Magnetic base drill or Hougen, anyone use use one regularly? (1 Viewer)

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ntsqd

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Looking for pointers on what to buy, what not to buy, etc. Thinking used, not new (can't justify the $$$ of new). Over the years I've needed one about once a year and made do without. Have project coming up where making do will involve a LOT of carbide burr work that will result in a less than ideal fit. A Hougen would poke those holes much, much easier.
 
This is the Jancy Slugger (JM101) I picked up (used) years ago. As you say, it's not something I use frequently but it makes the job much easier when I have a need for it.

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The one I got came with a Jacobs chuck on it, which suits my purposes most of the time. Typically they come with an arbor for annular cutters. I like the Jacobs chuck to be able to drill holes with regular bits and I can use hole saws, but there have been a few projects (like the one above) where I'm cutting a quantity of larger holes and (as I'm sure you know) there is a difference between a hole saw and annular cutter at that point. Unfortunately, I haven't seen the arbor pieces for less than I paid for the whole unit with the Jacobs chuck, so I haven't gone that route yet. But it's also probably why I got such a good deal on it. The ones with arbors were fetching a lot more - to the point that it seemed like I might as well just buy new.
 
I picked this up on eBay a few years back for $525 free shipping. The bonus was the two annular cutters (new) included hidden in the moulded case.
I did have to make a new handle (brass).
I use the Annular cutters more on the lathe and Mill than Mag drill but when I need to drill a round hole on a large piece, this drill is awesome.
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I didn't have a 1/2" aluminum rod to replace the bent handle so I turned threads on a brass piece I had on hand.

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Hears an example of a large Annular cutter used on a lathe. It saves a ton of time drilling, and the slug can be used for something else.

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At a long ago former employer I used to use Hougens the same way, though mostly on a mill. That was my first and only real exposure to these tools. Until this shortly up-coming project I've wanted one, but haven't been able to justify it. The HMD904 is my preferred option at this point, but I wondered if there was any advantage to a Milwaukee over it? I would be looking to get a Jacobs chuck for the 904 so that I could use sluggers, hole saws, & drill bits with it.
Anyone ever pushed a slugger thru an angled surface while mounted in a mag base drill?
 
I've been very happy with my evo carbide metal saw.

 
At a long ago former employer I used to use Hougens the same way, though mostly on a mill. That was my first and only real exposure to these tools. Until this shortly up-coming project I've wanted one, but haven't been able to justify it. The HMD904 is my preferred option at this point, but I wondered if there was any advantage to a Milwaukee over it? I would be looking to get a Jacobs chuck for the 904 so that I could use sluggers, hole saws, & drill bits with it.
Anyone ever pushed a slugger thru an angled surface while mounted in a mag base drill?


I have used Jancy Slugger mag as well as Milwaukee. All capable tools but I like the compactness offered by Jancy, Hougens.

I have used an Annular cutter on a slope without drama but it must be introduced slowly with steady feed until the cutter is cutting evenly. I also believe the cutters life can be prolonged if the mill scale is removed prior.
 
I built this machining service cart without drawings so when the time came to drill a couple of precise holes for two machined bushings this tool was used. Again not used often as others have mentioned but a handy tool non the less.
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It's always a good idea to secure the setup when drilling thiner wall material. The toque these tools produce will get you hurt.


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The kneeling drawer to house 80 or so 5C collets and metrology instruments.
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No matter which mag drill you find a deal on, it will come in handy.
 
Thank you!
You've reinforced my expectation of needing to be gentle on the feed into the sloped surface.
Mill scale, being a form of carbide, is hard stuff. I grind it off when ever practical.
 
Milwaukee has a rechargeable one, saw it on a job the guy using it liked it and said it was it to heavy and really well made.. just passing it on..
 
Circling back around, I solved the problem without spending $800, and maybe this will help someone else in the future. A sacrificial guide plate and a purpose-purchased $70 Harbor Fright tubing notcher clamped to the bumper provided all of the control and guidance needed to get the holes bored. Some ex-Boeing ariframe drills were long enough to transfer pilot holes thru to the rear of the bumper's structure. It worked brilliantly, I plan to keep the notcher around just for these kinds of projects.

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This is a fascinating thread, thank you for the education!!
 
Oddly enough I recently bought a 1-9/16" Hougen cutter. I am using it to bore out Dana 60 rear spindles to clear 35 spline drive-axles in a home built boring jig.

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