LX450 Newbie - Intro thread (3 Viewers)

[gummycarbs]

The FSM explains how to check the charcoal canister.

There's also a check valve in the tank that might be the cause (I don't remember which way the check valve allows air, or where it leads). It's a cheap part, but you have to drop the tank a few inches to reach it.

 

[Alex Fogg]

I had the same thought when I took off my running boards, after a year of hating being able to see the bend in the exhaust sticking down as the lowest point under the truck I had a new exhaust installed and had my mechanic loop the exhaust over the frame instead of under it. We put some heat reflective material where it looped over the frame so it wouldn't heat up the interior and it took a few tries to eliminate the random rattle of the new routing, but it's quiet now and when I look at my truck from a distance no exhaust sticks down. Now I need sliders!

 

[Dubbinchris]

The FSM explains how to check the charcoal canister.

There's also a check valve in the tank that might be the cause (I don't remember which way the check valve allows air, or where it leads). It's a cheap part, but you have to drop the tank a few inches to reach it.

It’s almost always the charcoal canister in these trucks. I’m not one to waste money on parts but even I would rather toss in a new charcoal canister before dropping the tank.

 

[clx16]

3) Google WheelSkins for a cheap solution... lseat.com Cheapest i've found unless you want factory finish for seat leather and add padding as needed along with seat heaters (amazon) if you want rebuild your current seats. I found out that Isuzu VehiCROSS vehicles are in junk yards with recaro seats for cheap and probably just need the 80 series adaptor to make them bolt in directly.

Also: Custom High Quality Truck and SUV Seat Covers | Marathon Seat Covers search around there is a threat with these on an 80 and fit great.

5) nope you will have a long check list that will keep growing as you keep finding things you want to change or fix. face it. you are in a relationship and all relationships take work. This is going to be a Serious Long Term one too. Remember to have fun.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

So Happy you got that LX. Kept the suspense going for a while there. Welcome to the community officially. I hope your 80 series provides many years of enjoyment.

 

[missbarilov]

Hello friends and family! Brief update then a turn for help:

I flushed all my fluids and took the LX outdoors - ended up putting more than 5k miles on him stock running all around southern california forests, big sur, etc. still adding a bit of Marvel Mystery oil in there to clean out the gunk between oil changes but thats basically as far as i went.

I love him.

I fixed the left mirror jiggle with zipties, fixed the visor with magnets, put on a new steering wheel cover, removed the rear seats (kept the jumpers folded up for the rare passengers), spent a painful day re-upholstering the front seats with lseat covers (that was painful), took off the running boards and fixed the sunroof from rattling. It now looks super sweet inside.

This was all fine and dandy until i was chatting to a buddy of mine who does a lot of baja racing who volunteered that if i buy the beer and the steel he’ll help weld some custom bumpers, sliders, armor for the thing.

Great opportunity! Your heroine thought. Except, if welding was to commence, the suspension would need to be upgraded, i was told.

So i got an OME 2.5 heavy lift kit from bilstein which arrived day before yesterday (OME 2.5" lift kit for 80 series 1991-1997 Toyota Land Cruiser) I got too excited and threw it on right away, which of course would look silly with the stock tires so i also added 285/75/16 BFGs to my adventure. Stock wheels. No casters or spacers were used. I gave it to a shop because i cant lift it in my hangar and even if i could its way out of my expertise.

Now the sun has just risen on me sitting on my hood in the middle of big sur wondering where it all went wrong! There is definite rubbing on tight turns with compression in the front. On paved roads even. Where does it rub you may ask? Good question - how does one know? Im still running stock bumpers and i put mud flaps on when i took off the running boards so those are a good suspect, but they dont look like theyre touched (mud undisturbed). Maybe the front bumper but ditto on being hard to tell.

To add insult to injury, there is a terrible clack thats coming from what seems like the arena of the steering stabilizer bar on the front.

Yes, maybe i shouldnt be allowed to modify anything anymore but im trying to view my mistakes as happy accidents. If i dont do anything i dont learn anything, right?

Anyway appreciate any advice about whether this is a major / minor issue that a) can be fixed by swapping out coils to lighter ones? b) happened to anyone else with 285/75s c) indicative of incorrect install and i should drive it home immediately.

I know, i know, search function still works but im on my boyfriends phone bc mine doesnt have reception and after 2 hours of the clickety nothing is helping - seems like a lot of opinions out there.

Ill be having the boyfriend drive it around when he wakes up to see if i can watch the rub and clacket so stay tuned, but i figured ill throw this on here sooner than later.

 

[Cass007]

Check the steering arms at full turn for signs of rubbing. Look for the spot that looks clean to find the rub.

35" tires work well with the 2.5" OME lift. Several guys in the local Cruiser club using that setup, but may require a re-gear to get back into the power band.

Can't help with thew rattle, but you got the Heavy Kit, so it may ride harsh. That kit is for overlanding rigs with armor, bumpers, sliders, roof rack, drawers and usually a tent. It MAY smooth out a bit once you add the weight, but I'm no suspension guru by far, just going off of what I have read here.

Check that the fan isn't contacting anything and that the oil cooler, steering cooler and stock little armor plate under the steering stabilizer area were all secured properly.

 

[missbarilov]

It looks like the source of the clacket is that the steering stabilizer is bottoming out and hitting whatever the bar is thats directly behind it. Maybe time for me to learn what a castor is?

 

[OffRoadScott]

Good looking rig. I know the joy of being a new owner myself. I have owned my for a little less then a month or right around that.

Since buying mine I ordered the OME 2.5 med per the recommendations of the guys over at Slee and Desert Toys here in Mesa, AZ. They told me the heavies would rattle my teeth loose, they are designed for the overlander. Where you are running with 1500 pounds of extra gear. Going with the mediums I will still be able to run armor.

IF you plan on adding more armor and gear for overlanding/camping etc. I would stay with the heavies, or your going sag with the mediums and then add spacers which will not help in load bearing. One option to think about if you do change over to the mediums is air bags in the back to help with load.

As far as caster a lot of people have told me to go with caster brackets vice the caster correction bushing from Slee. The poly urethane is not as durable as the factory bushings. And the caster correction brackets are easier to install, but if you want bushings I will sell you my Slee caster correction bushings and install tool. Or just buy me the Slee caster correction plates and we will call it even. The reason I have the OME bushing kit and Slee install tool it came with me lift.

As far as that rubbing issue you should see some wear marks on the frame, plastics where it is rubbing. I went with the same tire as you but in 315/75-16. The only time I rub is when I come out of a steep driveway and on the compression of the STOCK springs/shocks it rubs the fender flares. I am sure that after the suspension lift that issue will go away.

 

[96FZJ80]

I got the OME medium 2.5" lift springs and shocks, steering stabilizer and the caster correction plates. Same tires, BFG 285/75 r16 on stock wheels. Drove it for a month before installing the plates (waiting) and did not experience any rubbing or noises. As a matter of fact, thought about not installing the plates but did it when they came in anyway. Heavy versus medium might make the difference but I tend to think not.

 

[missbarilov]

Well guys - Mystery solved when we heard a loud clank and a bunch of parts fell out. Turns out the shop cross-threaded the top bolt on the left front shocks and didn’t even bother screwing the nut all the way on. The whole bushing came out on the road and my guardian angel made sure we found all the parts.

Took 4 hours and a lot of dirt to Mcgyver that thing back on given the crossed thread ensured the whole shock turned with the nut.

Feeling like I should have just gotten a jack and done this thing myself because I think I could have done a better job than those jokers ;(

 

[OffRoadScott]

Well guys - Mystery solved when we heard a loud clank and a bunch of parts fell out. Turns out the shop double-threaded the top bolt on the left front shocks and didn’t even bother screwing the nut all the way on. The whole bushing came out on the road and my guardian angel made sure we found all the parts.

Took 4 hours and a lot of dirt to Mcgyver that thing back on given the double thread ensured the whole shock turned with the nut.

Feeling like I should have just gotten a jack and done this thing myself because I think I could have done a better job than those jokers ;(

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That fxxxing blows. I would take it right back and have them fix it or at least buy you a new shock.

 

[clx16]

Sometimes doing the work yourself isn't just to save money. It is to make sure no corners are cut. Glad you figured it out. Usually it is pretty obvious early on when threads get crossed.... 4 Hours and it looks like your environment wasn't the best for doing repairs. If you take it in to get them to fix the mistake, I would ask they not be allowed to use an impact wrench this time. I am thinking they didn't get the nut started properly and just run the wrench till it stops turning.. in this case until it is bound up but not screwed down.

 

[missbarilov]

Gah - to add insult to injury the “rubbing” noise got better when I got the nut and bearing on but got a lot worse throughout the day today and now is a loud grinding that happens every time I decelerate.

Thinking maybe the wheel bearing on the passenger side has gone, trying to get home, figure out what next and the right people to consult in my area.

Super greatful to this forum and despite the challenges of the weekend, feeling like I’m finally entering the “I’m constantly learning to fix s*** that’s going wrong with my car” club, which is an honor.

 

[Phares]

Good luck getting home. Keep posting specific details and you will get answers. These trucks are absolutely worth the effort.

 

[PDoyle]

Gotta remember he is 20 plus years old now.....

 

[clx16]

decelerate...as it hit the brakes or let off the gas? I wonder if you have a brake caliper rubbing the inner portion of your wheel. I've had a few wheel bearings go but not on an 80. However what you describe doesn't sound like that. You go around and push and pull on each tire to see if you feel play or there is any knocking aounds? If so that would be extreme play without having it off the ground.

 

[missbarilov]

decelerate...as it hit the brakes or let off the gas? I wonder if you have a brake caliper rubbing the inner portion of your wheel. I've had a few wheel bearings go but not on an 80. However what you describe doesn't sound like that. You go around and push and pull on each tire to see if you feel play or there is any knocking aounds? If so that would be extreme play without having it off the ground.

Ah good to know! It started doing it at seemingly random times of deceleration and now it has gotten very bad and happens every time I let the gas off at low speed (under 45), if I brake it doesn’t happen, just coasting deceleration. It doesn’t sound like rubbing anymore, now it sounds like grinding, like the sound you hear when you go off the freeway on the washboard on the side of the road but much much louder.

Will be spending today troubleshooting and dealing with the shop - got home late last night in god shape (as in, nothing hasfallen off yet).

 

[clx16]

Good you are home... I would be interested to see if you have anything in your diffs like metal shavings, would be good to check the transfer case for the same stuff. I suppose it holds true that an 80 doesn't often just fail as you were able to still get home.

 

[missbarilov]

Finally in front of a computer and can search - this is the sound: so now I'm after those spindle bushings and / or grinding bearings.

I'll post an update when things develop in case anyone is interested in learning what happens to your front axle when you don't screw your suspension on.