LX570 Tow Report

[whereiswill]

So this is actually an off the shelf item at my local RV supply store. You may not be able to read the price tag but it cost me about $40 which is about twice what it would have cost if I would have planned more in advance and just gotten it on Amazon. It's about 48 inches long which is way more than I need, but that's just how they sell it. It's the real wiring though, with 10 AWG for the 12V+ and ground, 12 AWG for the brake control wire and 14 AWG for the 4 lighting wires and a quality plug and socket.

 

[SQRRRL]

So this is actually an off the shelf item at my local RV supply store. You may not be able to read the price tag but it cost me about $40 which is about twice what it would have cost if I would have planned more in advance and just gotten it on Amazon. It's about 48 inches long which is way more than I need, but that's just how they sell it. It's the real wiring though, with 10 AWG for the 12V+ and ground, 12 AWG for the brake control wire and 14 AWG for the 4 lighting wires and a quality plug and socket.
View attachment 2134281

 

[pakjoe]

Just signed up after picking up a 2016 LX570. I'll be towing a 22 foot Bambi Sport Airstream. What type of receiver hitch and ball would you recommend (how many inch drop). You mentioned you raised your Airstream. What did you have to do to do that?

 

[TeCKis300]

Sweet. Congratulations on the purchase.

The receiver hitch you purchase will depend on what type of WD (weight distribution) hitch you want to use. The WD hitch head is often integrated with its own drop shank.

For a relatively lightweight 22' Bambi Sport (GVWR 4,500lbs, 422lbs tongue weight), I'd take advantage and use a lighter duty WD hitch. I like the Anderson No-Sway WD hitch which I have previously used with a rental 23D Airstream. I really liked it for the ease of use, quiet, clean looking, grease-less, lightweight, and effectiveness for that weight class of trailer.

For lift, I believe the 22FB has #11 Dexter axles. Dexter makes a bolt on kit (k71-724-04), which is effectively a lift block that goes between the airstream chassis and axle. Reasonably easy install. More info here - Lift Kit on 22' Sport - Airstream Forums

Some other strategies for smaller lift is to upsize the stock tire from a 225/75r15 to 235/75r15 for a small .3" lift (I did this for more tire sidewall for boondocking). Another is to upsize to a 16" wheel with a 225/75r16, for .5" lift. Both strategies often used by Airstreamers.

 

[pakjoe]

Sweet. Congratulations on the purchase.

The receiver hitch you purchase will depend on what type of WD (weight distribution) hitch you want to use. The WD hitch head is often integrated with its own drop shank.

For a relatively lightweight 22' Bambi Sport (GVWR 4,500lbs, 422lbs tongue weight), I'd take advantage and use a lighter duty WD hitch. I like the Anderson No-Sway WD hitch which I have previously used with a rental 23D Airstream. I really liked it for the ease of use, quiet, clean looking, grease-less, lightweight, and effectiveness for that weight class of trailer.

For lift, I believe the 22FB has #11 Dexter axles. Dexter makes a bolt on kit (k71-724-04), which is effectively a lift block that goes between the airstream chassis and axle. Reasonably easy install. More info here - Lift Kit on 22' Sport - Airstream Forums

Some other strategies for smaller lift is to upsize the stock tire from a 225/75r15 to 235/75r15 for a small .3" lift (I did this for more tire sidewall for boondocking). Another is to upsize to a 16" wheel with a 225/75r16, for .5" lift. Both strategies often used by Airstreamers.

Thanks so much for the information. The hitch head does have a drop shank. After I adjust things I'll consider the lift (although I might want to keep the AS stock in hopes of upgrading to a 23 or 25 Globetrotter within the next couple of years). Any other towing tips related to the LX would be appreciated. I read somewhere else about running it in Sport mode to keep it in 4th gear? Is that only an issue climbing steep interstates out west, or in your opinion does that help on any road? What about the height (low, neutral or high)? What settings help the most with gas mileage - or am I kidding myself? lol Thanks again.

 

[TeCKis300]

Running in sport mode is a good idea. The exact gear depends on the overall setup. Your 2016 LX is an 8-speed and I'm assuming is on stock wheels and tires? The 22' Sport has the benefit of being a narrow body which has less aero drag. These things combined suggest S6 might be a good gear for flat running. You might try S7 but if its barely able to hold that on flats and frequently drops to 6th, then 6th is probably the gear you want for torque converter lockup and less heat in the tranny.

In climbing, don't be afraid to shift down. RPMs are your friend, and helps the engine run cooler with less stress (combustion pressures are low with RPM than grunting torque). There's no particular gear you're looking for, as its more about grade and speed. Just keep downshifting to where it feels like you have reasonable engine response. Contrary to popular belief, climbing grades is about HP. 4th will likely be your go to gear, but I wouldn't hesitate to use 3rd on the steep stuff and letting the engine sing around 4000-5000 rpm. Even 2nd, which on the 8-speed is good to just about 60mph.

Height is automatic and doesn't need managing.

Gas mileage, in towing is a game about speed. Keeping a lower pace minimizes aero drag and lost fuel efficiency. Your best MPG is found by keeping speeds ~55 towing. How reasonable that is depends on you. You should see 12-13mpg at that pace. MPG drop precipitously beyond that speed. I keep around 60-65mph.

 

[pakjoe]

My LX has the 21" tires if that makes a difference. BTW - I found good information on the Equal-i-zer® Hitch | The Original Sway Control Hitch website. They have a calculator using key measurements from the LX and the Sport. Looks like I need a different length shank.

 

[FerzLC]

View attachment 2134302

Sorry if I missed it, but what trailer are you pulling with that articulating hitch?

 

[pakjoe]

2019 22' Sport Bambi. Today I had 2" cut off the bottom of the extended shank and had the brake controller installed. Ready to roll.

 

[TeCKis300]

I likewise use an Equalizer hitch. It's a good standard among WD hitch users with probably more in use than any other hitch.

What weight bars did they set you up with?

 

[pakjoe]

Weight bars are 1,000/10,000. The replacement shank I found is a Curt brand 12" long x 8 3/4" drop with a 13" rise. With the 2" or so cut off from the bottom of the shank, it is flush with the bottom of the assembled hitch. It's still lower than I would like, however much better than it was. The trailer sits level. Haven't taken it out to test drive yet. Now to a scale to check out the weight.

 

[pakjoe]

Weight bars are 1,000/10,000. The replacement shank I found is a Curt brand 12" long x 8 3/4" drop with a 13" rise. With the 2" or so cut off from the bottom of the shank, it is flush with the bottom of the assembled hitch. It's still lower than I would like, however much better than it was. The trailer sits level. Haven't taken it out to test drive yet. Now to a scale to check out the weight.

I likewise use an Equalizer hitch. It's a good standard among WD hitch users with probably more in use than any other hitch.

What weight bars did they set you up with?

Last evening I took the LX/Airstream combo to a CAT scale. If you would, help me think through the result. The front of the LX weighed in at 3280 lbs., the rear LX axle AND trailer (on same scale) came in at 7,520 lbs. combined. I went through a 2nd time and weighed just the trailer - it came in at 3,580 lbs. with just 200 lbs added to the trailer (20 gallons of fresh water and 2 full propane tanks) - no other gear that we usually take. It's hard to see in the photo, but the back of the trailer frame is about 2" lower than the front (measured on the tongue). My thought it will sit down some more, in spite of the AHC, with more weight in the LX cargo area and 200 lbs. of assorted supplies under the trailer bed (located front center). I drove it on the interstate as well as 4 lane city streets & 2 lane winding roads (mild hills). Semis passing me on the interstate did not bother the LX whatsoever. Thoughts or suggestions?

 

[TeCKis300]

Based upon the two sets of measurements, here's what I'm distilling for your setup

Front: 3280 lbs
Rear: 3940 lbs
Net vehicle: 7220 lbs
Trailer: 3580 lbs
Total Rig: 10,800 lbs

From other posts, here's stock LX weights (empty):
Front: 3180 lbs
Rear: 3080 lbs
Total: 6260 lbs

Here's stock axle weight ratings:
Front Gross Axle Weight Rating: 3595 lbs
Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating: 4300 lbs
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating: 7385 lbs

By all measures, you're sitting pretty. Your WD tension seems to be properly setup and well adjusted, returning good front axle restoration weight (FALR). Best test as you've confirmed is driving stability. If it feels good, you are good to go.

The LX will not squat with more weight in the boot. AHC is pretty robust and will maintain constant height with the weights you're at.

Ideally, your trailer would sit level front to back. 2" rake is not bad unless you really want to dial it in. Or you find yourself dragging the rear of your trailer, which is not uncommon for Airstreams as they sit lower, and you want that clearance back. Easy button IMO is to upsize the tire or wheel as mentioned earlier. Another somewhat easy button is to do an .5" AHC sensor lift to the front of the LX. By leveling the LX ride heights front to rear, it'll bring down the hitch ball a tad.

Beautiful rig btw!

 

[pakjoe]

Based upon the two sets of measurements, here's what I'm distilling for your setup

Front: 3280 lbs
Rear: 3940 lbs
Net vehicle: 7220 lbs
Trailer: 3580 lbs
Total Rig: 10,800 lbs

From other posts, here's stock LX weights (empty):
Front: 3180 lbs
Rear: 3080 lbs
Total: 6260 lbs

Here's stock axle weight ratings:
Front Gross Axle Weight Rating: 3595 lbs
Rear Gross Axle Weight Rating: 4300 lbs
Gross Vehicle Weight Rating: 7385 lbs

By all measures, you're sitting pretty. Your WD tension seems to be properly setup and well adjusted, returning good front axle restoration weight (FALR). Best test as you've confirmed is driving stability. If it feels good, you are good to go.

The LX will not squat with more weight in the boot. AHC is pretty robust and will maintain constant height with the weights you're at.

Ideally, your trailer would sit level front to back. 2" rake is not bad unless you really want to dial it in. Or you find yourself dragging the rear of your trailer, which is not uncommon for Airstreams as they sit lower, and you want that clearance back. Easy button IMO is to upsize the tire or wheel as mentioned earlier. Another somewhat easy button is to do an .5" AHC sensor lift to the front of the LX. By leveling the LX ride heights front to rear, it'll bring down the hitch ball a tad.

Beautiful rig btw!

Thanks for your response. Appreciate it! Looking at the numbers can I assume my tongue weight is the difference between my rear axle weight of 3940 less the stock rear axle weight = 860 lbs? Or am I not looking at that correctly?

 

[TeCKis300]

860lbs would be the upper bound possibility, but I don't think it's all your tongue weight?

Depends on what you had in the LX when you measured on the scale. Yourself, passengers, gear? Hitch itself is probably 60lbs.

 

[linuxgod]

If you wanted to level the trailer more you might need a taller drop shank. That's what I ultimately had to do. I'm within 1/2" of level normally - slightly higher in the front of the trailer with an "empty" trailer and nothing in the trunk of the LC, or about 1/2" low in the front when I'm loaded to the gills.

That said I know the LX will lower a bit on the highway so at highway speeds it might not be quite as noticeable.

 

[AZExplorer]

General consensus to turn OFF trailer sway control when using a WD anti sway hitch? See that is recommended a few other places. I picked up the redarc tow pro, but don't have an extra spot to install it! May have to go with another system or get creative.

 

[TeCKis300]

General consensus to turn OFF trailer sway control when using a WD anti sway hitch? See that is recommended a few other places. I picked up the redarc tow pro, but don't have an extra spot to install it! May have to go with another system or get creative.

Not sure I understand the question? What do you mean by turning off trailer sway control? Is that turning off stability control of the tow vehicle?

 

[AZExplorer]

Yes, I believe it would be deactivated by holding it down for three seconds when not moving. After researching a bit more, sounds like general consensus is to leave on as it shouldn't ever actually activate with proper set up. My neighbor recommended it off, which seemed counterintuitive so started researching. There was a manufacture that recommended shutting it off, but I have no idea the dynamics behind why.

was reading some posts here: F150 sway control setting ON or OFF - Jayco RV Owners Forum - https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f37/f150-sway-control-setting-on-or-off-70994.html

 

[linuxgod]

Leave it on. If you're driving in heavy rain and start to hydroplane (or slip on snow or ice), it will evenly apply the brakes to keep you from spinning out of control. On dry pavement it does nothing.

I assume that manufacturer was concerned that this could cause the trailer brakes to lock up and hydroplane, or the pulsing might cause some other unwanted behavior?