murf
Lifer
Did mine like this today. Don't know why I didn't do this sooner!If you must keep your LSPV I found this setting to provide the best braking
LSPV Adjustment after 4" Lift (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Josey1972
- Start date
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Do you notice a difference?
murf
Lifer
yes, when slamming on the brakes hard the rear brakes participated a lot more than in the past where it was questionable
lets see one regular ....
what is this kit yee speak of
Question for you guys. About 6 years ago I put a 4" Slee lift on a '94 LC. Bleeding the brakes after adding line extensions was a royal pain. Couldn't get all the air out. Finally took it to a dealer where they activated the ABS while they bled them - not sure how they did it, but it worked. Anyway, the brakes have never really felt "right" since the lift was put on. Just not as solid as I'd like them. Always figured it was the 35's, but still never have been real happy with them. Discovered today that my rear brake pads are shot and the front ones look pretty good. I suspect the LSPV is putting too much force to the rear brakes. If I adjust the arm from the LSPV to the axle down (at the differential) will that put more pressure to the front brakes?
Are they original pads on the rear and replacement pads on the front? If the pads have never been changed on the rear and have on the front that could be the issue. 6 years seems an extensive amount of time to not be doing a brake job
6 yrs = 15-20K miles. Doesn't seem extensive to me. Not my daily driver.
another variation on the theme. LSPB valve or Wilwood proportioning valve?
I thought since this just came up again that I'd add my $.02 about cutting the LSPV rod. I had a difficult time when I did mine a couple years ago too...the method I found that worked the best was using a triangle file or edge of a file to score a deep groove around the rod, then detach it from the axle and snap it off at the score line. Works great, doesn't take long if you file vigorously.
Dude! S.L.O.W. D.O.W.N.
(unnecessary thread bump...)
I cut the line connect to the axle, then tie the line with some safety wire to keep it up.
lumbee1
Native American
Delete the LSPV and the ABS and install the Wilwood proportioning valve. Awesome consistent braking and I always recommend this to everyone that asks.
A full 50/50 pressure out of the master cylinder with no ABS caused my rear to lock up and cause the truck to rotate. I marked the "W" on the Wilwood proportioning valve with finger nail polish and set the adjustment to wide open at first. I eventually settled on 3 full turns to get even braking from the front and rear.
BTW, my ABS pump stopped working completely but I also had air in the ABS pump which led to a soft brake pedal with no safety factor.
A full 50/50 pressure out of the master cylinder with no ABS caused my rear to lock up and cause the truck to rotate. I marked the "W" on the Wilwood proportioning valve with finger nail polish and set the adjustment to wide open at first. I eventually settled on 3 full turns to get even braking from the front and rear.
BTW, my ABS pump stopped working completely but I also had air in the ABS pump which led to a soft brake pedal with no safety factor.
