This is correct.
@richardlillard1 drove all the way from AZ to buy my old axles and will be duplicating my design, but he and I shared a text exchange about the location of the lower link mounts.
Hold on - I'm about to get opinionated.
OK, when designing linked suspensions, I'm now of the opinion that while trade-offs and optimizations are going to be inevitable, you should basically start with this thought process. By the time you get to the end of the list, you may choose another approach for an earlier step.
1) Monuments and physical constraints. What fits where? I used to just argue that if it doesn't fit, cut it off and weld another one on. Or make it fit. That sort of thing. The problem with this approach is that it often leads to a royal PITA for servicing, installation, etc. Or it just unpeels the onion way further than it needs to be peeled. So if you have to move something to make something work, just think really hard about it first (i.e. the gas tank - see my previous post).
2) Roll axis - This is more than just a single number, it's how it behaves under travel. And, as I learned in my 5-link exercise, the magnitude of this effect based on your suspension design (radius arms with roll axis issues = less bad than 3-link with roll axis issues). But overall, you want a neutral setup. It works better off-road, it *is* safer on-road, etc.
3) Bump steer / flex steer - Beyond just getting your track bar and drag link in alignment, triangulation in 3-links will cause a steering behavior.
4) Instant Center / wheel recession - Don't have your suspension just annoyingly unload every time you try to go over an obstacle.
5) All the other behavioral characteristics of the suspension (or as many as you can wrap your head around - there are tons) - Pinion behavior through suspension travel, squat/dive, etc. These are all somewhat important but usually easy to solve for.
6) Ground clearance - OK, I'm not saying don't worry about this, but the biggest monuments for ground clearance are going to be your axles, skid plates, body, etc. It's not great to get hung up on links but if you have a well performing suspension that drives safely, you can probably hammer down a little bit to get over obstacles. So, do the best you can, but get the other stuff right first. My $0.02 anyway.
Alright - so my 3-link. You can basically either raise the track bar (and drag link, requiring high steer, and then you're going to get close to the frame rails on stuff, so that sort of sucks), raise the lower links (I think I went as far as humanly possible here), or triangulate the lower links. Triangulating lower links, if you read my diatribe above, will cause some flex steer as the axle shifts left and right during travel. So a little bit is unnoticeable, but having angled links with a lot of triangulation may look good from a clearance POV but drive like crap. That said, you still have to clear tires and nobody wants the frame mounts hanging 6" below the frame, so a litlte bit of triangulation gets you the last mile after you've raised the lowers and flattened them as much as possible.
@richardlillard1 is going to try using the factory lower locations, which are going to be a few inches outboard of where I had them when I had that axle, and on paper it should perform ok but slightly more oversteery than mine were. I'm guessing it'll be fine but you may want to see his results first.