Mark Tack Weld Fix, YES / NO ???

[ojaij40]

HI, Guy's !!!! I'm clear on my disc conversion build now, I have it completely disassembled and cleaned. YES, I TOOK LOT'S of PICTURES!!!! AND I BOUGHT a SILVER STAR!!!! I am thinking of doing the Mark Tack Weld Method, I will have an ARB locker, any thoughts on why/ or why NOT to do this??

 

[Pin_Head]

Umm, that would be mar tack; named after Marlin (whazzhisname? Chaikowsky?) of Marlin Crawler in Fresno. The reason to do this is it makes replacing the Birfield easier, which can be an advantage if this happens out on the trail somewhere, which is where they usually break.

 

[EWheeler]

From my research, the martack is not necessary with an ARB. Best to install everything and make sure that the sealing surface on the inner axle is not allowed to walk in far enough that you lose seal with the inner axle seal though. While your at it, install some of Marlins bomber inner axle seals: HD Inner Axle Seal, Hilux | Marlin Crawler, Inc.

 

[Coolerman]

Yep, I had nothing to do with that mod. I learned of it on the LCML.

 

[mustardfj40]

From my research, the martack is not necessary with an ARB. Best to install everything and make sure that the sealing surface on the inner axle is not allowed to walk in far enough that you lose seal with the inner axle seal though. While your at it, install some of Marlins bomber inner axle seals: HD Inner Axle Seal, Hilux | Marlin Crawler, Inc.

I thought only with semi-float ARB not the full float ARB?

 

[Pighead]

any thoughts on why/ or why NOT to do this??

I thought that adding a Mar-tack was just SOP whenever you have the axles apart. It gets done routinely. I can't think of a reason not to do it.

 

[jcj_78FJ40]

The mar-tack keeps the shaft from walking in to the carrier and eliminates the birfield inner cir-clip which is a PIA to remove and usually breaks.

I would think you would need this for a full float or semi-float ARB. I’m running the Semi-float ARB w/ cross shaft in the front of my 40 and my axels would slide in far enough so that the outer seal is compromised w/out the tack.

What I did is place a small light tack on the inner edge of the inner shaft splines. Install the axel until the tack hits the carrier. Then you can get an idea of where the mar-tacks should be by looking at the outer oil seal and where it should be lining up on the axel.

Then I made another light tack a little further toward the outer edge of the inner axel splines and repeated the above step. I repeated this process until the axel bottoms out so that the outer seal is properly lined up, that’s where I put the mar-tacks. You will want to do this for both sides. For future reference, measure and record the mar-tacks location. You will want it when you break an axel and have to replace it.

Marlins HD oil seals will make things a lot easier.

Good luck

 

[ojaij40]

Thankyou Everyone,...

Yes, I'm going to do it, I am using a '74 semi floater stock front diff., with an ARB and BJ60 birfs. So I would like to eliminate the PIA inner circlip. Thankyou all

 

[MD11Fr8Dog]

Yes, allows you to eliminate the birfield cir-clip and when this happens

it also makes it easier to get the stub out of the birfield (Longfield in my case )

I have also been told that its not necessary with ARBs, which I run, but I tacked my replacement short side inner anyway!

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi All;

Ah, there is no such thing as a"semi floater stock front diff."

*All* Toyota live front axle assemblies are of the "full floating" variety.

-Alan

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Yes, I'm going to do it, I am using a '74 semi floater stock front diff., with an ARB and BJ60 birfs. So I would like to eliminate the PIA inner circlip. Thankyou all

 

[Stumpalama]

Hi All;

Ah, there is no such thing as a"semi floater stock front diff."

*All* Toyota live front axle assemblies are of the "full floating" variety.

-Alan

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That is correct; however, he is using an ARB... now if it is the semi float ARB (I use semi float ARB's front and rear... so if I trash the rear, I can swap the front into the rear and vice versa) the martack supposedly isn't necessary because the center block stops the axle shafts from walking in. That being said, I martacked my current axle shafts and my spares just to be safe

 

[mustardfj40]

That is correct; however, he is using an ARB... now if it is the semi float ARB (I use semi float ARB's front and rear... so if I trash the rear, I can swap the front into the rear and vice versa) the martack supposedly isn't necessary because the center block stops the axle shafts from walking in. That being said, I martacked my current axle shafts and my spares just to be safe

Yeah, I learned that from the LCML years ago and my truck is actually running semi-float ARBs both front and rear until.....I converted my rear semi-float axle to a full-float axle....so now I am running 2 semi-float ARBs in 2 full-float axles