LX570 Tow Report

[yotanewb]

I think you can see above that I'm at 15,620lbs combined doing my longest 3k mile trip to Yellowstone for SoCal with an extended family of 6. Over some of the largest mountain ranges and highest speed stretches through Arizona. She did great and I have no desire for any other tow rig from a towing perspective with no lack for power, stability, or towing smoothness. Agility is exemplary towing longer trailers. Add to that, no other single vehicle will do what the 200-series will do with room for 8. Off-roads like a beast. Coddles the family in 4-zone A/C, Mark Levinson audio, and leather lined luxury.

A shortcoming as others have mentioned is MPG, but more specifically range. ~10MPG is the norm towing that size trailer. She'll hold 80MPH easily (with a well dialed in WD hitch) provided you're willing to allow her to drink at 7MPG. Honestly those numbers come with the territory for every tow vehicle towing larger trailers. The factory tank size is on par with just about every other 1/2-ton save for the Tundra and Ford that have extended capacity tanks. With a stock rig with HT tires, 230mi range at reasonable speeds works fine and I did that for a number of years.

The 200-series can be fitted with an aftermarket LRA aux tank which handily solves that issue for a combined capacity of 38G. Range of 500mi solo or 300mi towing in my setup with larger 35s.

I have no doubt about the other capabilities besides towing. I have my 100 Series Cruiser that I’m in love with.
As far as MPGs go, my EcoBoost F150 does 9-11 towing so I’m good with that and my 100 does 13 on a good day with a tailwind so MPGs aren’t really my issue.
It’s stability and not putting my family or anyone else in danger.
Sounds like from your experience, I should be good to go.
I think my plan is buy a 570, sell the 100 and hang on to the paid off truck. Do some testing with the 200 and if all goes well, sell the truck and pay off the balance I’ll have on the 570.
Thanks for all the info! Really really appreciate it

 

[TeCKis300]

I have no doubt about the other capabilities besides towing. I have my 100 Series Cruiser that I’m in love with.
As far as MPGs go, my EcoBoost F150 does 9-11 towing so I’m good with that and my 100 does 13 on a good day with a tailwind so MPGs aren’t really my issue.
It’s stability and not putting my family or anyone else in danger.
Sounds like from your experience, I should be good to go.
I think my plan is buy a 570, sell the 100 and hang on to the paid off truck. Do some testing with the 200 and if all goes well, sell the truck and pay off the balance I’ll have on the 570.
Thanks for all the info! Really really appreciate it

Agreed and never worth putting the family at risk. Stock and setup right, the rig is uber stable. On account of its significant mass and big bones.

Honestly all my mods should generally make towing worst. Because of that, I did everything in incremental fashion to respect the limits. I only modded (for offroad performance) when I was absolutely convinced the rig towed solidly, that I continued to build it on 33s and 35s, and with more incremental weight. Always with proper supporting mods including brakes and re-gearing.

I've helped another buddy setup an identical rig and he tows a similar Airstream 27FB with a 2008 LX570. He's happy.

 

[wa3ren]

aden weights with no accessories or gear. It is well known in the AS community that Airstreams specs are very much on the light end. While I don't have actual weights (yet), those who have, generally report tongue weight in excess of 1000lbs, and trailer weight about 10-20% more.

Fantastic review. Very helpful. Many thanks!

 

[skrypj]

I have no doubt about the other capabilities besides towing. I have my 100 Series Cruiser that I’m in love with.
As far as MPGs go, my EcoBoost F150 does 9-11 towing so I’m good with that and my 100 does 13 on a good day with a tailwind so MPGs aren’t really my issue.
It’s stability and not putting my family or anyone else in danger.
Sounds like from your experience, I should be good to go.
I think my plan is buy a 570, sell the 100 and hang on to the paid off truck. Do some testing with the 200 and if all goes well, sell the truck and pay off the balance I’ll have on the 570.
Thanks for all the info! Really really appreciate it

I towed my 5500 lb GVWR trailer/24' length, around 800 miles on our first camping trip with the LX570. We were in 20-30mph winds the entire way there.

When I got there I realized the WDH bars were only barely engaged due to the self leveling function of the suspension which unloaded the bars when it leveled out. I had to readjust the hitch head to get some more tension back in them. I had no idea at all while I was towing. It handled it no problem.

I also had an F150, in my case it was a 2014 Ecoboost Supercrew 6.5' bed that weighed 6200 lbs empty and had a 157" wheelbase. Other than being a little twitchier due to the shorter wheelbase, I would say the LX570 actually handles the trailer better than the F150 did. The 5 link rear suspension, load leveling, and adjustable dampening really lock everything down. The F150 needed Bilstein shocks and a Hellwig rear sway bar to be on par with the LX570, especially on twistier mountain passes. With those two mods I would say they were about even.

The Ecoboost, even the older 2014 with the lower power and torque ratings, had more grunt in the 2000-3500 rpm range for sure. Thats probably due to my elevation at 6500' where the 5.7L is taking a 20% hit due to the thin air. Thats not to say the 5.7L can't do it, but there was certainly more overhead in the F150.

 

[TeCKis300]

I towed my 5500 lb GVWR trailer/24' length, around 800 miles on our first camping trip with the LX570. We were in 20-30mph winds the entire way there.

When I got there I realized the WDH bars were only barely engaged due to the self leveling function of the suspension which unloaded the bars when it leveled out. I had to readjust the hitch head to get some more tension back in them. I had no idea at all while I was towing. It handled it no problem.

I also had an F150, in my case it was a 2014 Ecoboost Supercrew 6.5' bed that weighed 6200 lbs empty and had a 157" wheelbase. Other than being a little twitchier due to the shorter wheelbase, I would say the LX570 actually handles the trailer better than the F150 did. The 5 link rear suspension, load leveling, and adjustable dampening really lock everything down. The F150 needed Bilstein shocks and a Hellwig rear sway bar to be on par with the LX570, especially on twistier mountain passes. With those two mods I would say they were about even.

The Ecoboost, even the older 2014 with the lower power and torque ratings, had more grunt in the 2000-3500 rpm range for sure. Thats probably due to my elevation at 6500' where the 5.7L is taking a 20% hit due to the thin air. Thats not to say the 5.7L can't do it, but there was certainly more overhead in the F150.

Great feedback and it only reinforces what I've experienced with the LX. You may have already done so, but a couple other fine adjustments could see any remaining twitchiness go away - 1. Increasing tire pressure 3-5 PSI over unladen 2. Dial in a hint more WD tension. My LX doesn't move a bit when passing big rigs going the same direction or coming opposite on single lane highways. Passing bull nose busses at higher speeds will have the slightest hint of pushing the trailer away when the nose of the trailer is even, and sucking in when the tail passes. Never any hint of sway. Then again, that could be a quality of the trailer I have with rounded corners.

I hang out with all too may F150 owners. They've always wondered how the unassuming LX does what it does, with a bigger trailer. Raptors included that have a 5-link rear like ours, but they have really soft non-compensating springs.

 

[skrypj]

Great feedback and it only reinforces what I've experienced with the LX. You may have already done so, but a couple other fine adjustments could see any remaining twitchiness go away - 1. Increasing tire pressure 3-5 PSI over unladen 2. Dial in a hint more WD tension. My LX doesn't move a bit when passing big rigs going the same direction or coming opposite on single lane highways. Passing bull nose busses at higher speeds will have the slightest hint of pushing the trailer away when the nose of the trailer is even, and sucking in when the tail passes. Never any hint of sway. Then again, that could be a quality of the trailer I have with rounded corners.

I hang out with all too may F150 owners. They've always wondered how the unassuming LX does what it does, with a bigger trailer. Raptors included that have a 5-link rear like ours, but they have really soft non-compensating springs.

The rear swaybar on the F150 was a massive improvement for me. Probably the single best mod I ever did and I was mad I didn’t do it years earlier once I got it on.

The factory F150 shocks are also like marshmallows too, with very little rebound damping. I had the rear of my truck hop off a bridge joint on a freeway on ramp so hard once that I almost spun doing 55 mph. Scared the crap out of me and I think I ordered Bilsteins as soon as I got my laptop open.

Those 2 mods improve the F150 dramatically.

 

[TeCKis300]

The rear swaybar on the F150 was a massive improvement for me. Probably the single best mod I ever did and I was mad I didn’t do it years earlier once I got it on.

The factory F150 shocks are also like marshmallows too, with very little rebound damping. I had the rear of my truck hop off a bridge joint on a freeway on ramp so hard once that I almost spun doing 55 mph. Scared the crap out of me and I think I ordered Bilsteins as soon as I got my laptop open.

Those 2 mods improve the F150 dramatically.

I mentioned in another thread that I had broke my rear swaybar endlink on an off-road trip. Then had to tow 80 miles home over mountains roads with steep and curvy routes sans rear swaybar. That had me concerned going into it. Pleasantly surprised she still towed with great confidence as AHC does its part for stability and sway resistance.

The 2nd gen and 3rd gen Raptors got Livewire shocks, similar in concept to Adaptive Variable Suspension (AVS) dampers in the LX. My buddy that had top shelf Kings on his 1st gen Raptor, really likes the Livewire system on his 2nd and 3rd gen Raptor more. As well as the Kings do in Baja type running, they weren't in their element on-road, with tuning prioritized for off-road. That's where Livewire really helped as it could dial in for different uses, like our AVS.

That only solves part of it as when the F150s tow, they sag with significant tongue weights. The Raptor seems to sag more than the std F150s. Another bonus of AHC.

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

I feel like I am towing a bit more modestly than some. Sold the Class A recently, and picked up a travel trailer yesterday. The LX tows ~6,200lbs like a champ...sure chugs fuel though! Will report back after towing the big hills in the Rocky Mountains.

 

[ROMR NTX]

I feel like I am towing a bit more modestly than some. Sold the Class A recently, and picked up a travel trailer yesterday. The LX tows ~6,200lbs like a champ...sure chugs fuel though! Will report back after towing the big hills in the Rocky Mountains.

View attachment 3641013

WHat model of WD hitch is that?


Also, @TeCKis300 can you be more specific on the model of yours?

 

[TeCKis300]

WHat model of WD hitch is that?


Also, @TeCKis300 can you be more specific on the model of yours?

I'm running an Equalizer 1000 hitch.

 

[ROMR NTX]

I'm running an Equalizer 1000 hitch.

View attachment 3678725

Thanks!

do you know the difference between that one and this one that seems like similar specs for $200 less?

https://www.amazon.com/Equal-i-zer-Progress-90-00-1000-10K-Hitch/dp/B004TR8F5C?tag=ihco-20&th=1

 

[skrypj]

Thanks!

do you know the difference between that one and this one that seems like similar specs for $200 less?

https://www.amazon.com/Equal-i-zer-Progress-90-00-1000-10K-Hitch/dp/B004TR8F5C?tag=ihco-20&th=1

That looks to be an Equal-i-zer 1000, but it does not include the 2 15/16" ball. If you want the ball you need this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Equal-i-zer-Progress-90-00-1000-10K-Hitch/dp/B01MAWXHHO?tag=ihco-20&th=1

I would see if you can find a used one if you wanna save a few bucks. There are like 5 for sale at any time here locally.

I also run an Equal-i-zer 1000 lb and its great. Ive put about 30,000 miles on it and its always kept my trailer super stable. That said, looking at that one in your link, you may need more drop on the shank. The receiver on the 200 series sits super high, higher than my F150 and GX460 did. I have to run my shank at the lowest setting and even then Its still a little high with my larger tires. I bought a new shank with more drop for when I finally sensor lift my truck.

 

[TeCKis300]

That looks to be an Equal-i-zer 1000, but it does not include the 2 15/16" ball. If you want the ball you need this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Equal-i-zer-Progress-90-00-1000-10K-Hitch/dp/B01MAWXHHO?tag=ihco-20&th=1

I would see if you can find a used one if you wanna save a few bucks. There a like 5 for sale at any time here locally.

I also run an Equal-i-zer 1000 lb and its great. Ive put about 30,000 miles on it and its always kept my trailer super stable. That said, looking at that one in your link, you may need more drop on the shank. The receiver on the 200 series sits super high, higher than my F150 and GX460 did. I have to run my shank at the lowest setting and even then Its still a little high with my larger tires. I bought a new shank with more drop for when I finally sensor lift my truck.

Yup to everything there.

 

[ROMR NTX]

That looks to be an Equal-i-zer 1000, but it does not include the 2 15/16" ball. If you want the ball you need this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Equal-i-zer-Progress-90-00-1000-10K-Hitch/dp/B01MAWXHHO?tag=ihco-20&th=1

I would see if you can find a used one if you wanna save a few bucks. There are like 5 for sale at any time here locally.

I also run an Equal-i-zer 1000 lb and its great. Ive put about 30,000 miles on it and its always kept my trailer super stable. That said, looking at that one in your link, you may need more drop on the shank. The receiver on the 200 series sits super high, higher than my F150 and GX460 did. I have to run my shank at the lowest setting and even then Its still a little high with my larger tires. I bought a new shank with more drop for when I finally sensor lift my truck.

Awsome info.

I guess where I'm curious was is the ball the only difference, for $180. And then is there something different about these where they need a special ball, because I have a few laying around.

Regarding the shank, kind of the same question. Should most any drop shank mate up to this ok?

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

WHat model of WD hitch is that?


Also, @TeCKis300 can you be more specific on the model of yours?

It's a "Pro Series 49904 RB3" . It works great. I've added a friction device / anti-sway (just in case). There are lot's of great options out there.

Subsequent to my last post, I've towed all over the Canadian Rockies, and I have no concerns pulling the fully loaded Grand Designs 2400BH up the 93 north / 93 south, and frankly any place I want to access by road. I'll probably upgrade the trailer suspension prior to taking her to some of my preferred boon-docking spots on the forestry trunk roads.

 

[skrypj]

Awsome info.

I guess where I'm curious was is the ball the only difference, for $180. And then is there something different about these where they need a special ball, because I have a few laying around.

Regarding the shank, kind of the same question. Should most any drop shank mate up to this ok?

No AFAIK its a normal 2-15/16's ball, I think you just gotta make sure the threaded portion is the right size?

I believe its also supposed to be torqued to some insane amount. Like 250-300 ft-lbs.

As for the shank, the holes need to be the right distance apart to line up with the holes on the tilt head. IDK what that distance is offhand or if its some universally accepted hole spacing. The 2" shanks are 2" on both the horizontal and vertical portion.

 

[linuxgod]

It's a "Pro Series 49904 RB3" . It works great. I've added a friction device / anti-sway (just in case). There are lot's of great options out there.

Subsequent to my last post, I've towed all over the Canadian Rockies, and I have no concerns pulling the fully loaded Grand Designs 2400BH up the 93 north / 93 south, and frankly any place I want to access by road. I'll probably upgrade the trailer suspension prior to taking her to some of my preferred boon-docking spots on the forestry trunk roads.

I had a pro series with that friction anti-sway. I thought it worked well but when I went to my BlueOx hitch it was night and day. I would not go back to a friction anti-sway.

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

I had a pro series with that friction anti-sway. I thought it worked well but when I went to my BlueOx hitch it was night and day. I would not go back to a friction anti-sway.

Yeah, it came with the trailer. Works fine. I've used a BlueOx in the past and it works well too. I'm sure there are many others that are superior to what I have, but it ain't broke.

 

[TeCKis300]

I believe its also supposed to be torqued to some insane amount. Like 250-300 ft-lbs.

450 ft-lbs

 

[linuxgod]

Yeah, it came with the trailer. Works fine. I've used a BlueOx in the past and it works well too. I'm sure there are many others that are superior to what I have, but it ain't broke.

Yeah I got my blueox when I bought a new trailer because I needed heavier WD bars and sold the old hitch with my old one. Anti-sway works way better on the blueox but one thing I really hated on the pro series was that the anti-sway would bind up if I made it too tight and took a hard turn and then traction control would light up because it perceived that the vehicle was sliding or being dragged.