Lumbar adjuster (Drivers seat) has stopped functioning

[TXLX100]

$1200 seems high even for a dealership, strange both of them failed. Mine only has a lumbar on the driver and the part was around $300. I'm unaware of where you can buy the exact internal motor and if you could find one, you'd have to successfully remove and install the worm gear IF the new motor has a keyed shaft.

This one looks close, but it's not exact so I doubt it would work. I'd be interested in who made the motor Toyota used though...
http://www.mabuchi-motor.co.jp/cgi-bin/catalog/e_catalog.cgi?CAT_ID=sz_286wa

 

[heydanno]

Thought I'd resurrect this old thread with my experience.

In my new to me 2000, the lumbar feels excessively firm so as to make it rather uncomfortable, but I couldn't get the motor to respond to release the support. This is how I fixed my problem:

1) First I checked the switch. I used the relevant pages in the 2004 FSM (BE-112, for reference). Note that "lumbar" is spelled "lumber" everywhere in the manual, which might mess up your searches in the PDF. I was having trouble removing the seat cushion outer shield (piece with the switches) and didn't want to break the tabs as others have done. Removing the four screws was enough to pull it back and get in there with a screwdriver bit and a tiny Crescent wrench to slowly loosen the two screws that hold in the lumbar switch. Using the front camera on my iPhone was a huge help to see up underneath everything and find the screws.

Crescent wrench deployed loosening lumbar switch screws


Success!


Upon testing, the switch was fine... on to the motor

2) I pried off the seat back cover (relevant FSM page is BO-106) but it really just pops off, rather violently. As I suspected, the paddle seemed excessively extended. In fact, it seemed like it might have been jammed. So I loosened the three screws holding the motor on to the seat frame, along with a screw that keeps tension on the bar and paddle assembly.



To my delight, when loosened, the paddle swung free, instantly solving my issue. Even better, the motor worked in its loosened state, suggesting it was jammed before. I remounted the motor to the frame, with a more appropriate lumbar position, and it works now. The motor is still not the strongest thing in the world, but at least it works, it is comfortable, and the repair was free.

 

[SL404]

"To my delight, when loosened, the paddle swung free, instantly solving my issue. Even better, the motor worked in its loosened state, suggesting it was jammed before. I remounted the motor to the frame, with a more appropriate lumbar position, and it works now. The motor is still not the strongest thing in the world, but at least it works, it is comfortable, and the repair was free"

AMAZING! Same exact thing happened to me. I went from frustrated and about to jam a book behind the seat, to delighted that it started working. Free fix! Thanks for the heads up, I was about to give up until I read your post.

 

[Patineto]

Miracle, actually double Miracle, I did not even know I have it, reach for the button without even looking and bumm mine actually work just fine (Knock on wood, but not on the dash wood or the Pleather seats for that matter)

 

[Greenbean]

I'm going to try this with mine in a few days.

I have my seats out and apart, if anything I want the most lumbar support I can get then I'll just put the back back in and forget about it.

 

[slowmo]

I replaced my driver lumbar motor when I bought my truck. After I fixed it, I found out even with it deployed, it's not great support. It hasn't moved from deployed since I replaced the part. Had I known, I would have just manually rigged it to stay deployed.... Just a thought for someone to consider, versus spending $300 on a part.

I've owned my '02 since new. The lumbar adjuster was the first item to go. When working, it never was very effective and I've never been motivated to resurrect it since.

 

[Greenbean]

I'm going to try this with mine in a few days.

I have my seats out and apart, if anything I want the most lumbar support I can get then I'll just put the back back in and forget about it.

So I tested my lumbar switch via the FSM instructions and it tested OK.

Looks like I'll be adding some padding on my own once I get done with the Leatherique stuff.

 

[Mr Snappy]

So, how about one that moves, but stops working mid adjustment? And seems to get forced back after a while.

 

[Mr Snappy]

Bring this back to life:
Thanks to all for the posts and pictures about this issue. I got a replacement lumbar assembly from CruiserParts, and after talking to a few of my toyota tech's, was able to replace the entire assembly tonight. I tested the motor before installing it, deffinantly seemed more robust than the one that was in there. It would stop working after about 3 cycles of the switch.
I also took the opportunity to snag some quilt batting from my wife, and added a little extra layer of material to the seat back, in front of the lumbar paddle. Got it all back together without breaking anything, too! Now the lumbar works like it should, and has a little more support too, which will be super nice at Christmas time, we have a 1000 mile drive each way coming up, and we do it all in one day.
Also added a couple of the locking cam thingies to the seat back mesh pocket cords, so now they draw up nice and tight.

 

[TheDesertPearl]

It's too late to help anyone else on this thread, but maybe someone in the future will find this helpful.

My driver's side lumbar support was not functioning when I purchased the vehicle from the PO. I pulled the switch and tested per the FSM hoping for an easy fix. Unfortunately, the switch was functioning properly and I had a faulty motor. I was able to pull the motor by removing the three screws holding it onto the arm assembly, preventing the need to mess with the upholstery. The motor moved when disconnected from the assembly, but was very weak and would not turn when minimal resistance was applied via pliers.

Unwilling to pay the ~$400 for a new motor and arm, I shopped ebay and junkyards unsuccessfully. A friend suggested I purchase a lumbar motor from a similar year Toyota vehicle in hopes the small motor was equivalent and could be swapped in. I purchased junkyard LF lumbar motor from a 2004-2010 Sienna off ebay for $35. From the ebay pictures, it was clear the output between the two motors was different, but the case looked very similar. After receiving the motor, I was able to swap the output gear from the blow LX motor into the Sienna motor and was in business. The pictures below show how similar the bodies of the two motors are (i.e. almost identical). I am sure a similar approach would have worked with many other Toyota/Lexus motors.

'04 LX motor is white and '04-'10 Sienna motor is black:

 

[thetoyotaman]

I have a lumbar support that works when no one is sitting in the seat. Wondering if somehow the lumbar itself gets sticky like the window guides?

 

[dwh13]

Here’s my free 5 minute “fix” - my switch tested fine and lumbar adjustment is definitely not worth $300 for the motor so I just popped the seatback off, shoved a folded towel in until it was comfortable, and called it a day. It’s been perfectly comfortable for 6 months now.

Well, except for the lumbar motor. The switch tested fine, and I don't care enough to replace the motor at $300, so I just shoved a towel in there

• dwh13
• Aug 9, 2018

 

[TheDesertPearl]

I have a lumbar support that works when no one is sitting in the seat. Wondering if somehow the lumbar itself gets sticky like the window guides?

I'm guessing your motor is slowly going out but hasn't failed completely yet.

 

[Shikha]

It's too late to help anyone else on this thread, but maybe someone in the future will find this helpful.

My driver's side lumbar support was not functioning when I purchased the vehicle from the PO. I pulled the switch and tested per the FSM hoping for an easy fix. Unfortunately, the switch was functioning properly and I had a faulty motor. I was able to pull the motor by removing the three screws holding it onto the arm assembly, preventing the need to mess with the upholstery. The motor moved when disconnected from the assembly, but was very weak and would not turn when minimal resistance was applied via pliers.

Unwilling to pay the ~$400 for a new motor and arm, I shopped ebay and junkyards unsuccessfully. A friend suggested I purchase a lumbar motor from a similar year Toyota vehicle in hopes the small motor was equivalent and could be swapped in. I purchased junkyard LF lumbar motor from a 2004-2010 Sienna off ebay for $35. From the ebay pictures, it was clear the output between the two motors was different, but the case looked very similar. After receiving the motor, I was able to swap the output gear from the blow LX motor into the Sienna motor and was in business. The pictures below show how similar the bodies of the two motors are (i.e. almost identical). I am sure a similar approach would have worked with many other Toyota/Lexus motors.

'04 LX motor is white and '04-'10 Sienna motor is black:

View attachment 1627410

View attachment 1627411

View attachment 1627412

View attachment 1627413

View attachment 1627414

Did this on my 2005. Worked like a charm!!

 

[mdcoa]

Just stuck a new genuine motor in mine—got it from Partsouq for $170ish, with shipping for it and two brake flex hoses coming to a whopping $11 from UAE....

Thanks for all the info in this thread. Ended up removing the seat back and side, determining the switch was fine as per FSM, and then ordering the new motor.

Some notes:
-Pull the seat back off starting at the top—I started at the bottom (without checking the FSM) and it came off ok, but I don’t think it was super good for the clips...

-When removing the old motor, once the three screws were out, I had to pry the lumbar bar mounting plate inward (toward vehicle center) to get the old motor’s gear to clear the assembly and let it drop down. Same drill when pushing the old motor up.

-once the screws are all pretty loose/removed, you can completely disengage the lumbar bar from the motor by pulling it up and back. This will make getting at the motor and installing the replacement easier.

-when installing the new motor, I taped the screws to the end of my screwdriver to avoid dropping them somewhere inaccessible. Also, after much frustration, I determined that setting the bottom rear (closest to you) screw and then tightening it completely will bring the other holes into alignment, making starting them pretty straightforward. Once both of them are started, back off in screw number one to allow re-engaging the lumbar-bar gears with the motor’s pinion. The motor does not need to be indexed—it will run indefinitely in either direction. The bar’s teeth stop it on both ends, so as long as the teeth are mated, you can tighten up the three screws and Bob’s your uncle.

New:

Old:

Bar moved rearward to disengage from pinion.

 

[Chris Reiblein]

Used this one 2007 - 2011 LEXUS GS 350 OEM FRONT LEFT LH DRIVER SIDE SEAT LUMBAR MOTOR .
Changed output gear and it worked perfectly. This one had a foil insulation wrap. Not sure why.

 

[KraziAzn]

Edit.

I just bought the motor from a 2010 TOYOTA AVALON. Looks about the same. Hopefully, it'll work.


Anyone know if a ES350 motor will work too? I found a GS350 but it is twice the price.

2007 Lexus ES350 FRONT SEAT LUMBAR MOTOR 85820-28400 OEM | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 2007 Lexus ES350 FRONT SEAT LUMBAR MOTOR 85820-28400 OEM at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[KraziAzn]

Update: the 2010 TOYOTA AVALON works like a charm, just had to swap out one of the output gear. Man! it was such a pain to put the motor back in!

 

[YJ351LC]

Did the towel trick. Perfect!

 

[BamaLC100]

It's too late to help anyone else on this thread, but maybe someone in the future will find this helpful.

My driver's side lumbar support was not functioning when I purchased the vehicle from the PO. I pulled the switch and tested per the FSM hoping for an easy fix. Unfortunately, the switch was functioning properly and I had a faulty motor. I was able to pull the motor by removing the three screws holding it onto the arm assembly, preventing the need to mess with the upholstery. The motor moved when disconnected from the assembly, but was very weak and would not turn when minimal resistance was applied via pliers.

Unwilling to pay the ~$400 for a new motor and arm, I shopped ebay and junkyards unsuccessfully. A friend suggested I purchase a lumbar motor from a similar year Toyota vehicle in hopes the small motor was equivalent and could be swapped in. I purchased junkyard LF lumbar motor from a 2004-2010 Sienna off ebay for $35. From the ebay pictures, it was clear the output between the two motors was different, but the case looked very similar. After receiving the motor, I was able to swap the output gear from the blow LX motor into the Sienna motor and was in business. The pictures below show how similar the bodies of the two motors are (i.e. almost identical). I am sure a similar approach would have worked with many other Toyota/Lexus motors.

'04 LX motor is white and '04-'10 Sienna motor is black:

View attachment 1627410

View attachment 1627411

View attachment 1627412

View attachment 1627413

View attachment 1627414

Link for motor?