M1 Extended oil (1 Viewer)

[John E Davies]

In case someone might not be aware of this. WalMart sells Mobil 1 in just about all the grades (except motorcycle specific) in 5 quart jugs for less than $25. So it isn't TOO expensive, especially when you leave it in for the full 15K.

I personally prefer quality dino oil at 3000-50000 intervals with filter, but if I were doing mega-miles of highway cruising I would definitely switch to the Extended Life and leave it in longer.

BTW, The Gold Cap 15W50 is great in high performance motorcycles. It is not specifically rated for them, but is low on moly that will make a wet clutch slip and it sure beats paying $12 per liter for the Motorex 10W50 that my KTM dealer tries to sell.

John Davies

 

[NorCalDoug]

In case someone might not be aware of this. WalMart sells Mobil 1 in just about all the grades (except motorcycle specific) in 5 quart jugs for less than $25. So it isn't TOO expensive, especially when you leave it in for the full 15K.

I personally prefer quality dino oil at 3000-50000 intervals with filter, but if I were doing mega-miles of highway cruising I would definitely switch to the Extended Life and leave it in longer.

BTW, The Gold Cap 15W50 is great in high performance motorcycles. It is not specifically rated for them, but is low on moly that will make a wet clutch slip and it sure beats paying $12 per liter for the Motorex 10W50 that my KTM dealer tries to sell.

John Davies

That's an awfully long interval




never would've thought there'd be oil geeks out there...but I never would've thought I'd ever be a LC geek either...so...

 

[RavenTai]

LT, as for what those #'s mean,

Blackstone takes your oil sample and pretty much burns it, very small particles will burn and a spectrometer will isloate the different colors emitted, elements will have specific wavelength or signature and a amount of each element present in the oil is deduced. Generally large particles will not burn and be read but generally if you have big particles of something you will also have small ones.

The first 6 are major wear elements, the lower the better,
Aluminum from pistons cam bearings etc,
Chromium used as an allowing element in some steel parts
Iron, iron and steel parts, cylinder and ring wear, crank and cam journals, timing chain, gears, valve train etc
Copper, brass, bronze and other alloys that use copper,
Lead, used with other elements in crank and connecting rod bearings
Tin, usually from bearings

All of your wear metal are very low, even for a 1FZ,

one thing I would like to know but have not been able to get is the complete metallurgy of the 1FZ, what alloys are used where, for instance, Is the copper used in the crank bearings or is it from the oil pump bronze bushing? bronze is usually an alloy of copper and tin, is the oil pump bushing the source of the tin or are the crank bearing tin/lead alloy?

The rest are generally elements not from the engine itself. Many come in form oil additives, each brand used a different blend of additives and even in each brand these change over time. Others like silicon come mostly from the environment.

Here is a quick comparison to get you started of a VOA of M1 10w-30EP, your 14.8K report and my latest report using 0w-40 for about 5.5K I wish I had a 15w-50 EP VOA to compare to as it will be slightly different.

                          M1 10w-30 EP VOA        LT 14.8K       RT 5.4K   
ALUMINUM                                              2              2
CHROMIUM                  
IRON                                 1                5              9
COPPER                                                1              1
LEAD                                                  1              5
TIN                                  2                               1
MOLYBDENUM                          76               62             72
NICKEL 
MANGANESE                                             2
SILVER
TITANIUM
POTASSIUM                            1                2               1
BORON                              232               97             139 
SILICON                              4               14               8
SODIUM                               5                5               3
CALCIUM                           3281             2308            3123
MAGNESIUM                           13               11              19
PHOSPHORUS                         791              842             862
ZINC                               958              948            1089
BARIUM

 

[RavenTai]

for another quick comparion and to see why thse guys liek your report take a look at what a GM engine looks like at 15K on mobil one


http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html

 

[landtank]

Thanks RT. I asked over at the other site about this but haven't checked back yet. How often do you guys do the UOAs?

 

[cary]

I did a couple of UOA's (they are on BITOG) when I started running the M1 0w-40 just to make sure the motor didn't have any trouble with 7.5-8k intervals. They came back with very low wear numbers and the M1 had plenty of TBN left at 8k so I quit running them.

As Raventai has eluded to, we have a combination here of a good motor design that it easy on oil, a large sump (bigger sump = longer intervals), and a great oil. This is one reason I am so comfortable recommending 5k intervals on good mineral oils.

Cary

 

[Rookie2]

As usual, that's a great post RT. Are the acceptable levels that should be present for each element posted somewhere?

Thanks,
Rookie2

 

[RavenTai]

As usual, that's a great post RT. Are the acceptable levels that should be present for each element posted somewhere?

Thanks,
Rookie2

best place to look is the universal averages column on the far right, if you are near or below those figures for waer metals you are doing OK,

the averages are a running average for a specific engine.