Make the 80 Great Again! (Prelude to a turbo)

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HDJdreams

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Regardless of your political affiliation, I'm sure you'll agree that MAGA is overused. But as that slogan was getting tossed around all the time during the campaign, I couldn't help but think: Make the 80 Great Again! (M80GA)

A few years ago, I was getting discouraged about the condition of my 1997 FZJ80 that I have owned since 2001.

80 Series Lament

When I bought it, I had every intention of being one of the OCD Mud owners and taking fanatical care of my 80 while building it up to a great trail rig. Well, a whole lot of life happened and I was luck to just hang onto it through a lot of career changes and moves back and forth across the country.

Well, I finally have some time and resources (and a garage!). My wife has a 2004 for her daily driver. So it was time to start catching up on long overdue maintenance and then hopefully move on to upgrades. I picked up a rolled 97 for parts a couple years ago and recently acquired a stock, very well maintained 96 (PO owned a lube shop) with 380k miles. It had different issues than my 97 and driving it reminded me of what my 97 can be.

I debated whether to create this thread or not, what could I add to the Mud Community? There have been many amazing restro-update threads, @Boltripper , is a marvelous example. His rig is in better condition and far more capable than when it left the factory.

This will not be one of those threads, I almost called it "Rattle Can Restoration". I decided that while my rig is nothing special, hopefully it will help others out. I'll post what I did, then later one you can ask what worked and what didn't. My thread will not likely have much unique stuff compared to other threads, but it can be another data point.

"Use the search" is a favorite mantra on Mud. I have had mixed luck with it, a lot of times the results are old. For example, group 31 batteries, back in 2003 I put an Optima Yellowtop 31T in my Cruiser (in anticipation of a winch that I still have not got yet). It did great for 12 years, then I finally killed it. By then the word was that Optima's quality had gone down, but lots of people like the Sears Platinum AGMs. I replaced it with a 31 Sears Platinum Marine AGM, I thought it was the same as the Odyssey battery. It died in less than a year, the one I got was not at all rated for starting duty.

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About my username: Back in 95 I saw a German magazine do a comparison between HDJ80 with a 5 speed and the FZJ80 with an automatic. The two were virtually identical in the different speed tests, but the HDJ literally got one and a half times the MPG or better. Not long after that, I saw an article in an Australian magazine reviewing an HDJ80 with a 5 speed and the Safari Intercooler, an exhaust and some fuel adjustments. It had way more power and torque, and COULD get better mpg if not flogged. That was my dream TLC!

Unfortunately, no HDJ or 5 speeds in the US, so I got a 97 FZJ80. I always wanted more torque and hopefully mpg. I missed the supercharger boat (both times) due to life not cooperating. I was choking on the cost of 1FZ rebuild and very limited power options and agonized over V8 or diesel swaps for years.

I just sold a 2005 Ram with a Cummins (and got the 96 FZJ). I LOVED the torque, and that giant, poorly geared beast still got better mpg than the 80. But I sold it because it was too noisy at idle and on the freeway. That cured me of any thoughts of putting a 4BT or 6BT in my Cruiser. Those are even louder than the CRD I had, and the heavy Cummins was really hard on the massive front axle in the Ram, I can't imagine that stock 80 front would hold up very well, especially off-roading in rocks. There are several guys on Mud that have them, and I wish them the best but it's not the right motor for my 80.

I looked very hard at an LS swap or possibly the new Cummins R2.8. Then the word came out about the new FZ turbo kit came out. I realized that the most important thing was to get my 80 trail ready again before the kids move out!

A couple of decades ago, I was a solid :banana::banana::banana::banana: mechanic and fabricator. Now I would be lucky to qualify for :banana::banana:. I frankly admitted to myself that it would take me WAY too long to work my way through a swap, and I didn't have the funds to pay someone else like TorFab to do it for me. So I needed to stick to bolt on. Then word of a new bolt on turbo came out, and it gave me hope.

The rolled 97's 1FZ had just had it's head rebuilt. I am going to pull that, replace the main seals (the 1FZ in my 97 literally leaks oil in every direction: front, back, top, bottom), clean the injectors, and slap the turbo and exhaust on. Hopefully the pig will be able to hold speed going up hill.

The cost the turbo kit and the eventual full rebuild of a 1FZ will likely cost as much as LS swap, but the whole point of my TLC is to use it, not to be a permanent resident of the garage. That will be the common theme of my thread. I want a stout TLC on 37s, but I will have to settle for several intermediate steps along the way.
 
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The rear axle was leaking really bad out of the driver’s side, so I started there.

(Well, I tackled the non leaky passenger side first.) My first time in the rear hubs.

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Congrats on your journey. Be interesting to see how the turbo works out for you. I can say that forced induction makes a big difference in these engines.

On your rear axle, curious to know if there was any sign of grease left in the bearings or was it running in gear oil.
 
Not to discourage you but my 80 hasn't missed a day of driving since the LS conversion on 3 years ago. Other routine maintenance and wear and tear issues have had it in the shop for a day or two here and there but the LS is both chugging and roaring as reliably as day one. It's capital cost upfront sure, but so far its been every bit as reliable as you could ask. But keep posting, following with interest cheers.
 
This one.

Just did this a few weeks ago.
Don't let the leaf springs fool you.
It shows full float rear axle tear down.



This video is was helpful, EXCEPT he installs the seal on his drum brake hub with lip facing in, on disc brakes it goes OUT. Ended up doing it twice on one side.
 
On your rear axle, curious to know if there was any sign of grease left in the bearings or was it running in gear oil.

There was still some left on the leaky side and other side was fine on grease. Replaced everything anyway.
 
BTW, I had to REALLY, REALLY pound on the hub studs to get the cone washers to let go.
 
Not to discourage you but my 80 hasn't missed a day of driving since the LS conversion on 3 years ago. Other routine maintenance and wear and tear issues have had it in the shop for a day or two here and there but the LS is both chugging and roaring as reliably as day one. It's capital cost upfront sure, but so far its been every bit as reliable as you could ask. But keep posting, following with interest cheers.

I have no doubt that an LS swap is the best choice for a gasoline fueled power plant in the 80. I was just being honest with myself that it was far beyond my current time available and skills.

The length of time (months) it’s taking me to just get through the axle rebuilds is proof that a swap is way out of my league.
 
Another gotcha, the two theaded holes in the rear axle shafts. I made the mistake of using the first bolts I could find laying around in them. A couple of rusty trim bolts (probably from the mud flaps or something). They promptly sheared of.

I had the fun of break various tools trying to extract them.

It was too late, but I went out and bought the highest rated cap screws I could find, 12.9s, to have on hand for next time.

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As I mentioned, I did the non leaky side first. I checked the parking brake shoes against the spec, full thickness (4mm) except at the edge, which was 3.5 mm and well above the minimum (1mm I think).

I did get new rotors and pads, but kept the original shoes. Well, I get the leaky side apart and EVERYTHING is soaked in gear oil, to include the parking brake shoes.

So I ended up replacing the shoes on both sides. This when I also discovered I had put the first seal in backwards. I switched that while was there. I started this whole project because of seal leak, didn’t want it to come back soon.

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I got pads and rotors from the EBay store Brakemotive76. They don’t specify the manufacturer, but the pads come in Centric’s Stoptech Powerstop packaging. I’ve used them before and they have done fine. They didn’t warp or crack, I didn’t track the miles. But it was several years for me.

I know some people wouldn’t run drilled rotors off road, but out in the mostly dry West, I haven’t had any issues.

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Well, as I was pushing the caliper piston in to put the pads in it started leaking. So I got a rebuilt set of calipers from AutoZone. Cleaned the waxy/oily junk off them and painted them red.

I hindsight, I made two major mistakes:

I would have used Napa’s calipers which were already painted. And if I still felt the need to paint them, I would have used spray paint instead of the brush on paint that ended up taking a lot more time than I expected.

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Like I said, I almost called this “the Rattle Can Restoration”. If I have to touch something, I try to clean it up the best I can and paint it, chase the threads with a tap. I want it to look closer to new than when I started and IH8RUST!

It’s a chance to wallow in OCD after 17 years of mostly neglect.
 
Rear Axle / Rear Hub Summery:

- If your rear hasn’t been apart in 20 years, plan on pounding on the hub studs HARD! They won’t all be straight when you are done. I replaced all the hardware including the cones.

- If you use the 2 threaded holes on the axle flange, use good, high grade bolts or cap screws.

- The seal lip faces OUT on full floater axle with disc brakes.

- If your rotor is covered with gear oil, it’s a safe bet the pads and parking brake shoes are junk.

- Napa rotors are painted and best box store budget solution. @beno recommended them to me for the front. (Wish I knew when I did the rear)

- The above point makes this one unnecessary, but use spray on caliper paint, not brush on.

- The cut old bearing race, and a Harbor Fright press work great! I also found that a pipe cap was the right size to help.

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Total tangent, but seeing your shiney press jaws made me realize I bent mine last month.

Were those HF too? Thickness?
 
1” thick. They came with the 20 ton press.

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#IH8RUST

After I got done with the rear axle, I tried a rust remover I saw at Harbor Freight called Evaporust. First I tested it on some rusty lug nuts I had laying around. I was pleasantly surprised. The before and after pictures is just from soaking.

It’s pH neutral and safe for other metals. The downside is that it has to be at room temperature and only works on stuff that can soak.

It’s great for cleaning up hardware and tools that your kids left outside for extended periods of time...

I ended buying 5 gallons from “the RustStore” online. After I finally get stuff degreased, I have be soaking all my front hub and knuckle components in it.

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LOVE evaporust! Use it on everything from rusty bolts to antique tools.
 

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