might have to nut up and try putting some in on my next oil change. Be nice to quiet my lifters down a bit so it doesn't sound so much like a sewing machine when it idles, though I know that's just a normal noise. Mine's gotten no better or worse with age and valve adjustments.
 
When I got my pickup, it had 150K on it, and the timing chain would rattle like crazy when it was first started up from cold. First oil change I substituted a quart of MMO, ran it for about 100 miles, then dumped the oil, it was surprisingly dark. Timing chain rattle disappeared. Made a believer out of me.


What kind of truck do you have?
 
it healed and old GMC Jimmy i had. at 148,000 it started to make some funky noises . i was driving this truck over a 100 miles daily,and used it as an emergency response vehicle for our volunteer fire dept. through some terrible terrain and so called roads.
with a new baby,i just couldn't afford a new rig. the consensus among mechanics was to get rid of it quick ! old guy down the road recommended MMO,and the rest is history.
drove it til 198,000 and sold it,still going strong !
i even used some in the transfer case,needless to say i never had a problem with the 4WD either
 
...piston skirts, usually.

t

I love "skirts"...

Oh well, and what would be the likely cause, in your opinion,
that the skirts are rubbing (ohh) against the cylinder wall (Uhh, Ohh, Mnpf!!)
;p
 
...so I went to look at this http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ website...

OMFG! Oil nerds! CYFBI? People into oil! WTF!
I'm happy, I got my lubricant! :hillbilly:
:flamingo: :doh:
 
Does anyone know if this can be mixed with synthetic? I have 260K on a clean 2F running synthetic for most of it's life. I have a bit of compression loss on #5. The other cylinders are at or above factory spec. Wonder if this might help it.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom