And because I know what's coming next...
Mounting the LSPV to the frame and attaching the spring to the axle...
Goal is to mount LSPV and axle-spring (the long arm) in a way that the end of the axle-spring inside the rubber boot on the LSPV barely touches the pin.
First do the axle side. There are some default figures in the manual on how to dial in the adjusting screw. Do not put nuts and cotterpin yet.
Then do the LSPV to the frame. The bracket has long holes, so it can be moved up and down a bit. Move it cautiously and you can feel ! the spring touching the pin. Mount it accordingly.
Go back to the axle side, pull off the spring from the pivot and check. If the LSPV sits correctly, you won't have much deviation. If not good, you can fine tune with the adjusting screw.
Bleeding the LSPV
Put the axle spring on its pivot (still no nut and cotterpin yet) and bleed your brakes / rear brake normally.
Follow the instruction in the manual and bleed front first, then bleed the LSPV using the bleeding nipple on it. Then bleed the sections LSPV to rear axle ( rear brakes).
If you had the LSPV out, your long line from the front might be empty, and also your line from the LSPV to the opposite side is quite long. Be patient. Use a bleeding device (don't ruin your master cylinder by pumping it) and pull trough quite a cup of brake fluid on each nipple.
The LSPV has a 2nd line that runs back to the T on the front and feeds into the front brake circuit. When active, the LSPV sends brakeforce from the rear to the front trough this return line.
When stationary, the LSPV is blocking this line. It is then part of the front brakes pressure system and air in it causes poor braking in the front. This line is however not easily been bled. As the LSPV blocks it, there is no fluid flow in it. To bleed it, one must indeed undo and lower the LSPV spring arm! So, off the pivot it goes again.
The issue is this: You can't only use the bleeder nipple on the LSPV for bleeding the return line. With that bleeder nippel open, you actually have two parallel lines from the front sending fluid to the back. The fluid may take the main line only.
Nevertheless start with bleeding on the LSPV, with the spring arm down, unless running clear of bubbles. But usually that's not sufficient for the return line.
So, to eventually bleed the return line, I made the fluid go the intended direction and bled it from the front ! (wheel next to the T), with spring arm down and LSPV bleeder nipple closed. Again: The line is very long and probably empty. Be patient and pull trough a lot of fluid.
Also note that the air passes the T in front and may also get into the line to the other front wheel a bit. Once you lower the spring arm and free the return line, air might also get backwards into the section LSPV-rear axle a bit.
So: after bleeding the return line, you are due floor another full cycle of bleeding front - LSPV -rear.
The secret really is: Pull trough a lot of fluid!
Adjusting the LSPV
Check here (featuring additional bonus video)
Those look great! They are so much comfier than the factory seats too, granted the drivers side one had seen better days
forum.ih8mud.com
It's a mission, but you can do it!
Good luck Ralf
