My 80 rebuild is nearing completion but the dreaded spongy brakes have reared their ugly head and trying to get a reasonably solid pedal is proving impossible. All the calipers were rebuilt, new discs and pads fitted and even fitted a new master cylinder. Now looking at the LSPV and wondering if I can delete or bypass it. My 80 is a 1995 one with ABS and would like to keep the ABS if possible, If I join the feed and rear brake pipes at the LSPV and blank off the line from the ABS unit would this work?
LSPV Delete (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Clare80
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- Thread starter
- #3
I've been looking through them alright but a lot of owners seem to go the whole hog and take out the ABS too. Wonder if anyone just deleted the LSPV and left the ABS intact
Lots of people have deleted the LSPV and kept the ABS (myself included). Not a complicated process but I doubt the spongy brakes are being caused by the LSPV. Assuming you have bled it correctly and in the right order with the calipers then you are likely looking at air/stale brake fluid trapped in the ABS pump.
I believe the LSPV is still available from Mr. T
I believe the LSPV is still available from Mr. T
- Thread starter
- #5
How would I go about getting the trapped air out of the ABS unit. Was going to back bleed the system and see if it helps. My father had a garage for 30 years and came across a lot of soft pedals (mainly in VW's) in his day due to LSPV's. Removing them solved the spongey pedals in those cases so we thought might be an answer to my issues too.
Do some searching on here; I remember some discussion on this.
If I recall, it had to do with activating the ABS several times by braking with wheels on one side of the vehicle in the gravel on the side of the road.
Never had to do it myself.
If I recall, it had to do with activating the ABS several times by braking with wheels on one side of the vehicle in the gravel on the side of the road.
Never had to do it myself.
Write-up: Toss the LSPV and install a manual proportioning valve
**I haven't tested this on the road yet since my truck is on jack stands, working on a knuckle rebuild. But I did test the system and so far no leaks** After fighting with my rusted-to-hell LSPV and trying to adjust it, I got fed up and decided to get rid of it. Debated and bypassing it and...
forum.ih8mud.com
theres your delete thread, i kept my abs in the truck and it still worked after the delete. i think most of my posts were on pages 8-9 with p/n for what youll need
Here is the set up which will allow you activate the ABS. I can't remember who gets the credit for this. When I used this method I was careful to only activate the circuit for 3 or 4 seconds at a time. You also need someone to press the brake pedal with a bleed screw open so the funky fluid has somewhere to escape to. The crap that came out of mine was almost black and after the process I could chirp my 35's on a dry pavement.
- Thread starter
- #9
Thanks guys for the advice. I’ll give it a try over next few days and let you know of it works for me !!
Irish Reiver;
Did you open a bleeder at a caliper or on the ABS module?
So is this your order of events:
-crack vleeder
-activate ABS
-have someone press brake pedal while ABS is running.
How old is the lspv you have?
- Thread starter
- #12
Tried hot wiring the ABS as per the guide but only got smoke from the unit. Think the motor may be stuck. It hasn’t been on road in over 14 years. Waiting on some joiners to by pass the ABS and Pressure valve and see how that goes
- Thread starter
- #13
It’s the original I’d say and is completely stuck
