Manual Locking Hubs (1 Viewer)

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Hi all -

Was distracted for a few minutes at work and thought up a hypothetical use case thanks to the (many) busted front diff stories I've come across.

I've searched a bit for this, but haven't found anyone that's answered this before.

Hypothetically speaking (or anecdotally if someone has done this), could I buy part-time locking hubs and run them on my 100 as full time hubs? My use case is if I ever managed to grenade my front diff while out on a trail somewhere. The usual course of action when that happens is to remove your front driveshaft and drive flanges and do your best to keep dirt/mud/debris out of your now exposed wheel bearings and cv axle end.

I think a better option would be to remove the front drive shaft, unlock your hubs, and be in 2wd in minutes.

Is this feasible, or has anyone done this before? I'm not interested in the whole part-time system, but Mark's 4wd sells just the hubs for a lot of money at Part Time Hubs for 100 IFS. Seems like it would be a good investment before I try and tackle the Trans-labrador highway, and would certainly make me less paranoid when I drive ten hours for a four wheel drive weekend in the smokies!
 
As I understand it, it is quite tough to find hubs that work with the stock CV Axles. Cruiser Outfitters has found some hubs that do work with the stock driveshafts. I don't know if they are selling them yet though. I would recommend calling them up and talking with them.

Unless you do a lot of wheeling alone, this feels like a lot of work to get around an unlikely problem. It also seems like it might create new problems.
 
You could, but manual hubs are weaker than drive flanges. Go for it, though

Definitely be curious if they can hold up to the continually locked mode of operation, with the rare unlock, rather than the other way around.

As I understand it, it is quite tough to find hubs that work with the stock CV Axles. Cruiser Outfitters has found some hubs that do work with the stock driveshafts. I don't know if they are selling them yet though. I would recommend calling them up and talking with them.

Unless you do a lot of wheeling alone, this feels like a lot of work to get around an unlikely problem. It also seems like it might create new problems.

Unfortunately, I do tend to end up on my own more often than going out with a group. It doesn't see like it would be much work, however - I'd just be replacing the hubs, which should be as simple as removing the drive flanges and putting on the hubs (was hoping to hear from someone that was the case). I've read the IFS 100 needs special hubs, but those Mark's ones are made for their part time kit. Maybe cruiser outfitters has found a cheaper option for us.
 
Definitely be curious if they can hold up to the continually locked mode of operation, with the rare unlock, rather than the other way around.



Unfortunately, I do tend to end up on my own more often than going out with a group. It doesn't see like it would be much work, however - I'd just be replacing the hubs, which should be as simple as removing the drive flanges and putting on the hubs (was hoping to hear from someone that was the case). I've read the IFS 100 needs special hubs, but those Mark's ones are made for their part time kit. Maybe cruiser outfitters has found a cheaper option for us.

My understanding was that both kits also required modified CV Axles as well. I am not 100% on the Marks kit, but the Cruiser Outfitters kit previously required modified CV axles. Cruiser Outfitters new setup shouldn't though. They also offer the superior Aisin hubs.
 
Here is the thread that Cruiser Outfitters started:

*Edit* The thread says that the AVM hubs do work with the US spec CV axles.
 
Cruiser outfitters will release an AISIN hub to work with stock CVs soon.
 
Here is the thread that Cruiser Outfitters started:

*Edit* The thread says that the AVM hubs do work with the US spec CV axles.

Thanks for finding that thread, I'll look through it. I'd probably rather the AISIN hubs too.
 
I just purchased a set of Mark's 4x4 part time hubs for my '03 LX. Didn't seem overly pricey to me at $800 (AUD) delivered. Sitting on my coffee table at the moment, looking forward to getting them fitted next week :cool:
 
I just purchased a set of Mark's 4x4 part time hubs for my '03 LX. Didn't seem overly pricey to me at $800 (AUD) delivered. Sitting on my coffee table at the moment, looking forward to getting them fitted next week :cool:

Nice! This is definitely on my list of things to do as a safety measure, and it's easy enough to carry a rebuild kit and a pair of drive flanges as backup.

I say expensive as I've bought hubs for Nissan vehicles in the past and they were in the 200 USD range, so 400 seemed rather expensive. Maybe the Nissan ones just happened to be cheap.
 
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Seems like it would be better insurance to just throw a locker up front..........
 
Seems like it would be better insurance to just throw a locker up front..........

This was initially my thoughts, but there is quite a price discrepancy. It would be the better option though. I have been wheeling and broken 2 CV axles, but I have never had an issue with my locked front diff. I know the previous owner also broke a CV, but didn't have any diff issues.
 
@gungriffin are you using OEM CV axles? Crazy to me that you have broken 2 axles. Are you bouncing and spinning wheels alot?
 
If you're worried about snapping an axle, you could always save an old set of flanges and machines the splines smooth to keep as "emergency" flanges. Sure, it's not as easy as turning a dial on a manual hub, but it allows you to drive away without any missing parts.
 
If you're worried about snapping an axle, you could always save an old set of flanges and machines the splines smooth to keep as "emergency" flanges. Sure, it's not as easy as turning a dial on a manual hub, but it allows you to drive away without any missing parts.
But with the manual hubs you could easily do rear wheel drive burnouts :steer: I have a set of old flanges that I had my machinist neighbor smooth out as emergency units on the trail (+320k miles on the stock '99 diff).
 
@gungriffin are you using OEM CV axles? Crazy to me that you have broken 2 axles. Are you bouncing and spinning wheels alot?

Toyota CVs both times. For me both failures were on the passenger side. First time snapped the shaft. This was likely just because it was a worn and well loved CV. I have no idea if it was the original, but the hub flange/axle teeth had some wear. The second time I was out with some solid axle guys at CM19. They don't have to worry about the same things us 100 series guys do. I made the mistake of listening to the spotter and going up an obstacle with the steering at full lock. I broke the CV axle cup at the wheel. Not sure what exactly failed for the previous owner, but he also broke the driver's side at HIH7.

Part of this is learning, but part of it is my truck has been wheeled hard over 280k miles.
 
@gungriffin Thanks for the explanations.

Note to self - when CDL locked don't turn full lock and mind the throttle.
 
I'd love to see a reliable manual hub kit be released for the US CVs.. in short, when coupled with a spool in the tcase, it would improve longevity of front end parts (most noteably diff and CVs), decrease the need for diff drop, torque steer gone, ability to drive home easier with a broken axle/diff. Might even see a MPG improvement.

Right before the part time kit was released by Cruiser Outfitters, I replaced my CVs. I was diagnosing vibrations, and removed the drive flanges, and driveshaft.. and am currently driving around with the hub flanges installed, driveshaft removed, and CDL locked. I really dont want to buy custom CVs, so I will patiently wait for US compatible (reliable) manual hubs to come out.
 

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