Mark Levinson Amp - Fan Replacement (2011 LX570) (8 Viewers)

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TL;DR / BLUF: Fans to replace the active cooling present in P/N 86280-0W780 are: Y.S. Tech YW04510012LM, which is a 45MM x 10MM 12V 0.14A fan (set of two) with standard three-wire config. I'll put a more in-depth DIY and pics if anyone wants. Total fix: ~$40 and maybe 1hr of time. One banana job.

Hello All,

I'm a pretty young/new member of the LC/LX cult and dipping my toes into the contribution end of what makes this forum great. You guys have helped on several of my projects for my former 2006 LC (RIP....freeway accident, which I was not at fault) and I'm eager to find my small ways to help out the 200-series group, now.

I thought I'd put this out there to memorialize a quick fix I'm in the middle of performing for my "new-to-me" LX570. The only searches I've found for defects in the Mark Levinson Amplifier resulted in replacement or repair of the unit, which was quite costly. Obviously the reasons for that can warrant a pricey refurbish, but my issues were solely related to the fans and the amp's performance was otherwise as-expected.

I bought my 2011 LX570 with ~125k miles recently, after some time in a 100-series LC. The 2011 has been great in my two weeks of ownership; only issue was a minor, consistent noise in the cabin. Sounding like some fan or small motor, I isolated the noise by first cycling through all HVAC options, AHC , braking, chill box, DVD drive, etc to no avail. This was not A/C-related, not speed dependent, did not change in tone when driving, and I've watched too many clips already of random chirps, screeches, or humming, so now I know what to watch out for with all of the above! If I were to summarize the sound I heard (for others who think they may have this), it was a cyclical "whirring" or "humming" type sound that I have been familiar through building a few PCs over the past few years. If you have tried troubleshooting all of the above components, maybe this is the fix for you.

In any event, recalling the Mark Levinson amp resides under the Driver's seat and seeing a few postings about "popping," "no sound," or other failures of the component, I figured I'd check the amp. Didn't have those issues, but it was another component to check -- ran my hand under the car with ignition on and sure enough, vibration was consistent with the audible hum over the section housing the amp. You can (gently) maneuver your hand over the fans from the rear of the seat when you slide your seat as far forward as possible. They are facing the center console and have a cutout in the carpet for intake and I was able to lightly press down and stop one of the fans; noise immediately subsided. Score. Rather than sending in the amp to a repair facility ($350-700+ from my research), I figured I'd try to take the amp out and have a look before bringing out the checkbook.

I was able to remove the amp after unbolting the seat, unplugging the amp's wires through the access area in the carpet, and (begrudgingly) making small cuts in the carpet to easily unbolt the amp at its three secure points and pull out through the flap I had just created. Not sure if there's a set of extensions, swivel joints, or other to combination of socket hardware to reach two of the three bolts without some tugging on the carpet as-is. Maybe I just didn't have the patience or small enough hands, but I struggled to find a way to access, free up, and remove the amp without cuts and simply assumed the amp is installed before carpet (unlike my former 100-series).

Using a PC repair kit and its T10 bit, I easily removed the fan's intake module on the side of the amplifier and was pleasantly surprised to see a simple fan header (like a PC's motherboard) vice any soldering for these fans. The interior of the amp was dusty so I took some compressed air to it. I cleared out some human hair that had been wrapped around the fan's axes. Wasn't like it was a rat's nest down there, but the debris may have added to the shorting of the fan bearings' life spans. It's clear that the fan intakes facing the console are susceptible to whatever falls between the console and seat. I found all sorts of items (set of random keys, a standard size sharpie, a full size plastic knife (utensil), and some random nuts/snacks under amp after removed.

Anyway, the P/Ns for the fans are from Y. S. Tech and the model number is YW4510012LM. The tech specs for this are 45MM x 10MM and operate at 12V DC 0.14A. The amplifier has a sleeve to keep the pair's wires together, which doesn't seem to be a necessity (save for reduction in any airflow interference). From a space perspective, there is no room for a larger diameter, or deeper fan -- the casing will only accommodate 45MM and the thickness of the fans sits flush with the fan case's depth. A thicker fan may prevent mounting of the fan housing and the rest of the amplifier's body.

I investigated the model number to understand the differences in their other 45MM offerings and found this PDF on YS Tech's model numbering. I was able to find an exact replacement for this pair on ebay, but in case others have this same issue, I wanted to make sure others were aware of the differences in "....12LM" versus "...12BH" models. The L-series bearing looks to be superior to B-series or S-series, from a technology standpoint. YS Tech has a blog post about the Sentitco bearings if you feel the need for due diligence and/or want to "drink the Kool Aid" with its superior design to normal sleeve bearings. The M-coding implies a "medium" speed which I don't know the RPM/CFM for, but it's worth observing that H-coded may increase dB of the fans underneath the seat, for what seems to be unnecessarily added CFM. The other variants are much cheaper (more what I'd expect for such a small fan), but I was comfortable putting the exact replacement in for another 9+ years. I'll let someone else explore other combinations of bearings, speed, or manufacturers...for science!

I cannot confirm that these particular models are still in production and they don't really have a storefront for low-quantity buys. I also cannot confirm whether there any alternate 45MM x 10MM 12V fan suppliers will work in this spot, but will gladly do my best to take pics or provide measurements while the amp is out of the truck. I paid ~$36 for the assembled pair in new condition and will follow-up when the replacement is complete. Thought to post now in case anyone had any other questions.

Hope this helps, and maybe it's a lot to post for a ~$40 fix, but I hope it may potentially save a Mudder $360-700+ on sending in their amp as a flat-fee refurbish when it's simply the fan that must be replaced.


-Eric
 
Solid. We need more information posts like this.

There's been rare occurances of ML Amp failure. I wonder if many of the failures stem from overheating due to fan related failures. Good that you were able to catch the fans demise before it outright failed. I can see situations where it would fail without making a noise.

I may stick my hand/ears down there just as a check to see that mine are healthy.
 
Pic of fans I had taken for another thread.

E4D9D76A-E4EF-4D77-8077-0E772C003A3E.jpeg
 
Had to replace these in my 2010 as well. I was able to get the amp out without cutting the carpet but recall it wasn't easy.
 
Had to replace these in my 2010 as well. I was able to get the amp out without cutting the carpet but recall it wasn't easy.

Did my 2010 too. Sourcing the fans is tricky. Most vendors now sell them without the notches on the corners of the housing. I had to cut and file the housing to fit properly. If you remove the door tread plate trim piece you can lift the carpet from the outside edge. This makes accessing all the bolts to the amp mounting bracket much easier and no cutting is required.
 
TL;DR / BLUF: Fans to replace the active cooling present in P/N 86280-0W780 are: Y.S. Tech YW04510012LM, which is a 45MM x 10MM 12V 0.14A fan (set of two) with standard three-wire config. I'll put a more in-depth DIY and pics if anyone wants. Total fix: ~$40 and maybe 1hr of time. One banana job.

Hello All,

I'm a pretty young/new member of the LC/LX cult and dipping my toes into the contribution end of what makes this forum great. You guys have helped on several of my projects for my former 2006 LC (RIP....freeway accident, which I was not at fault) and I'm eager to find my small ways to help out the 200-series group, now.

I thought I'd put this out there to memorialize a quick fix I'm in the middle of performing for my "new-to-me" LX570. The only searches I've found for defects in the Mark Levinson Amplifier resulted in replacement or repair of the unit, which was quite costly. Obviously the reasons for that can warrant a pricey refurbish, but my issues were solely related to the fans and the amp's performance was otherwise as-expected.

I bought my 2011 LX570 with ~125k miles recently, after some time in a 100-series LC. The 2011 has been great in my two weeks of ownership; only issue was a minor, consistent noise in the cabin. Sounding like some fan or small motor, I isolated the noise by first cycling through all HVAC options, AHC , braking, chill box, DVD drive, etc to no avail. This was not A/C-related, not speed dependent, did not change in tone when driving, and I've watched too many clips already of random chirps, screeches, or humming, so now I know what to watch out for with all of the above! If I were to summarize the sound I heard (for others who think they may have this), it was a cyclical "whirring" or "humming" type sound that I have been familiar through building a few PCs over the past few years. If you have tried troubleshooting all of the above components, maybe this is the fix for you.

In any event, recalling the Mark Levinson amp resides under the Driver's seat and seeing a few postings about "popping," "no sound," or other failures of the component, I figured I'd check the amp. Didn't have those issues, but it was another component to check -- ran my hand under the car with ignition on and sure enough, vibration was consistent with the audible hum over the section housing the amp. You can (gently) maneuver your hand over the fans from the rear of the seat when you slide your seat as far forward as possible. They are facing the center console and have a cutout in the carpet for intake and I was able to lightly press down and stop one of the fans; noise immediately subsided. Score. Rather than sending in the amp to a repair facility ($350-700+ from my research), I figured I'd try to take the amp out and have a look before bringing out the checkbook.

I was able to remove the amp after unbolting the seat, unplugging the amp's wires through the access area in the carpet, and (begrudgingly) making small cuts in the carpet to easily unbolt the amp at its three secure points and pull out through the flap I had just created. Not sure if there's a set of extensions, swivel joints, or other to combination of socket hardware to reach two of the three bolts without some tugging on the carpet as-is. Maybe I just didn't have the patience or small enough hands, but I struggled to find a way to access, free up, and remove the amp without cuts and simply assumed the amp is installed before carpet (unlike my former 100-series).

Using a PC repair kit and its T10 bit, I easily removed the fan's intake module on the side of the amplifier and was pleasantly surprised to see a simple fan header (like a PC's motherboard) vice any soldering for these fans. The interior of the amp was dusty so I took some compressed air to it. I cleared out some human hair that had been wrapped around the fan's axes. Wasn't like it was a rat's nest down there, but the debris may have added to the shorting of the fan bearings' life spans. It's clear that the fan intakes facing the console are susceptible to whatever falls between the console and seat. I found all sorts of items (set of random keys, a standard size sharpie, a full size plastic knife (utensil), and some random nuts/snacks under amp after removed.

Anyway, the P/Ns for the fans are from Y. S. Tech and the model number is YW4510012LM. The tech specs for this are 45MM x 10MM and operate at 12V DC 0.14A. The amplifier has a sleeve to keep the pair's wires together, which doesn't seem to be a necessity (save for reduction in any airflow interference). From a space perspective, there is no room for a larger diameter, or deeper fan -- the casing will only accommodate 45MM and the thickness of the fans sits flush with the fan case's depth. A thicker fan may prevent mounting of the fan housing and the rest of the amplifier's body.

I investigated the model number to understand the differences in their other 45MM offerings and found this PDF on YS Tech's model numbering. I was able to find an exact replacement for this pair on ebay, but in case others have this same issue, I wanted to make sure others were aware of the differences in "....12LM" versus "...12BH" models. The L-series bearing looks to be superior to B-series or S-series, from a technology standpoint. YS Tech has a blog post about the Sentitco bearings if you feel the need for due diligence and/or want to "drink the Kool Aid" with its superior design to normal sleeve bearings. The M-coding implies a "medium" speed which I don't know the RPM/CFM for, but it's worth observing that H-coded may increase dB of the fans underneath the seat, for what seems to be unnecessarily added CFM. The other variants are much cheaper (more what I'd expect for such a small fan), but I was comfortable putting the exact replacement in for another 9+ years. I'll let someone else explore other combinations of bearings, speed, or manufacturers...for science!

I cannot confirm that these particular models are still in production and they don't really have a storefront for low-quantity buys. I also cannot confirm whether there any alternate 45MM x 10MM 12V fan suppliers will work in this spot, but will gladly do my best to take pics or provide measurements while the amp is out of the truck. I paid ~$36 for the assembled pair in new condition and will follow-up when the replacement is complete. Thought to post now in case anyone had any other questions.

Hope this helps, and maybe it's a lot to post for a ~$40 fix, but I hope it may potentially save a Mudder $360-700+ on sending in their amp as a flat-fee refurbish when it's simply the fan that must be replaced.


-Eric
Pics would be great, I need to do this soon!
 
I’ll be doing this in a couple weeks when the correct parts arrive. I’ll be happy to document it for you. I’ve already had it apart once but my replacement fans didn’t fit correctly.
 
I’ll be doing this in a couple weeks when the correct parts arrive. I’ll be happy to document it for you. I’ve already had it apart once but my replacement fans didn’t fit correctly.


I just ordered my new fans, I really hope I ordered the right one?
Original Y . S . TECH 4.5cm 12V 0.14A YW4510012LM 45 * 45 * 10mm 3 - wire double - ball cooling fan
 
I was tackling another issue with my amp, but this may help with those just wanting to change the fans. It’s pretty straight forward. 4 seat bolts, wiring harness to the seat, and then 3 10mm bolts holding amp in (one is kind of hiding) and harness connectors.

 
I just ordered my new fans, I really hope I ordered the right one?
Original Y . S . TECH 4.5cm 12V 0.14A YW4510012LM 45 * 45 * 10mm 3 - wire double - ball cooling fan
That’s the correct fan model. In some cases however, it comes with a slightly different fan casing and/or different connector. Fingers crossed we both get the right one. Otherwise I will be cutting the casing or changing the connectors.
 
I was tackling another issue with my amp, but this may help with those just wanting to change the fans. It’s pretty straight forward. 4 seat bolts, wiring harness to the seat, and then 3 10mm bolts holding amp in (one is kind of hiding) and harness connectors.

Nice video. When I first took mine apart, I was able to avoid unplugging the seat. I simply unbolted it and then tipped it back to rest on the rear seats. There is plenty of room to work.

it is not necessary to remove the board from the amp case either, as you can unplug the fans with a pair of needle nose pliers.

It’s interesting to see so many of our early LXs seem to be having this issue. I’m still waiting on my fans from China, but I will be sure to take lots of pics to share next time I’m in there.
 
I believe i have the same issue, but in my 2011 Lexus GX460 and the amp is impossible to get to. my question is if I order the fan, is it just plug and play in the amp ? as it it in PC building ? or do i have to strip some wires and solder it to the AMP ?
 
I believe i have the same issue, but in my 2011 Lexus GX460 and the amp is impossible to get to. my question is if I order the fan, is it just plug and play in the amp ? as it it in PC building ? or do i have to strip some wires and solder it to the AMP ?
When I did the fan swap, it was similar pinning like a PC motherboard -- just a plastic female end on the fan wires to slide onto pins/plastic seat. Hope your experience is the same!
 
I did this and it worked well. Things I did / learned in addition to the above:

  1. I ordered generic fans from Amazon that conformed to the dimensions above. I had to notch the corners of the fans to make them fit but that was no biggie
  2. I was able to get the amp out using the method above of removing the trim piece and sliding the amp towards the door
  3. My fan connectors on the new fans were larger than the ones that were OEM. I just soldered color for color the old connectors on the new fans
  4. Ratcheting 8mm and 10mm wrenches will make life much easier!
  5. Didn't remove seat, just removed bolts and tilted it backwards
 
I also just finished replacing the fans. Similar to @Jeff Elliott, I purchased fans from Amazon and needed to do a few alterations. I thought I would put a few pictures hoping to be helpful for the next person.

1. I found removing the seat was fairly easy. The worst part being lifting the seat out of the car. It did allow me to clean up a bit as it was a bit dirty from the PO. I also removed the sill plates from the front and rear doors as well as the B pillar plastic molding, and the seat belt at the bottom. It was more work to take everything out but there was no struggle with the amp, connectors, and it made sliding the amp under the carpet easy. Below is a picture of the amp in place on top of the carpet showing where to find the three 10mm screws (in red) to remove the amp.
1625321519774.png


2. The replacement fans were purchased from Amazon. they were the right size, but needed some modifications to fit. I drilled the corners down about 4 mm, leaving 7 mm of plastic on the corners to match the existing fans. I also reused the connectors from the existing fans because the new fans had a different one. Below are pictures of the existing fans, my mods to the new fans, and finally the new fans in place.
1625321952754.png

Original fans in the amplifier. One was making noise so I decided to replace both.
1625322462215.png

Notice the corners on the existing fans (in green). The overall thickness is about 10.2 and the thickness in the corners is 7 mm. For the new fans, all 4 corners (red and yellow) need to be modified even though there are only 2 mounting screws per fan (red).

1625323388883.png

The new fan is on the left and the existing fan on the right. Other than the corners, they fit well.

1625323528677.png

I used a 19/64 drill bit, set the depth on the mini drill press and drilled down, leaving about 7 mm of plastic on the corners, then cleaned up the left over plastic with a utility knife (knife work not shown in the picture).
 
1625323926962.png

Checking the depth with the old (right) and new fans from Amazon.

Finally, I soldered the wires (matched colors), applied shrink wrap around each wire and one over the entire wire set. It turned out fairly well.
1625324127446.png


After install, I listened to the fans and they are slightly louder then the existing good fan, but I chose the ball bearing fans for a (hopefully) longer lifespan. With the seat in and sitting in the car with everything running, the fans under the seat are not noticeable, even when trying to listen for them.

Thanks to all before me with the previous write ups. You gent are great and I hope this continues to help others.
 
Got my fans in a couple days ago. I went with the Y.S. Tech YW04510012LM part number. Hopefully I'll get a chance to tackle the install this weekend.
IMG_5981.jpg
 
Got my fans in a couple days ago. I went with the Y.S. Tech YW04510012LM part number. Hopefully I'll get a chance to tackle the install this weekend.
Let us know if they turn out to be fully plug and play?
 
Let us know if they turn out to be fully plug and play?
Well just finished the install. Unfortunately it was not plug and play. As with others here, the corners of the fans had to be notched down and the connectors were not the same. I ended up reusing the old connectors and attaching them to the new fans.

I also elected to pull remove the door sill cover and pull up the carpet in order to gain easier access to the amp bolts and for removing the amp through the side.

IMG_5993.jpg

IMG_5995.jpg
 

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