LSPV Adjustment after 4" Lift (1 Viewer)

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I have been looking over every forum I can find regarding adjustments of the LSPV after a 4" lift. I am unable to find a photo of what the finished product looks like. All of the Mud threads about it no long have the pictures working. Currently mine is going under the upper arm and obviously not helping the braking situation.

Everyone talks about dropping the body down but how is that done? Is there a bracket somewhere or do I need to make my own. Frustrating.

All help is appreciated.
 
Mark the position of the valve on the bracket. There's two bolts holding the lspv to the body. loosen these two bolts (or were they nuts?) and the body is slotted to allow the valve to drop down. For my 860 springs I needed 1/4" of valve movement downwards. HTH, YMMV. I hope your fasteners aren't rusted to death.
 
Yep, i made a 1/4" spacer and installed it.
Was able to set the axle adjuster where I wanted it after that.
 
Since it's Labor Day, I will offer you a couple more options.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9P8XXY/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2AO0N3E20KRLV&colid=2FS00JU8STZA7


or really cheap one

IMG_20170904_162757555.jpg


IMG_20170904_162804578.jpg
 
I fixed my LSPV by ripping it out and putting in a union. I now have amazing, consistent brakes and kept my ABS.
 
to do it proper way you need tool for it i have whole set so you can measure pressure on the front and rear at same time i need to look in the book what the pressure setting is i believe 1300 psi there is no way to do it correctly without proper tool

Or you can do it by feel....
if it feels better or feels worse, adjust up or down.

Since we already have the wrong springs and wrong ride height, we can wing this too.
 
IMG_4589.JPG


A simple bracket to space the LSPV up at the axle side works just fine.
 
Or you can do it by feel....
if it feels better or feels worse, adjust up or down.

Since we already have the wrong springs and wrong ride height, we can wing this too.
that is what i did i guess but when i hit first snow i ended in ditch so screw it the kit was 70 $ and i adjusted it the proper way now when i brake my LC statues straight if you apply to much pressure to rear it can be dangerous rear will look up befor front
 
that is what i did i guess but when i hit first snow i ended in ditch so screw it the kit was 70 $ and i adjusted it the proper way now when i brake my LC statues straight if you apply to much pressure to rear it can be dangerous rear will look up befor front


Dude!
You lost me at "snow".

WTH is that?
 
I fixed my LSPV by ripping it out and putting in a union. I now have amazing, consistent brakes and kept my ABS.
Where does one find a union? Do you have a photo of yours? Thanks for the response.
 
The best LSPV is a disabled or removed one :eek:
 
Where does one find a union? Do you have a photo of yours? Thanks for the response.
Autozone. M10x1.0 if I remember correctly.

There are really two hardlines coming from the front to the LSPV and one line that goes out. The bottom line in the LSPV is the sense line, the top line is the pressure line. I removed the sense line and put the union between the pressure line and the output line to the rear brakes. At the T hear the master cylinder, I removed the other end of the sense line. I cut the sense line and removed the fitting. I welded up the hole in the fitting and reinstalled it into the T.

Now I have full line pressure to the front and the back with nothing to adjust. Others that have installed manual proportioning valves found that 50/50 works best. This makes sense because the front calipers are much larger than the rear. There was originally some concern about the rear locking up and possibly causing the truck to rotate. This method keeps the ABS so if the rear brakes do lock up, ABS will control the stop.

I tested this with panic stopping on an empty road. While I came close to ABS engaging it never did. 35" tires weigh quite a bit more than the factory spec tires. Braking performance with EBC Greens on Toyota rotors was and is nothing short of amazing. I now have no interest in removing the ABS pump.

BTW, I was forced to either replace the LSPV or get rid of it. Mine was starting to leak from the bottom. I tried to rebuild the LSPV but eventually gave up and threw it in the trash.

If you want some pictures, I can post some up.
 
Autozone. M10x1.0 if I remember correctly.

There are really two hardlines coming from the front to the LSPV and one line that goes out. The bottom line in the LSPV is the sense line, the top line is the pressure line. I removed the sense line and put the union between the pressure line and the output line to the rear brakes. At the T hear the master cylinder, I removed the other end of the sense line. I cut the sense line and removed the fitting. I welded up the hole in the fitting and reinstalled it into the T.

Now I have full line pressure to the front and the back with nothing to adjust. Others that have installed manual proportioning valves found that 50/50 works best. This makes sense because the front calipers are much larger than the rear. There was originally some concern about the rear locking up and possibly causing the truck to rotate. This method keeps the ABS so if the rear brakes do lock up, ABS will control the stop.

I tested this with panic stopping on an empty road. While I came close to ABS engaging it never did. 35" tires weigh quite a bit more than the factory spec tires. Braking performance with EBC Greens on Toyota rotors was and is nothing short of amazing. I now have no interest in removing the ABS pump.

BTW, I was forced to either replace the LSPV or get rid of it. Mine was starting to leak from the bottom. I tried to rebuild the LSPV but eventually gave up and threw it in the trash.

If you want some pictures, I can post some up.
Thanks for the response. I'm very visual. A picture would be appreciated. Thanks for the imput.
 
I dont think you will be able to space it out enough to make a difference, plus the new lift spring stiffness will not let the LSPV work as designed so I decided to cut the arm and make an adjustable rod holder out of a small heim joint, angle brackets, and a bolt.

Cutting the LSPV rod is not easy and you will burn through some blades doing it. I found it easiest to use a dremel with a carbide bit on the end. I have mine set around 90 percent maxed out.
IMG_7635.JPG
 

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