LX470: how well will it "carry" an ARB?

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dnp

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I'm pretty sure I've read something on this issue here before, but for some rippin reason, I can't find it again.

I'm interested in a Sahara Bar and winch for the front of my '03 LX, but I'm concerned about the AHC's weight-carrying abilities. What issues am I likely to run into by putting this kind of weight on the front of my truck? Will it blow out the AHC accumulators or any other component(s) of the system?

I hate to ditch the AHC, for several reasons, and it's not in the "financial cards" to do it right now anyway. However, when I think of all I'd like to do to this truck (lift/tires/bumper(s)/winch), having a "conventional" suspension sure would seem to make things easier...........

OK, (dream scenario off) so back to my original question: Issues with a Sahara / winch and AHC?
 
I just had put on a ARB 03 combo bumper with a Warn 9000 winch and haven't noticed a problem. The truck does seem to sit a tad lower, but still rides in the middle AHC setting; and it has no problems going to the high AHC setting.

Not sure if the Sahara is heavier than the ARB combo, but I do know a 12000 winch would be. Plus a winch cable will be quite heavier than a synthetic rope.
 
You should crank up the torsion bars a little bit. That will reduce the stress on the AHC components and some say it improves the ride as well. Other than that your good to go.
 
Definitely crank up your torsion bars. That is something that has to be done every couple of years anyhow. Best thing is to check the Neutral Pressure of the AHC and get the TB setting spot on. That's if you want the best handling, comfort and longevity (of the spheres).
 
Is the torsion bar adjustment actually also necessary when fitting a Sahara bar and you have the 2inch OME lift?

Sorry for the hijack ;)
 
I didn't think you were supposed to crank your torsion bars when you had a stock AHC setup. I wanted to level out my front end when I put 285's on it and was going to just crank the torsions about an inch but a few people advised against that on this board. Maybe you should adjust your sensor a 1/2 inch and crank the torsions 1/2 inch. I was thinking of that as well.
 
I didn't think you were supposed to crank your torsion bars when you had a stock AHC setup. I wanted to level out my front end when I put 285's on it and was going to just crank the torsions about an inch but a few people advised against that on this board. Maybe you should adjust your sensor a 1/2 inch and crank the torsions 1/2 inch. I was thinking of that as well.

You adjust the T-bars to keep the AHC from overworking. To level your ride height you adjust the sensor. If you change your sensor(to gain height)you should crank a little more into your t-bars.
 
You adjust the T-bars to keep the AHC from overworking. To level your ride height you adjust the sensor. If you change your sensor(to gain height)you should crank a little more into your t-bars.
x2

Height and TB load/preload are two separate issues on an AHC equipped vehicle.
(Disclaimer: It is possible to have the TB preload so high that the height goes up because the AHC is not doing anything; and to have the TB so slack that height goes down because the AHC can not lift to N)

DO THE NEUTRAL PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT. Doesn't take long to do.
.
 
Is the torsion bar adjustment actually also necessary when fitting a Sahara bar and you have the 2inch OME lift?

Sorry for the hijack ;)
If AHC, then yes.
If not, just adjust TB to correct (for you) height.
 
You adjust the T-bars to keep the AHC from overworking. To level your ride height you adjust the sensor. If you change your sensor(to gain height)you should crank a little more into your t-bars.

Let's say I wanted to bring the front end up an inch to level it out a little. I would just adjust the sensors up exactly one inch and just turn the torsion bar adjuster 2-3 times?? Or would you measure from the ground to the fender-well and bring the torsions up a 1/4 inch then bring up the sensor 3/4 inch? Sorry if these seem like dumb questions.
 
Let's say I wanted to bring the front end up an inch to level it out a little. I would just adjust the sensors up exactly one inch and just turn the torsion bar adjuster 2-3 times?? Or would you measure from the ground to the fender-well and bring the torsions up a 1/4 inch then bring up the sensor 3/4 inch? Sorry if these seem like dumb questions.

Bring the sensors up first, I have not idea how much you would them to get an inch of lift, but thats easy to figure out.

Once you do that, you can then adjust the t-bars to reduce the pressure/weight that AHC is having to hold up. I also have no idea how much you should turn the t-bars......i havent messed with adjusting AHC on our LXs, I just know how too:p

Slee or LCPhil might be more helpful about how much to adjust everything
 
Very interested in this as well. I need to know these answers because I'm going to be adding the arb and 285's by this summer and want all my options for a small lift to accomodate these changes. I certainly didn't realize the ahc was going to be an issue when building the LX. I should have done more research before buying.
 
I'm interested in a Sahara Bar and winch for the front of my '03 LX, but I'm concerned about the AHC's weight-carrying abilities. <snip> However, when I think of all I'd like to do to this truck (lift/tires/bumper(s)/winch), having a "conventional" suspension sure would seem to make things easier...........

OK, (dream scenario off) so back to my original question: Issues with a Sahara / winch and AHC?
I have had an ARB Sahara Bar and Warn HS9500 winch, plus dual batteries, compressor, snorkel and ARB diff locker on the front of my 1998 LX470 since 2003. I didn't adjust the Torsion Bars originally, as ARB didn't advise it, or think it necessary when I asked. It is necessary, and the truck rides much better since I adjusted the TBs to the correct settings.

I also have an ARB rear bumper with dual tyre carrier, a Longranger fuel tank, storage drawers, cargo barrier, radios, etc., on the rear half of the truck, so have fitted OME 862 springs on the rear to carry the extra weight. They are a little stiff, especially when the truck isn't loaded, but they are the correct height for a standard AHC installation.

I agree with just about all of the above advice with no issues, except that if you don't have an FSM and either the electronic or hydraulic equipment to set the AHC pressure correctly at the NORMAL setting, then take it to a dealer and have them adjust the Torsion Bars for you. Don't guess how many turns you need to add, or take advice on that here, since all bars are set differently to begin with, and wear differently.

Personally, while I understand the allure of larger tyres, I have taken my truck over every sort of terrain except real rock crawling, without the need for them. The same thing with a permanent lift. If I have to drive through deep water, I set the AHC to Hi and drive slowly enough that the AHC stays in high. That means I can drive through one metre deep water without a problem. If I have to get up, or down a big shelf on a track, AHC in Hi and away I go. Only really big shelves cause me concern.

If you really need a lift because you will be going rock crawling, or need larger tyres because you will be driving in deep mud a lot, then you had better add sliders to protect the side sills of the truck, and you probably should install a Slee front bumper, rather than the ARB.

I guess my query is: How serious are you about the off road work you will be doing, and do you really need a lift? If not, just add the front and rear bars, and maybe other stuff I mentioned above, and go out and enjoy!
 
I have had an ARB Sahara Bar and Warn HS9500 winch, plus dual batteries, compressor, snorkel and ARB diff locker on the front of my 1998 LX470 since 2003. I didn't adjust the Torsion Bars originally, as ARB didn't advise it, or think it necessary when I asked. It is necessary, and the truck rides much better since I adjusted the TBs to the correct settings.

I also have an ARB rear bumper with dual tyre carrier, a Longranger fuel tank, storage drawers, cargo barrier, radios, etc., on the rear half of the truck, so have fitted OME 862 springs on the rear to carry the extra weight. They are a little stiff, especially when the truck isn't loaded, but they are the correct height for a standard AHC installation.

I agree with just about all of the above advice with no issues, except that if you don't have an FSM and either the electronic or hydraulic equipment to set the AHC pressure correctly at the NORMAL setting, then take it to a dealer and have them adjust the Torsion Bars for you. Don't guess how many turns you need to add, or take advice on that here, since all bars are set differently to begin with, and wear differently.

Personally, while I understand the allure of larger tyres, I have taken my truck over every sort of terrain except real rock crawling, without the need for them. The same thing with a permanent lift. If I have to drive through deep water, I set the AHC to Hi and drive slowly enough that the AHC stays in high. That means I can drive through one metre deep water without a problem. If I have to get up, or down a big shelf on a track, AHC in Hi and away I go. Only really big shelves cause me concern.

If you really need a lift because you will be going rock crawling, or need larger tyres because you will be driving in deep mud a lot, then you had better add sliders to protect the side sills of the truck, and you probably should install a Slee front bumper, rather than the ARB.

I guess my query is: How serious are you about the off road work you will be doing, and do you really need a lift? If not, just add the front and rear bars, and maybe other stuff I mentioned above, and go out and enjoy!

To be honest my "offroading" is limited to maybe 1-2 times a year and that will be fairly easy fireroads or hopping the curb every now and then. I really just want to set my cruiser apart from all of the other million grocery getters out there and pull the running boards off, level out the front end, lock it in high mode and run 285's. Nothing too aggresive but set it apart from all the others a little. It will be months before I do all of that as well but I'm just trying to gather all of the info when I'm ready to pull the trigger.
 
If you come out with us you will wheel more than 1-2 times a year :D

I hear ya! I'm going to have to let the "newness" wear off a little so my wife doesn't freak out when I bring it home covered in mud. She said it wasn't made to take off road. I just laughed. :hillbilly:
 
To be honest my "offroading" is limited to maybe 1-2 times a year and that will be fairly easy fireroads or hopping the curb every now and then. I really just want to set my cruiser apart from all of the other million grocery getters out there and pull the running boards off, level out the front end, lock it in high mode and run 285's. Nothing too aggresive but set it apart from all the others a little. It will be months before I do all of that as well but I'm just trying to gather all of the info when I'm ready to pull the trigger.

I pulled the tiny road tires, running boards, rear wing and factory roof rack. I added BFG AT 285/65/18, Slee slider steps and Front Runner load bars. No lift (yet - I am planning on pulling the AHC and going to OME set-up). I live in LA where there are 10,000,000 LXs and LCs - these changes are totally practical and my truck looks totally different.
 
I really just want to set my cruiser apart from all of the other million grocery getters out there . . .
Then give it a custom paint job!

Okay, sorry. I'm sure you want it to look like a real off roader as well. :D

. . . and pull the running boards off, . . .
Then expect to explain to the wife why the sills are all dented. Either that, or put Slee sliders or equivalent on to protect them. She won't like not having the running boards to assist getting into and out of the truck either, unless she is tall.

. . . level out the front end,
You need to read up about that around here. The vehicle is design to have the nose a little lower, with that slightly angled stance. You will be changing the suspension dynamics by leveling it out. Some who have tried have found it difficult to get right as well.

. . .lock it in high mode
Some people do that as well, but why do you want to? The beauty of AHC is that it runs like a car at Normal height on the road, and when you need clearance, you hit the button and there you have it. If you lock it in High you are just losing handling and safety. If this truck was just your weekend hack, the fine, but if it is someone's daily driver, locking it in High is a bad idea. (Okay, I have my flame suit on everyone. Fire away!)

I guess what I am saying is that the truck is a very capable off road vehicle. I have modified mine as I needed to to travel alone around Australia, in isolated desert areas, across mountains, and so on. Modifying it just for the looks, at the loss of functionality and convenience, seems like such a waste.
 
I hear ya! I'm going to have to let the "newness" wear off a little so my wife doesn't freak out when I bring it home covered in mud. She said it wasn't made to take off road. I just laughed. :hillbilly:

Dont forget the scratches:rolleyes:
 
I'm gonna resurrect this thread cause it has a lot of good info in it...

I agree with just about all of the above advice with no issues, except that if you don't have an FSM and either the electronic or hydraulic equipment to set the AHC pressure correctly at the NORMAL setting, then take it to a dealer and have them adjust the Torsion Bars for you. Don't guess how many turns you need to add, or take advice on that here, since all bars are set differently to begin with, and wear differently.

On that note, do y'all think that a Toyota or Lexus dealer would be OK with setting AHC pressures and adjusting the torsion bars on an LX470 that's been modified with a Slee controller to stay locked in the High position? Or would they have such a problem with an owner doing this that they'd refuse to perform the service?
 

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