LX470 Refresh (1 Viewer)

[ike84]

windshield replacement is in the works. the truck is garage bound until things get sorted so I wont let things get any worse. i'm up for a lot of stuff but im having a local ABRA shop do the glass. we talked out all the details. they've not done an lc/lx before but they understand what needs to be done and they are gonna work with lexus to get all oem parts (and hopefully insurance picks up the full tab).

techstream is coming up. ive got a dongle and the software downloaded. just need some time to fire it up. i'm curious about tech stream - what can it do? just diagnostics or is it also a programming tool. asking becuase we're gonna need some spare keys and im trying to figure out how i will handle a "full" ecu registry if that occurs.

about that black box - it actually is factory. it's the control module for the invisoin head rest display units. i think that box is supposed to be burried in the center console, which is why noone sees it. i can see that some jack has been in there because, again, lots of missing faseneters on the center console. i'm really confused becuase i have an 08 escalade with the exact same setup and i have never seen those boxes before. i was a bit blown away that lexus just routes the cords out in the open like that but se la vie.

in terms of the seat motors, it turns out the forward/reverse tilt is controlled by two worm drive motors. plastic on metal of course. to replace them i am gonna need to pull the seat cushion off the frame big thats not too big of a deal becuase I want to get them recovered. finding the motors may be tricky though - aisin has discontinued them i think. i found a used-like new one on amazon for $80 which is pretty aswesomme considering that all the others are $400+. i'll keep looking for another one. if any forum members have one for sale, hit me up.

i also had some time to read through the manual today and i have a question. when i pushed the center diff lock button with the truck on, i didn't notice any dash lights come on. the book says that shouldnt be the case though. i plan on tearing into the dash to install a vais bluetooth controller and will look at the wiring while i'm in there. hopefully the switch is just disconnected. i'm guessing theres going to be more to it though.

i do need some advice from the group. with as much stuff as I have found half assed, what are the thoughts about tearing into the timing system? im not worried about the belts (replaced 15k ago) as much as i am the pulleys. the serpentine tensioner and idler pulleys look original, so im guessing the timing pulleys will be as well. if that's the case, how often do they fail? would it be worth it to do a full timing job at this point? or wait until the 90k mark.

speaking of half assed - check out the pic below. inside of belly pan - spare parts?!?

also, this is random (noob question) but I couldnt help but notice a phallic looking post staring at me from underneath the front of the engine. i beleive it is "tensioner assembly, chain no 1". what the heck does that do?

 

[AARONTLC]

windshield replacement is in the works. the truck is garage bound until things get sorted so I wont let things get any worse. i'm up for a lot of stuff but im having a local ABRA shop do the glass. we talked out all the details. they've not done an lc/lx before but they understand what needs to be done and they are gonna work with lexus to get all oem parts (and hopefully insurance picks up the full tab).

techstream is coming up. ive got a dongle and the software downloaded. just need some time to fire it up. i'm curious about tech stream - what can it do? just diagnostics or is it also a programming tool. asking becuase we're gonna need some spare keys and im trying to figure out how i will handle a "full" ecu registry if that occurs.

about that black box - it actually is factory. it's the control module for the invisoin head rest display units. i think that box is supposed to be burried in the center console, which is why noone sees it. i can see that some jack has been in there because, again, lots of missing faseneters on the center console. i'm really confused becuase i have an 08 escalade with the exact same setup and i have never seen those boxes before. i was a bit blown away that lexus just routes the cords out in the open like that but se la vie.

in terms of the seat motors, it turns out the forward/reverse tilt is controlled by two worm drive motors. plastic on metal of course. to replace them i am gonna need to pull the seat cushion off the frame big thats not too big of a deal becuase I want to get them recovered. finding the motors may be tricky though - aisin has discontinued them i think. i found a used-like new one on amazon for $80 which is pretty aswesomme considering that all the others are $400+. i'll keep looking for another one. if any forum members have one for sale, hit me up.

i also had some time to read through the manual today and i have a question. when i pushed the center diff lock button with the truck on, i didn't notice any dash lights come on. the book says that shouldnt be the case though. i plan on tearing into the dash to install a vais bluetooth controller and will look at the wiring while i'm in there. hopefully the switch is just disconnected. i'm guessing theres going to be more to it though.

i do need some advice from the group. with as much stuff as I have found half assed, what are the thoughts about tearing into the timing system? im not worried about the belts (replaced 15k ago) as much as i am the pulleys. the serpentine tensioner and idler pulleys look original, so im guessing the timing pulleys will be as well. if that's the case, how often do they fail? would it be worth it to do a full timing job at this point? or wait until the 90k mark.

speaking of half assed - check out the pic below. inside of belly pan - spare parts?!?

also, this is random (noob question) but I couldnt help but notice a phallic looking post staring at me from underneath the front of the engine. i beleive it is "tensioner assembly, chain no 1". what the heck does that do?
View attachment 3786664
View attachment 3786661

Timing belt tensioner.

Ball joint boot?

Front differential drain plug washer?

 

[Bisho]

“i also had some time to read through the manual today and i have a question. when i pushed the center diff lock button with the truck on, i didn't notice any dash lights come on. the book says that shouldnt be the case though.”

You can check if it’s actually functioning. Do you hear a click, indicating the actuator is engaging on the transfer case. If it hasn’t been used in a while, it may be sticky and take a while to engage and disengage while you are moving. Changing the transfer case fluid with a good synthetic can help free things up.

When engaged you’ll notice the turn radius isn’t as tight and there will be a bit of binding at full turn. You want to check this on dirt or gravel. Often times the system is functioning, but the indicator switch on the transfer case is bad. It’s an inexpensive part, if that’s the case.

 

[ike84]

... Often times the system is functioning, but the indicator switch on the transfer case is bad. It’s an inexpensive part, if that’s the case.

Thats fantastic info, thank you. Does the engine need to be running to engage the system?

New license plate housing installed today to replace for a cracked light housing. From what I can tell, these are specific to the LXs and maybe only the later models? I could t find anywhere that sells just the light housing and couldn't even find a part number on partsouq, so ordered a used assembly on eBay. The proper way to remove that panel would be to remove the tailgate trim and pinch together/pop out the multiple little white tabs that hold the assembly to the tailgate. We didn't need to do that because all the tabs were busted except 1 and it was really the license plate itself holding it on. To access the bulbs in the assembly you remove the 10mm nut and the light cover swings out and slides up. You may be able to get to that nut from I side the tailgate to just change the bulbs, if I ever need to change the bulbs I would start there before pulling the whole thing off.

 

[Bisho]

Thats fantastic info, thank you. Does the engine need to be running to engage the system?

New license plate housing installed today to replace for a cracked light housing. From what I can tell, these are specific to the LXs and maybe only the later models? I could t find anywhere that sells just the light housing and couldn't even find a part number on partsouq, so ordered a used assembly on eBay. The proper way to remove that panel would be to remove the tailgate trim and pinch together/pop out the multiple little white tabs that hold the assembly to the tailgate. We didn't need to do that because all the tabs were busted except 1 and it was really the license plate itself holding it on. To access the bulbs in the assembly you remove the 10mm nut and the light cover swings out and slides up. You may be able to get to that nut from I side the tailgate to just change the bulbs, if I ever need to change the bulbs I would start there before pulling the whole thing off.View attachment 3787645View attachment 3787644View attachment 3787646

Yes on the engine running. If it hasn’t been used in a while I recommend engaging while you are moving in relatively straight path.

 

[Slap Back]

With my 07 LX, the light wouldn't come on but I could definitely tell the diff locked when I pushed the button. I took the sensor out and noticed that the electrical connector was dirty. So instead of replacing, I just cleaned everything with MAF cleaner, put it all back together and the light worked. Pretty easy fix.

 

[ike84]

Thanks for the feedback on the diff. New SE sor ordered.

I had a few minutes free today so wanted to check the PCV valve. How does 5 minutes turn into 2 hours of work, you ask?

Perfect time to do Paul's sai intake filter mod.

 

[Malleus]

If you're cleaning the connector housings, use CRC QD Plastic Safe Electronic Cleaner. MAF cleaner will eat the plastic.

 

[Malleus]

Techstream is a diagnostic and options setting tool (you can call that programming, but I don't). AFAIK, it won't flash new keys. @Mauser would know for sure.

 

[2001LC]

Thanks for the feedback on the diff. New SE sor ordered.

I had a few minutes free today so wanted to check the PCV valve. How does 5 minutes turn into 2 hours of work, you ask?

Perfect time to do Paul's sai intake filter mod.
View attachment 3788028

If you can't find an intake manifold locally. PM/DM me, and I'll hunt in my storage for one.

 

[Mauser]

Techstream is a diagnostic and options setting tool (you can call that programming, but I don't). AFAIK, it won't flash new keys. @Mauser would know for sure.

As long as you have a master key you can add and delete keys with Techstream. If no master on 03+ you can reset the immobiliser onboard using Techstream. A passcode is required. It is generated from a 96 character seed code provided by the ecu. You also need a passcode calculator, or use the one online.

 

[Slap Back]

If you're cleaning the connector housings, use CRC QD Plastic Safe Electronic Cleaner. MAF cleaner will eat the plastic.
View attachment 3788041

Yes! That's what I was looking for but couldn't find at the time. I know I have a can somewhere. I'll probably find it when I'm NOT looking for it. lol

 

[ike84]

Good point about the cleaners. Plastic accidents are no bueno.

Question about the PCV hose routing. It's easy enough to source a 3/8" barb, drill out the old, and replace with the new. First thoughts were to add an oil catch in line, as I hate putting dirty air back in the intake. Second thought was to just vent through can or directly to atmosphere.

So question for the group - has anyone vented the PCV to atmosphere instead of vacuum on a 2uz-fe? Any issues with oil burns? I know some engines are really sensitive to this, others not so much.

Also, why does the OEM PCV hose have an outer coating of insulation? That seems unnecessary.

 

[2001LC]

Often I get DM/PM questions, better asked & answered in public forums: Here's one:

"Hi there. My name is Ike. I just wanted to message you and say thanks for everything you've contributed to the forum. I've learned a ton from your posts and truly appreciate your knowledge and advice.

Also, thank you for the offer on the intake. I'll fiddle with what I've got but I will definitely let you know if I it doesn't work out.

I think you would be a great person to ask this to - if you were in my position, with the timing belts done 15k mi ago but a lot of signs of bad workmanship elsewhere, would you tear into the timing system at this point? Or would you let it ride and monitor for overt signs of issues, with plans on r/r everything in 75k miles? I tried to figure out how often timing failures come from the pulleys or water pumps versus the belts themselves going bad, but wasn't able to find much other than anecdotal experience .

Best wishes,
Ike

------------------
Hi Ike,

Depends on what concern is. Belts themselves, are usually fine.

If T-belt service done at dealership, you can get parts list of what used. i.e. Belt & water pump only, is typical at dealerships. You can remove serp belt and listen for bad bearing of the T-belt pulleys, which they tend to not replace. Tensioner itself, can easily be removed and tested.

The most, often a concern:

1) Tensioner pulley bolt threads, not sealed. Resulting in oil leak. We can just wait, until next scheduled service.

2) Crankshaft seal, replaced and leaking. Factory seal rarely leak. But so many remove & replace (R&R) them (I do not, if not leaking). Often resulting in a leak. Again, we can just wait.

3) Wire housing for the crank sensor & oil sending unit route wrong. Tie or tuck away from serp belt, until next time fan bracket out.

Fan bracket is a concern also, which stethoscope is helpful tool for. I R&R fan bracket, is of slightest concern during T-belt. If as concerning at this time. A mechanically inclined driver, that listen to engine & inspect periodically. Will know, when ones is failing or has failed. But those not so inclined, and listen to radio instead. May go to totally failure and still keep driving. This can result in engine burning up, even in the winter

We may also get oil pump O-ring or cam shaft(s) seal leak. These, are totally different services. But do require T-belt removal to access. So, we'd evaluate to determine if a must now, or monitor and wait until in there.

If any oil leaks in front of engine. Determine what is leaking, is first step. Minor we live with until day, we're in there. Some we add AT-205 to see if it benefits.

I'll add one oil leak everyone R&R gaskets and seals. Most needlessly! Head covers leaks.

I've been 100% successful, stopping leaks. Just be re-torquing head cover bolts in 4.7L. In those that still had factory installed. I use a 1/4" digital torque wrench, set to 53INCH-lbf making two passes in a X pattern. As of today, in over 100 4.7L, I’ve re-torqued. No leakage, has yet reoccurred. They only ones I've had to replace, were R&R before my hand touched. This works until it doesn't. At which time I would R&R gaskets and seals.

Regards,

Paul.

 

[2001LC]

Good point about the cleaners. Plastic accidents are no bueno.

Question about the PCV hose routing. It's easy enough to source a 3/8" barb, drill out the old, and replace with the new. First thoughts were to add an oil catch in line, as I hate putting dirty air back in the intake. Second thought was to just vent through can or directly to atmosphere.

So question for the group - has anyone vented the PCV to atmosphere instead of vacuum on a 2uz-fe? Any issues with oil burns? I know some engines are really sensitive to this, others not so much.

Also, why does the OEM PCV hose have an outer coating of insulation? That seems unnecessary.

Tip: Whenever removing a rubber hose, especially from plastic nipples. Do not pull on hose. Which then, acts like a, chinese finger torture trap!
I first grab hose gently over fitting/nipple it's on. I use channel-locks (CL), if hose doesn't twist by hand easily. I very lightly gripping hose over fitting/nipple w/CL. Lightly twisting hose, slightly back and forth, until hose breaks from nipple/fitting (twist easily) bond. Then push hose off fittings/nipple, from back side (end of hose), not pulling off a stuck hose..

Busted hose nipples:
For air pipe, i've: I find a single barbed (enlarged round end) or no barb brass fitting w/male pipe thread. Similar to what OEM is in shape. That fits the factory hose sung. I then drill and tap air pipe, where fitting broke off. Then just thread on new fitting/nipple (thread sealer/glue/FIPG can be used)

I've not tired this on the intake manifold. One issue, is plastic burs from drilling or while using tap to thread, falling into intake manifold. We need to get those all out.

Oil catch can:
Is fine, and you see some in mud. I was one of this first to float the idea here. But, I've never added one. Why; The 1 million mile 4.7L didn't have one. It's rings, valve, valve guides, cylinder all in perfect condition. So I saw, no need to modify.

We want PCV hose attached to intake manifold. It create negative pressure in crankcase and heads. Thus reducing oil leaks. It also works in theory, with balance of manifold vacuum PSI. It also send oil vapors to be burned, perhaps even some lubricating benefits. In any case, this is one of the best engineered engine ever and they all have PCV valve run directly to intake.

VVTi is newer add to the 4.7L 2UZ, and more about reduction of pollution, which S.A.I. is all about. S.A.I. is new as VVt to the 4.7L (2006-07 in 100 series). The filter of S.A.I. is a recognised (TBS on the newer GX) failure point. We mod w/ replaceable filter as I do (save long term PM cost) or replace they S.A.I. pump as PM (very costly in long run. The Hewitt S.A.I block off, is not and option for street legal vehicles. It's for off-road use only. One must trailer build rig until off public streets, HWY and roads. This includes county maintained roads, so many use when off-road.

The foam on PCV:
On hose, helps reduce condensation, as does the foam cover over PCV valve.

Note: Over the years of service & restore work, I've done on 100 series. I've learned to keep as much of the factory parts in place that I can, what parts should be replaced or modified, and extra PM we should do. Most is written about in my Master Thread. More experience, in newest posting. But even some of that is out of date. As I've changed with time or tool-up better for.

 

[ike84]

Thanks for the reply Paul. That nipple a tually snapped as I was wedging the hose off gently with a screwdriver. Japanese plastic maybe not the best?

I'm starting to think the truck is cursed though. I pulled the head unit to install vais by receiver. To my surprise there was a btoy45 already installed but not functioning because the dim switches were set incorrectly. I should have just stopped there but I wanted to to install the vais. Long story short the head unit is now shorting out and causing all sorts of electrical gremlins. Tilt and telescopic motors on steering wheels stopped, some dash lights not showing up, head unit display flickering or off completely.

Time to get the kids into bed so more will have to wait until tomorrow. I'm hoping that nothing is fried.

 

[2001LC]

Thanks for the reply Paul. That nipple a tually snapped as I was wedging the hose off gently with a screwdriver. Japanese plastic maybe not the best?

I've R&R dozens of the PCV DS hoses, from plastic nipple of the VVT intake manifold. Trick is to break bond first, then push off.
One other I often see DIYer's break, is return nip[ple off PS reservior. I use same procedure: break bond first, then push off.

Tip: Place all clamps back on hose, in indentation (same rotation), made in rubber by clamp.

I'm starting to think the truck is cursed though. I pulled the head unit to install vais by receiver. To my surprise there was a btoy45 already installed but not functioning because the dim switches were set incorrectly. I should have just stopped there but I wanted to to install the vais. Long story short the head unit is now shorting out and causing all sorts of electrical gremlins.

Personally, I remove all aftermarket wiring and toys.

Tilt and telescopic motors on steering wheels stopped, some dash lights not showing up, head unit display flickering or off completely.

Perhaps go back to stock....

Note: I find many 06-07 Telescoping motors inop.

Time to get the kids into bed so more will have to wait until tomorrow. I'm hoping that nothing is fried.

Tip: Always disconnect battery negative post, before working on anything plugged. This includes seat, steering wheel and seat belts.

 

[ike84]

Got back in the garage today. The head unit is fine. Turns out that all the issues were the battery. 11.4v. Just enough that everything turns on normally until the AHC pump kicks on, at which everything becomes undervolted and goes nuts.

In the process of troubleshooting that I disassembled the head unit to look for corrosion or physical damage. I learned something that I think may help the forum in regards to Android head unit setups. (See new post). Also, I wanted to point out that a lot of posts that detail installing the bttoy45 and vais units day to row the boxes into the glove compartment. This is unnecessary as both control boxes fit very well in the space just to the left of the driver's side central air vent.

I also changed out the HVAC blower motor and changed cabin air filters. I ordered the OEM denso filters from Amazon but the ones I got had different housing markings and definitely different filter material (old on right, new on left). Probably a China knockoff in a real box, but wanted to give a heads up to those who are doing this project soon.

While under there Iwanted to get a good close up of under the dash to look for rust (given the condition of the windshield). I saw zero evidence of water intrusion of the a pillar trim or front dash when I first got the truck. What I saw today true a different picture though. The ECU looks fine, but there has definitely been water under there.

Lastly, I torqued all the valve cover bolts. 14/16 spun easily by hand. No wonder, there are rubber washers under these? I suppose it seals out the water for deep crossings. I'm amazed this doesnt cause more of an issue. I suppose the fipg holds down the covers so well that the bolts don't really matter in terms of staying power. Does anyone change washers every few years as pm?

Still a lot of work to do, no parts yet though so we hurry up and wait. I'm not sure that I would have much to offer in terms of diy projects that haven't already been well documented but I'll definitely post if I come up with one.

 

[2001LC]

Got back in the garage today. The head unit is fine. Turns out that all the issues were the battery. 11.4v. Just enough that everything turns on normally until the AHC pump kicks on, at which everything becomes undervolted and goes nuts.

Sweet, nice catch!

In the process of troubleshooting that I disassembled the head unit to look for corrosion or physical damage. I learned something that I think may help the forum in regards to Android head unit setups. (See new post). Also, I wanted to point out that a lot of posts that detail installing the bttoy45 and vais units day to row the boxes into the glove compartment. This is unnecessary as both control boxes fit very well in the space just to the left of the driver's side central air vent.

View attachment 3790499

I also changed out the HVAC blower motor and changed cabin air filters. I ordered the OEM denso filters from Amazon but the ones I got had different housing markings and definitely different filter material (old on right, new on left). Probably a China knockoff in a real box, but wanted to give a heads up to those who are doing this project soon.

View attachment 3790497

While under there Iwanted to get a good close up of under the dash to look for rust (given the condition of the windshield). I saw zero evidence of water intrusion of the a pillar trim or front dash when I first got the truck. What I saw today true a different picture though. The ECU looks fine, but there has definitely been water under there.

View attachment 3790492

Lastly, I torqued all the valve cover bolts. 14/16 spun easily by hand. No wonder, there are rubber washers under these? I suppose it seals out the water for deep crossings. I'm amazed this doesnt cause more of an issue. I suppose the fipg holds down the covers so well that the bolts don't really matter in terms of staying power. Does anyone change washers every few years as pm?

Rubber washers of 10mm bolts & rubber gasket (are not FIPG glued in) of head covers, both shrink with time. Thus, cover loosens and leaks oil. I re-torque to spec of 53INCH-lbf, w/1/4" drive digital torque wrench. Making two cross patterns passes.

Engine is not design, to have water this high in crossings. For one, we need to avoid flooding alternator, which sits lower. Also factory breathers for Diff, TC & AT are below level for the most part. Those drivers, that do go deep. Keep moving to keep a wake in front, displacing water around vehicle.

IMHO: Rubber washers & gaskets, was what engine designers felt best for 25 yr. build. The FSM & SPMM have a catch-all, to cover these loosening. Where it recommends, checking all fasteners, nut & bolts.

Still a lot of work to do, no parts yet though so we hurry up and wait. I'm not sure that I would have much to offer in terms of diy projects that haven't already been well documented but I'll definitely post if I come up with one.

 

[ike84]

New PS pump arrived. I can't imagine why the old one went bad.